Question, I was cutting and laying out patterns on Refectix and noticed the crinkly noise it was making....

Does this go away when glued? Not sure I can handle the sound

Was thinking Dyna Mat, but that does nothing for heat, which is what i'm most concerned about in my vert.

Then I was thinking the ceramic Lizard Skin, but is coating all the wiring being fed to the back OK...

Just want to do it right

Thanks

 

I did "FatMat", with Reflectix on top of that. The crinkly sound does go away after carpet is installed. The carpet fit perfect right over it, but I had to cut some of the jute padding off the back in a couple spots... specifically the "footman" loops for the t-top straps in the back.... and the dimmer switch.

 

Thanks; beautiful interior. I'm getting there slowly

 

You don't need to 'glue' Reflectix in place. Use the adhesive backed aluminum foil tape to put pieces together and to hold it down, where needed.

The carpet will hold it all in place, but you need to use the [factory-type] rubber retainer plugs to hold the vertical surfaces of the carpet in place.

 

The lizard skin won't harm the wiring-

I too- am only concern w/ heat - as sidepipes and a conv sort of make sound proofing a moot point. I sprayed my interior w/ Lizardskin.

An on the exterior- I used Zero Clearance- to keep
the heat out of the cabin-

DSCN4826 by richardhayes454, on Flickr

DSCN4833 by richardhayes454, on Flickr



DSCN4075 by richardhayes454, on Flickr

 

I just finished the full upgrade with my'82 and couldn't be happier - and I am as particular and previously concerned about the bubble wrap noise from reflectix. But it worked out perfectly. And, as a side benefit it eliminated the old car smell from replacing the 33 year old, original floor pan insulation. Have a sharp pair of shears to cut the hushmat ( I used a knock-off) and Reflectix.
Whatever you do, wash the metal or fiberglass floor and lay down the hush mat, dyna-mat or whatever rubber/aluminum stick down product and use the wallpaper roller that comes with it to push it down firmly. It had a very positive effect on the NVH issues as countless C3 forum brethren have reported. So glad I did it - only on the floor pans and rear floor. You won't regret the effort - I spent 2 hours one evening.

Then, I glued - yes glued - the Reflectix in two layers on the floor pans and the flat surface in the storage area. I only glued one layer on the vertical panel in back. The 3M glue is weak enough to easily pull it up for adjustments/trimming, but it douses much of the noise; THEN tape around all the edges on the floorboard to affix and seal the reflectix. I didn't tape down the rear, only glued it. I used about 2/3 of a roll of the Reflectix aluminum tape after buying three rolls from The Home Depot. Two are going back. I used about a half roll of the Reflectix.

This approach seemed to be the identical height of the original underlayment insulation in and equally or better at insulating than new.

 

Thanks Guys! This is what I needed, just a little reassurance about what I was doing. This is truly one of the best forums I've ever belonged to.

Thanks again
Tom

 

I just got done using the vettenuts kit and adding the DEI firewall barrier inside the trans tunnel.

Hoping it helps

 

Thanks for posting the picture of our Insulation kit!

We are doing a 5 year anniversary sale in May on our kits. Watch for the For Sale Threads in the coming days.