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i just spent the last hour fooling around trying to get the pictures fixed, yours will probaly look more correct than mine , but overall the chrome look on a bubble back is hard to beat.
i just spent the last hour fooling around trying to get the pictures fixed, yours will probaly look more correct than mine , but overall the chrome look on a bubble back is hard to beat.
I agree. I think potentially better looking than a factory 68-72. For me anyway I like the side view of a chromed bubble back better than a factory chrome sugar scoop back. From the rear it might be the other way around.
i just spent the last hour fooling around trying to get the pictures fixed, yours will probaly look more correct than mine , but overall the chrome look on a bubble back is hard to beat.
Who sells that clip/bumper and is it fiberglass ? Thanks
I got my new license plate bezel today which I need to finish off glassing in the exhaust filler panel and unfortunately its got to go back:
So annoyed!
I must be looking a lot older than I am. I'm 55 and I feel it but when I went to pick up the package at the post office today the girl brought it out and said "This shouldn't be too heavy for you. Do you want a cart or someone to help you with it?" The package was like 2' X 2' X 6" and weighed about 10 lbs. Jeez girl, I'm not 80! LOL!
Yes, I wonder how this even makes it out of the factory. There were some more minor scuffs on the other side I didn't notice right away that I could have lived with but this was really obvious, no way they could have missed it.
I returned it today and asked for an exchange. I'm pretty nervous that the one they exchange it for is going to be just as bad.
Well I guess I would have to check and see the areas of the mat and resin that are out on the white gelcoat...if you can get under it with a thin sharp tool and get the resin to 'pop' off. That would be my first test.
DUB
I got one corner to pop a bit and then it held and seemed like it might break the exhaust filler panel if I pulled any harder. I sanded away all the fiberglass on the backside of where it was loose and laminated the inside of the rear clip and exhaust filler panel after levelling the join.
Gel coat is resin in part so if you scuffed the shine off of it you should be fine with it sticking, as you see if you had kept pulling something would have broke not just popped free....
Thanks, I feel like I'm making some progress now. I don't think its going to take me one or two years to complete the rear half of the car.
I've never done fiberglass work before.
To give you a rough idea: I think I have about 20 total hours in cutting off the '76 tail light clip/fitting the "correct-style" replacement clip/bonding the replacement clip to the car.
I'm thinking another 20 hours (rookie speed) to fill in the low areas before I do any serious sanding to blend the seam (the PTSD/Family tragedies have caused the modification to be dragged out an additional 5 months).
I am sure you will have it ready in a matter of months rather than a year/You can do it!
I got one corner to pop a bit and then it held and seemed like it might break the exhaust filler panel if I pulled any harder. I sanded away all the fiberglass on the backside of where it was loose and laminated the inside of the rear clip and exhaust filler panel after levelling the join.
GREAT!!!! I can see on the backside as long as the fiberglass was sanded and prepped ...this lamination process will work out GREAT.
The reason I commented on the gelcoat side lamination you preformed is this. It has NOTHING to do with IF the resin will adhere to the gelcoat. It will... but I prefer to NOT have the gelcoat on the panel so I am laminating on prepped fiberglass/resin. The way I see it....I am going to have to do body work so what is the big deal in getting the gelcoat off....and I prefer NOT to take the chance.
What I am concerned about when I do work like this are the hidden air pockets that can often times lie just below the surface of the gelcoat. I HAVE experienced this NUMEROUS times and I am glad that I took a grinder to the gelcoat. These air pockets generally occur where there is a sharp roll or bend in the panel. AND if the panel has white gelcoat on it in stead of black gelcoat...it can be really hard to see air bubbles when the part is being laminated.
GREAT!!!! I can see on the backside as long as the fiberglass was sanded and prepped ...this lamination process will work out GREAT.
The reason I commented on the gelcoat side lamination you preformed is this. It has NOTHING to do with IF the resin will adhere to the gelcoat. It will... but I prefer to NOT have the gelcoat on the panel so I am laminating on prepped fiberglass/resin. The way I see it....I am going to have to do body work so what is the big deal in getting the gelcoat off....and I prefer NOT to take the chance.
What I am concerned about when I do work like this are the hidden air pockets that can often times lie just below the surface of the gelcoat. I HAVE experienced this NUMEROUS times and I am glad that I took a grinder to the gelcoat. These air pockets generally occur where there is a sharp roll or bend in the panel. AND if the panel has white gelcoat on it in stead of black gelcoat...it can be really hard to see air bubbles when the part is being laminated.
DUB
When I go back to the visible side I'll be "V"ing out the join lines past the gel coat and be adding more resin and matt to make a smooth transition from rear clip to exhaust filler panel.
Well, it looks like I'm done working on this indefinitely. The compressor gave out again today. While I was working I noticed I was running out of air, looked at the compressor and it was down to 50 lbs. Checked the breaker and it was flipped. Turned the breaker back on, the compressor pumped for abut 20 seconds and then flipped the breaker again and smoke was coming out of the electric motor. We had had repeated trouble with the head gasket blowing in one cylinder for no apparent reason and Hubby was looking for a head to replace this one, now it turns out we need the electric motor too.
When I go back to the visible side I'll be "V"ing out the join lines past the gel coat and be adding more resin and matt to make a smooth transition from rear clip to exhaust filler panel.
. That definitely works for me!
I am NOT wanting to come across.... as some people think I am (fill in whatever comment fits here).
I just comment in hopes that it can help someone....including yourself....because I would HATE to find that something went wrong... and IF I had commented on 'something'...that the problem could have possibly been stopped.
And knowing that you did not ask. But when you do the exterior laminating as you plan. I know I would grind that lamination down a little bit so I could apply a coat of VPA on my lamination.
This is due to the small air bubbles you may have in your lamination. If you leave these small air bubbles exposed due to being cut open and then try to apply a primer or whatever...these air pockets will cause your primer or 'whatever' to not fill in and actually cause the surface to have huge craters. THIS is WHY I skim coat VPA over my laminations....and I am good at it and I do not even trust ME.
AND YES...I am aware that you can take your finger or paint brush and smear primer in these pinholes/craters....but I prefer NOT to do that as a general practice.
07-25-2016, 06:25 PM
