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How do I fix the errant strands of fiberglass on my 1974 corvette. It has SMC body panels so I am not sure why fibers are showing. Do i need SMC resin and just go over it and sand or what??
Hi NS,
Welcome! First Post!
I wish your post was about a better situation!
Your pictures appear to show a body that was at one time stripped by media blasting, and done by someone who wasn't familiar with how that can be done without causing the damage to the fiberglass you're seeing.
A member here, DUB, will likely be along shortly and is qualified to give you advice on how to proceed.
Good Luck!
Hi NS,
Welcome! First Post!
I wish your post was about a better situation!
Your pictures appear to show a body that was at one time stripped by media blasting, and done by someone who wasn't familiar with how that can be done without causing the damage to the fiberglass you're seeing.
A member here, DUB, will likely be along shortly and is qualified to give you advice on how to proceed.
Good Luck!
Thank you, it was painted in the late 1990s by a Ford dealership go figure.
Although your photos were great and showed the fibers begin exposed. I am concerned about how much of the body is in this condition.
QUESTIONS:
1.) How many panels are effected by this???
2.) Has the areas with the exposed fibers been exposed to ANYTHING BAD....such as diesel truck exhaust, oily car exhaust, WD-40 or penetrating oil spray that was used in the garage, WATER.....basically anything that is oil based or water based????
3.) I can see the glistening of the fibers...which is normal when the SMC is exposed for a long time. But when you run your CLEAN hand across the fibers..can you feel them??? And do they seem to actually be loose and wanting to come off???
Although your photos were great and showed the fibers begin exposed. I am concerned about how much of the body is in this condition.
QUESTIONS:
1.) How many panels are effected by this???
2.) Has the areas with the exposed fibers been exposed to ANYTHING BAD....such as diesel truck exhaust, oily car exhaust, WD-40 or penetrating oil spray that was used in the garage, WATER.....basically anything that is oil based or water based????
3.) I can see the glistening of the fibers...which is normal when the SMC is exposed for a long time. But when you run your CLEAN hand across the fibers..can you feel them??? And do they seem to actually be loose and wanting to come off???
DUB
The panels affected are, the upper front drivers side above the wheel well that starts above the seam about 6 inches in front of the windshield and runs all the way to the driver side headlight area. Another area is on the upper front passenger side headlight area.
These areas have been exposed to water.
When you run your hand over it you experience painful fiberglass penetrating your skin lol, but they do not seem to be trying to come off.
Thank you so much for your response and any advice you can give.
Last edited by NastyStingray; 11-27-2015 at 07:53 PM.
I would have to apply a heat source to make sure that this area is free from moisture.
I then would carefully mask off the exposed fibered areas..and then sand the paint back and inch or two from the edges where the paint ends.
Remove the masking and carefully blow off the exposed fibers making sure I am using clean DRY air that is not full of water due to a cheap air compressor with NO water/oil filters/separators.
I would them tell you to contact WEST SYSTEMS and talk with them.
Refer you post on the Corvette forum to them so they can see what you have. They will be able to suggest the best product in their line that will work for you and the procedures to using and applying this product. I know what I would use...but they know their products better than anyone...and knowing that products can be improved or changed...they would be keeping pace with these products and know what to use. Even though I know what I would use...I would still call them and verify if what I was going to use is still the best product...or is there something they offer is better.
I would have to apply a heat source to make sure that this area is free from moisture.
I then would carefully mask off the exposed fibered areas..and then sand the paint back and inch or two from the edges where the paint ends.
Remove the masking and carefully blow off the exposed fibers making sure I am using clean DRY air that is not full of water due to a cheap air compressor with NO water/oil filters/separators.
I would them tell you to contact WEST SYSTEMS and talk with them.
Refer you post on the Corvette forum to them so they can see what you have. They will be able to suggest the best product in their line that will work for you and the procedures to using and applying this product. I know what I would use...but they know their products better than anyone...and knowing that products can be improved or changed...they would be keeping pace with these products and know what to use. Even though I know what I would use...I would still call them and verify if what I was going to use is still the best product...or is there something they offer is better.
Thank you for your help DUB. I was wondering if you could give me the name of the product you would use so I can refer to it while I talk to them. And another question my seams are showing what do you use to fill them? SMC Filler?
Feather Fill or Slick Sand by Evercoat. I've stripped and painted a lot of vettes. I block the fiberglass with 80 grit, apply 2 heavy coats of either product and block with 180 grit. Prime and block with 400 grit. The feather fill or slick sand are a polyester primer, it will hold down the fiberglass as it has resin in it
The panels affected are, the upper front drivers side above the wheel well that starts above the seam about 6 inches in front of the windshield and runs all the way to the driver side headlight area. Another area is on the upper front passenger side headlight area.
These areas have been exposed to water.
When you run your hand over it you experience painful fiberglass penetrating your skin lol, but they do not seem to be trying to come off.
Thank you so much for your response and any advice you can give.
I generally agree with DUBS advice. Prep the area as he recommends, getting out/off all of the moisture and contamination you can. I would then spray with several coats of SPI (Southern Polyurethane Inc) epoxy primer , http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com with the first coat reduced to enhance penetration of the damaged area. After several coats, allow to cure for a day and apply West Systems epoxy resin mixed with their 410 Microlight Fairing Filler. This will give you a spreadable mixture with the consistency of peanut butter. Sand after a day to cure (80 grit) and apply another coat to perfect the contours. Repeat until satisfied with contours then coat with additional SPI epoxy primer and (possibly) some additional high build primer.
Following this routine does the following:
1) The epoxy primer (especially reduced) will somewhat penetrate the damaged areas. The several coats will prevent any moisture and contaminants from rising from the damaged area into the repair.
2) This epoxy primer takes approx. 7 days to cure. The West Systems epoxy & 410 Filler will bond to the curing primer. This primer also seems to have very very good adhesion.
3) Putting additional epoxy primer over the repair further protects the repair and gives the paint something to adhere to.
4) If you put high build primer onto the epoxy top coat, it will give you an additional chance to further perfect the surface that will receive the paint.
If you need more info, go to the PAINT & BODYWORK section of the Corvette Forum where much of the above is discussed in detail
Feather Fill or Slick Sand by Evercoat. I've stripped and painted a lot of vettes. I block the fiberglass with 80 grit, apply 2 heavy coats of either product and block with 180 grit. Prime and block with 400 grit. The feather fill or slick sand are a polyester primer, it will hold down the fiberglass as it has resin in it
I have done it this way and it worked fine. You can also gel coat it.
I KNOW that many products can be used for numerous types of exposed fibers. My concern is in the viscosity of the applied product actually being able to get into the tight fibers....which depends on the volume of exposed fibers that are trying to be filled in again.
in cases like this...that is shown in the photos....I apply a resin and use a 'bondo' spreader to force the resin into the fibers....or I vacuum bag it.
There are different rates of exposed fibers that I have encountered....and each one is slightly different. In some cases the fiber must be ground out and a new layer of mat and resin applied due to excessive loss of structural integrity because it is that bad. SO...it depends on what method I use....because they are all NOT the same.
Originally Posted by 540 vette
You can also gel coat it.
I myself... would be hesitant on using gelcoat for this type or repair ON this type of body material. I know...I have written this before and it just does not make sense...but as of yet ...I still have not got a confirmation from a chemist WHY 'they' say that gelcoat can NOT be applied on an SMC body panel....when OTHER polyester based products CAN be applied. For me...I don't do it because I can not afford for it to fail and have to do a job all over again...especially when I have products that will do the job....so I err on the side of caution.
I generally agree with DUBS advice. Prep the area as he recommends, getting out/off all of the moisture and contamination you can. I would then spray with several coats of SPI (Southern Polyurethane Inc) epoxy primer , http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com with the first coat reduced to enhance penetration of the damaged area. After several coats, allow to cure for a day and apply West Systems epoxy resin mixed with their 410 Microlight Fairing Filler. This will give you a spreadable mixture with the consistency of peanut butter. Sand after a day to cure (80 grit) and apply another coat to perfect the contours. Repeat until satisfied with contours then coat with additional SPI epoxy primer and (possibly) some additional high build primer.
Following this routine does the following:
1) The epoxy primer (especially reduced) will somewhat penetrate the damaged areas. The several coats will prevent any moisture and contaminants from rising from the damaged area into the repair.
2) This epoxy primer takes approx. 7 days to cure. The West Systems epoxy & 410 Filler will bond to the curing primer. This primer also seems to have very very good adhesion.
3) Putting additional epoxy primer over the repair further protects the repair and gives the paint something to adhere to.
4) If you put high build primer onto the epoxy top coat, it will give you an additional chance to further perfect the surface that will receive the paint.
If you need more info, go to the PAINT & BODYWORK section of the Corvette Forum where much of the above is discussed in detail
Excellent instructions, I will keep this in mind. Thanks for taking time everyone to share your knowledge and help out a youngster lol.
11-06-2015, 06:05 PM
SMC fiberglass
