Target's 1975 Corvette
Some backstory. I bought my '67 Mustang in June of 2014 as my first car and I've completed an engine and drivetrain swap, added disc brakes, rebuilt the suspension, learned to weld, done all of the metalwork, and I'm in the process of doing the bodywork. It's a slow process but she'll get there.
Unfortunately, my savings and budget compared to the cost of completion are not equal, and I know I may make some enemies saying this, but the plan with the Corvette is to get her running and sell her as quickly as possible while still doing the job right.
What I'm thinking of doing is changing all of the fluids, making sure the gas tank is clean, and buying several fuel filters to run before the carburetor to make sure it's not horribly gunked up before actually trying to start her. Before selling the car, I'm going to find a set of used front tires (the current set are bald and cracked but the back is okay), replacing the bumper cover, and replacing the seals in the T-tops so it doesn't leak. I want the next owner to hit the ground running.
Here's the issue. I have a pretty decent knowledge of old motors without SMOG equipment but this '75 is really throwing me for a loop and I'm not sure if the steps I'm planning on taking are the correct ones. And that, little man, is why I come to you fine folks.
Any advice regarding my plan of attack would be superb! Here are some pics of her.
Last edited by Target; Mar 22, 2016 at 10:13 PM.
Is part of the shroud missing around the mechanical fan? If so, the engine will run hot.
If you can make the car drivable/safe/clear title.....let the next owner work out the emission system.
Is part of the shroud missing around the mechanical fan? If so, the engine will run hot.
If you can make the car drivable/safe/clear title.....let the next owner work out the emission system.
The emission system looks to be complete but I'm expected some vacuum issues from the old rubber hoses and that's where it gets complicated. She does have a clean title at least.
I'm actually having trouble pinpointing the location of the fuel filter...
Last edited by Target; Mar 22, 2016 at 10:44 PM.
The emission system looks to be complete but I'm expected some vacuum issues from the old rubber hoses and that's where it gets complicated. She does have a clean title at least.
I'm actually having trouble pinpointing the location of the fuel filter...
The fuel filter should be built into the carb where the fuel line connects if you still have a Rochester Quadrajet carb.


What's up with the upper radiator hose? Looks like it is wrapped up in electrical tape. Maybe new hoses to prevent an "oops" while trying to sell it.
Wish I could find a parts car for what you paid for this one.
Good luck,
Tom





Welcome to the forum, first make it go- a good tune up, plugs wires, fresh gas, then make it stop- brakes on these cars if it has been sitting tend to leak. If your real plan is to sell it to finance the Mustang build do as little as possible. For what you paid you can probably get a few thousand out of her. How is the condition of the frame? Be VERY careful though, because once you get it driving good it will be very hard to wipe the smile off your face and let her go.
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P.S. get used tires for all 4 corners. If a tire blows and destroys you fiberglass its gonna be worth a lot less.
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Mar 23, 2016 at 09:20 AM.
And then this... thing? I honestly don't know what it is. But it's split in half and it appears to go together. I'll see what I can uncover in the shop manual but it's not easy when I don't know the part name.
The fuel filter should be built into the carb where the fuel line connects if you still have a Rochester Quadrajet carb.
And it's got the Rochester Quadrajet. The filter is probably located in the front where it says filter...
What's up with the upper radiator hose? Looks like it is wrapped up in electrical tape. Maybe new hoses to prevent an "oops" while trying to sell it.
That hose does seem a bit odd. I'll address that as well.
Welcome to the forum, first make it go- a good tune up, plugs wires, fresh gas, then make it stop- brakes on these cars if it has been sitting tend to leak. If your real plan is to sell it to finance the Mustang build do as little as possible. For what you paid you can probably get a few thousand out of her. How is the condition of the frame? Be VERY careful though, because once you get it driving good it will be very hard to wipe the smile off your face and let her go.
The frame is solid. Absolutely no rust as far as I can tell. I haven't had the car on a lift but from crawling on my hands and news and plenty of experience with Craigslist rust buckets, she looks solid.
P.S. get used tires for all 4 corners. If a tire blows and destroys you fiberglass its gonna be worth a lot less.
That's pretty much what I was planning barring the mystery oil and using a breaker bar. Hopefully the carb doesn't need to be rebuild... I know it's not hard but it's an astronomical pain. Between 5 and 8k is definitely where I'm shooting for. Hoping to be in the car for less than $2k (I'm $1130 into it because of towing and fines).
I think the front tires are ~10 years old but the back are more like 5 due to someone having fun doing burnouts. I'll see what used tires will run. I don't want to spend $500 on tires but I also don't want the next owner to die on their way home.
I never said i was going to pull the SMOG system. I meant that the SMOG equipment is just an extra variable that I'm not familiar with. If I were planning on keeping it, I'd probably take it off because the engine compartment would be cleaner but I want to leave the ball in the next owner's court. Sorry for the confusion.
Last edited by Target; Mar 23, 2016 at 05:09 PM.





Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Mar 23, 2016 at 06:39 PM.













