Deganem

Hi, I'm looking for a C3 68-72 with a budget price.
I just looked at a 69 orange Monaco convertible.
It was a Numbers matching car (engine) ,original paint, and somewhat maintained. I figure It needed all new bushings, convertible top, water pump, carburetor, from I could see. No PS or PB.

Seller went down to 18k from 25. I didn't think 18k for a non-running car made sense. What do you think?

jnb5101

As Alan posted, a lot of things can be repaired on these cars (relatively) cheaply, but rust isn't one of them.

FLYNAVY30

As the guys above stated....do yourself a favor and read through my current situation and avoid some of my mistakes.....

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-she-sits.html

Easy Mike

That may be an oxymoron.

Good luck with the hunt.

Deganem

The frame looked pretty solid. All the door gaps were straight. The owner, a retired mechanic, seemed to care about the car, but unfortunately was getting old and could no longer maintain it (he lost interest). He jacked the car up from one side and showed me how the frame didn't blend or twist. He was leaving for 6 months and wanted to sell the car before leaving. Unfortunately, I found his ad only 5days before, so there was no time to bring it somewhere and get in on a lift, ultimately the reason why i backed away.
The car sold on eBay in 2011 for 15k.
18k three years later make sense? During this time he repaired/replaced seats, vaccum system.

FLYNAVY30

I don't want to seem negative, but seriously, look through my post....these cars can look like a million bucks, even from a casual look on the under side......until you know EXACTLY where to look, and what to look for. Ive gotten myself a VERY expensive education as of late and I would strongly suggest you do some research before moving forward with any of these cars, unless you're looking at something that has recently been restored, and the seller has full photos/documentation of the process.

Deganem

Thanks for the info. I did see some signs of rust around the vin number on the A pillar in a pic I took, after I left.
I guess I made an ok decision. Better not to rush.
It was very interesting since the colour is a one year only Monaco orange, and it was in very good shape.
How can I check the bird cage for rust without taking it apart?

FLYNAVY30

Just a heads up, the first signs of surface rust I noticed was in the windshield frame by the VIN plate. I think the best tool Ive found, on the suggestion of another forum member, is a video bore scope....check my thread later for some updated pics of the inside of my frame.....looks kinda like the bottom of a fish bowl....

Deganem

Thanks I did check your other post and saw the pictures. Sorry to hear what you got into, at that price I would want almost a perfect car. There is always a risk when buying a used car, more so one that is almost 50 years old.
How does one check those kick up points? Can it be easily done while inspecting a car, or do I need to bring it somewhere and get it done during a full inspection?

FLYNAVY30

If you get one of those LED illuminated bore scopes, you can actually get a good look at the kick ups even with the car on the ground and the wheels still on

c3_dk

Everyone that passed a 69 orange Monaco, is a bit stupid :- ))

ddawson

One of the best investments Iv'e made.

redvetracr

I have two words of wisdom for you, learn what they mean and how best to check it`s condition....bird & cage

Rescue Rogers

If you have a chance to view the car on seperate occasions you will notice more on the second or third trip. I travelled 5 hours to look at a car and bought it after 2 hours of picking at it, (the owner had a lift and I was under it for an hour) I didnt notice until I picked it up the top is on crooked. Rookie mistake on me

vettebuyer6369

While having a scope is great and putting the car on a lift is ideal, I've been buying Corvettes since the 70s and Ive been able to get a good feel for rust and or frame damage by inspecting a car visually as it sits.

In the last couple years Ive found a spliced frame rail, rotted out kickups and good sized holes drilled into the frame for add on side pipes, simply by laying on the ground with a bright flashlight and putting my hands on the corner of the kickup, up as far as you can reach, and completely down the side frame rail all the way to the front wheel well. You can also view frame bends due to impact in that area around the back of the front wheel.

Checking the body mounts are important and looking at the windshield frame is important, but I do not get scared away by rot in the windshieid frame necessarily. Most of these cars have some rot there due to poor design. It just makes me look harder at everything else.

That kickup point is the heart of the rust problems to me:

Deganem

Sorry I only know about these what I've read, so I checked the frame rail, and the ends near the rear wheels. These kick up points, is there any way to get a glance at them without using a scope?

Deganem

Thanks for the info Alan,
So if I understand, 18k for 69 with original orange Monaco paint (in very good condition), never restored and in drivable condition (hence needs considerable mechanical work) would still be a good price assuming the frame is in good shape?

I may still have a chance to get this car, as the buyer returns in the winter and I doubt he will get any other offers during this time.

I found an eBay auction that expired where he listed at 22k and he had no takers.

If these cars are worth more, than why is the seller having such a hard time finding a buyer? That was another point that made me think twice! (Maybe they see something I don't)

FLYNAVY30

I would highly recommend finding someone local to you who is knowledgeable about these cars and take him/her with you to inspect the car in person....both from the perspective of being knowledgeable of the car, and as an objective 3rd party when it comes to value....all things I wish I had taken into account. Good luck!

Deganem

I am planning on doing that!
Thanks again for your help

vettebuyer6369

Sorry, the slang I used ("kick up point") refers to the point where the frame rail "kicks up" over the rear wheel. That is the frame rail end near the rear wheel you mentioned. ( see the picture I posted - that's the end of the rail in front of the rear wheel...its completely rotted out. The end of the rocker panel is the silver part.)