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John's 1968 convertible restoration

 
Old 02-01-2016, 07:16 PM
  #21  
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Default Heat Barrier

Any thoughts on what heat barrier that's recommended? I remember my 73 getting hot on the feet.
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Old 02-01-2016, 07:30 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Duffeball View Post
Any thoughts on what heat barrier that's recommended? I remember my 73 getting hot on the feet.
ANYTHING but the jute stuff! Low-dollar HVAC aluminized wrap all the way up to Dynamat........and anything in between will do a much better job of noise control and heat deflection.

My floorboard AND firewall had 150*F "hotspots"........now they are down to ambient temperature plus 3*F all over the floorboard/firewall....wrapping the 140*F steering column is next!





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Old 02-01-2016, 07:33 PM
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Default Heat

Is yours low dollar hvac, dynomat, or something in between?

Last edited by Duffeball; 02-01-2016 at 07:34 PM.
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Old 02-01-2016, 09:33 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by ronarndt View Post
RR- "But everything else works sometimes." So- the little door on your ash tray was OK? RA
Ya. It opens, AND closes. Hahaha
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Old 02-08-2016, 12:41 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Duffeball View Post
Is yours low dollar hvac, dynomat, or something in between?
My rookie suggestion: If you have limited funds, use an infrared gun and mark the hottest spots.....install dynamat or the equivalent on those spots.......use HVAC wrap everywhere else.
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Old 02-10-2016, 06:32 PM
  #26  
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Default F-41

Can somebody smarter than me tell me if f41 was an option for all cars in 1968. I think I read that in 67 it was an option on the high performance big block cars. Am I wrong thinking that was the same for 1968?
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Old 02-11-2016, 08:30 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Duffeball View Post
...Looks like F-41 stuff. My question is, was this even an option for my car? I believe it to be a 390 horse 427...
Originally Posted by Duffeball View Post
...Can somebody smarter than me tell me if f41 was an option for all cars in 1968...
The Corvette Black Book is a handy thing to have. All 68 big block cars got the rear sway bar as part of the big block options package.

Separately, the F-41 package was available.
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Old 02-11-2016, 09:12 AM
  #28  
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F-41 was a separate option installed on 1,758 68's...mine included! but without the build sheet, nothing's carved in stone.
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Old 02-11-2016, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by gungatim View Post
F-41 was a separate option installed on 1,758 68's...mine included! but without the build sheet, nothing's carved in stone.
So it wasn't necessarily engine specific. I'm just trying to decide if I need to hold on to it for the sake of holding it or do I need to just get rid of it and go to a normal 9 leaf setup. I hope ti stumble across some documentation some day.
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Old 02-11-2016, 10:16 AM
  #30  
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Rookie suggestion (that others probably stated).........
If the car has most of it's original parts, box up the original parts that you remove and save them if you upgrade anything.
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Old 02-11-2016, 10:36 AM
  #31  
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That's the quandry. Tough saying what was replaced and whats original. Came with a big block intake, but from a 69'. It has had at least four owners. The vin on the body matches the frame which makes me happy. I might box up the F-41 springs. (If that's what they really are)
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Old 02-12-2016, 12:10 AM
  #32  
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Ohhh well.....box it anyway......
If you ever sell the car the new owner might be glad to get "old stuff" even if it might not be assembly line parts.
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Old 02-12-2016, 06:59 PM
  #33  
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Welcome to the 68 owner's club, John. I have had my 68 coupe for 43 1/2 years, so I can help some! Everything that could break has broken at least once on my beater, lol.
With that stiff rear spring, check to see if your original rear end (differential) cover is cracked on the bottom. Replacement ones are made a lot stronger and do not crack. Lou.
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Old 02-12-2016, 10:22 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Duffeball View Post

...

... Any recommendations on what to do before I pull the body in general? Or is it just do what you can, when you can?

...
Soak every nut and bolt with PB Blaster.

Take LOTS of pictures. Same them on duplicated CDs.

Get a box of Ziplock bags, a pad of Post It notes, and a pen that doesn't smear.

Take a lot of pictures of every area before taking it apart, especially bolt heads.

Take them out, put in bag, and write a good description on the Post It. Put that inside the bag, too.

A year from now, or 20, you will really appreciate how smart you were.

Last edited by Procrastination Racing; 02-12-2016 at 10:23 PM.
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Old 02-13-2016, 03:29 PM
  #35  
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Default "Corvette Denver"



Was there a specialty shop dealing with corvettes in denver? I found this taped on the back of both speakers in the kick panels. Struck me as odd.
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Old 02-13-2016, 05:07 PM
  #36  
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I'm happy with the progress so far. Things are where I expect them to be and they're coming apart easily. I am bagging and tagging.

I'm really happy with the bird cage so far.




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Old 02-13-2016, 05:08 PM
  #37  
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Old 02-13-2016, 08:27 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Procrastination Racing View Post
Soak every nut and bolt with PB Blaster.

Take LOTS of pictures. Same them on duplicated CDs.

Get a box of Ziplock bags, a pad of Post It notes, and a pen that doesn't smear.

Take a lot of pictures of every area before taking it apart, especially bolt heads.

Take them out, put in bag, and write a good description on the Post It. Put that inside the bag, too.

A year from now, or 20, you will really appreciate how smart you were.
This is excellent advice. Number the bags too and make a list to go with it. It will help and let you know how many bags you should have when you go looking to put it together.
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Old 02-13-2016, 08:28 PM
  #39  
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Your car looks excellent. Congratulations
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Old 02-13-2016, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers View Post
Your car looks excellent. Congratulations
Thank you! It's just one less thing to worry about.
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