How to rebuild your C3 Corvette Headlight Actuators VIDEO!
12-30-2015, 06:10 PM
#1
TheCorvetteBen
Thread Starter
How to rebuild your C3 Corvette Headlight Actuators VIDEO!
This video shows step by step how to rebuild your headlight actuators on your C3 Corvette. Feel free to share this with every C3 owner that you know!
Last edited by chstitans42; 12-30-2015 at 06:10 PM.
01-01-2016, 05:55 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
Good video. Wish I had it about 9 years ago when I rebuilt mine.
01-01-2016, 06:32 PM
#5
Team Owner
One thing NOT mentioned was probably the most important issue to deal with: shooting lots of PB Blaster (or other rust penetrant) onto those 4 nuts retaining the actuator. Those nuts are installed on some threaded studs which are spotwelded to the [sheet metal] actuator body. If you apply much torque to them, they will just snap off. 
Then, you have a much more involved repair to deal with.
Shoot penetrant on those nuts....liberally and several times over a couple of days. Then use a nut driver or small ratchet set to try removing them.
Then, you have a much more involved repair to deal with.Shoot penetrant on those nuts....liberally and several times over a couple of days. Then use a nut driver or small ratchet set to try removing them.
01-01-2016, 06:38 PM
#6
Race Director
One thing NOT mentioned was probably the most important issue to deal with: shooting lots of PB Blaster (or other rust penetrant) onto those 4 nuts retaining the actuator. Those nuts are installed on some threaded studs which are spotwelded to the [sheet metal] actuator body. If you apply much torque to them, they will just snap off. Then, you have a much more involved repair to deal with.
Shoot penetrant on those nuts....liberally and several times over a couple of days. Then use a nut driver or small ratchet set to try removing them.
Then, you have a much more involved repair to deal with.Shoot penetrant on those nuts....liberally and several times over a couple of days. Then use a nut driver or small ratchet set to try removing them.
Although
with applying a penetrating oil on these nuts if a person feels the need to do so. What I do not agree with is spraying a penetrating oil at this area and allowing it to spatter and get onto the backside of any fiberglass/SMC or drip down onto body panels. THAT is where I CRINGE.IF I need to use a penetrating oil...I use a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone and I apply it with a Q-tip so I can control it.
DUB
01-01-2016, 06:53 PM
#7
Team Owner
Sorry...I thought it went without saying that the penetrating oil needed to be put onto the nuts and studs.
Happy New Year!!
Happy New Year!!
01-01-2016, 07:10 PM
#8
Race Director
01-01-2016, 07:10 PM
#9
Race Director
I just watched the video that there is a MAJOR PROBLEM in what he shows.
When he is sliding the new vacuum seal onto the shaft. He DID NOT wrap tape around the threads. THIS IS IMPORTANT because the threads can damage the inner lip of the seal that goes DOWN onto the small groove you will see in the shaft.
ALSO...he did not MENTION that the small grove in the shaft needs to be clean so the vacuum seal can seal and fits into this groove. I can prove it because he did not say it and when you watch him move the shaft of the actuator at the end...the vacuum seal is sliding on the shaft (not good)....and it is the SAME EXACT SHAFT that he left marks in when he removed the eyelet when he had it in the vise. BAD MOVE!
Also...if he knew to remove the plastic bushing of the eyelet..you can dribble penetrating oil down into this hole to get to the end of the shaft....where he commented that his penetrating oil did not reach....and showed in the video being dry.
ALSO...when he was installing the rubber accordion boot seal....there is a hole in them so air can move in and out....and this HOLE needs to be positioned so water can not get in this boot seal...so position it so it points to the ground.
And lastly....when I do these...because many of the cars I work on have really nice paint. I shut the hood AFTER I have gotten the actuator ready to remove. Get under the car WITH the hood shut and get the actuator out and get it laying at the bottom of the car on the valance panel area. I then...carefully OPEN the hood and make sure that I can extend the hood to its fullest point and reach down and grab the actuator and get it out WITHOUT any paint being damaged.
DUB
When he is sliding the new vacuum seal onto the shaft. He DID NOT wrap tape around the threads. THIS IS IMPORTANT because the threads can damage the inner lip of the seal that goes DOWN onto the small groove you will see in the shaft.
ALSO...he did not MENTION that the small grove in the shaft needs to be clean so the vacuum seal can seal and fits into this groove. I can prove it because he did not say it and when you watch him move the shaft of the actuator at the end...the vacuum seal is sliding on the shaft (not good)....and it is the SAME EXACT SHAFT that he left marks in when he removed the eyelet when he had it in the vise. BAD MOVE!
Also...if he knew to remove the plastic bushing of the eyelet..you can dribble penetrating oil down into this hole to get to the end of the shaft....where he commented that his penetrating oil did not reach....and showed in the video being dry.
ALSO...when he was installing the rubber accordion boot seal....there is a hole in them so air can move in and out....and this HOLE needs to be positioned so water can not get in this boot seal...so position it so it points to the ground.
And lastly....when I do these...because many of the cars I work on have really nice paint. I shut the hood AFTER I have gotten the actuator ready to remove. Get under the car WITH the hood shut and get the actuator out and get it laying at the bottom of the car on the valance panel area. I then...carefully OPEN the hood and make sure that I can extend the hood to its fullest point and reach down and grab the actuator and get it out WITHOUT any paint being damaged.
DUB
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