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Old Mar 22, 2016 | 10:06 PM
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Default Target's 1975 Corvette

Hello! I recently had the opportunity to purchase a rust free '75 Corvette T-top car with a 350ci and 4 speed automatic for $800. My baby is a 1967 Mustang (sorry?) but this was an opportunity I couldn't say no to. The car is extremely solid and complete with 59,000 original miles, but hasn't run in 3 years. The previous owner was over his midlife crisis and had lost his license, which is why I got it for the price I did.

Some backstory. I bought my '67 Mustang in June of 2014 as my first car and I've completed an engine and drivetrain swap, added disc brakes, rebuilt the suspension, learned to weld, done all of the metalwork, and I'm in the process of doing the bodywork. It's a slow process but she'll get there.

Unfortunately, my savings and budget compared to the cost of completion are not equal, and I know I may make some enemies saying this, but the plan with the Corvette is to get her running and sell her as quickly as possible while still doing the job right.

What I'm thinking of doing is changing all of the fluids, making sure the gas tank is clean, and buying several fuel filters to run before the carburetor to make sure it's not horribly gunked up before actually trying to start her. Before selling the car, I'm going to find a set of used front tires (the current set are bald and cracked but the back is okay), replacing the bumper cover, and replacing the seals in the T-tops so it doesn't leak. I want the next owner to hit the ground running.

Here's the issue. I have a pretty decent knowledge of old motors without SMOG equipment but this '75 is really throwing me for a loop and I'm not sure if the steps I'm planning on taking are the correct ones. And that, little man, is why I come to you fine folks.

Any advice regarding my plan of attack would be superb! Here are some pics of her.

















Last edited by Target; Mar 22, 2016 at 10:13 PM.
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Old Mar 22, 2016 | 10:23 PM
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Rookie suggestion: Go for it....stick with your repair list........the car could use a new dedicated owner to rebuild/restore it.

Is part of the shroud missing around the mechanical fan? If so, the engine will run hot.

If you can make the car drivable/safe/clear title.....let the next owner work out the emission system.
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Old Mar 22, 2016 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by doorgunner
Rookie suggestion: Go for it....stick with your repair list........the car could use a new dedicated owner to rebuild/restore it.

Is part of the shroud missing around the mechanical fan? If so, the engine will run hot.

If you can make the car drivable/safe/clear title.....let the next owner work out the emission system.
Not to my knowledge. There's definitely a shroud there and it's not cut. Now, is it the right shroud? I couldn't tell you. I'll take some pictures tomorrow when it's light out.

The emission system looks to be complete but I'm expected some vacuum issues from the old rubber hoses and that's where it gets complicated. She does have a clean title at least.

I'm actually having trouble pinpointing the location of the fuel filter...

Last edited by Target; Mar 22, 2016 at 10:44 PM.
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Old Mar 22, 2016 | 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Target
Not to my knowledge. There's definitely a shroud there and it's not cut. Now, is it the right shroud? I couldn't tell you. I'll take some pictures tomorrow when it's light out.

The emission system looks to be complete but I'm expected some vacuum issues from the old rubber hoses and that's where it gets complicated. She does have a clean title at least.

I'm actually having trouble pinpointing the location of the fuel filter...
The radiator shroud should be part number 339175, which should be at the top driver's side of the shroud. My guess from the picture is that you are missing the shroud extension, part number 331870. They run from $100 for repros to $150 for originals. I've actually got a few originals laying around.

The fuel filter should be built into the carb where the fuel line connects if you still have a Rochester Quadrajet carb.
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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 12:31 AM
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She looks and sounds a lot like my '75 did when I found it....but you paid much less than me! Get her running and you should be able to make a nice profit.
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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 01:37 AM
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As it's a 75 and in California, should be smog exempt. Disconnect any rotten vacation lines and plug at the source. Save all the stuff in case the future owner wants it. This'll help with getting it running better. For what you've doing, don't worry about the emission system now.

What's up with the upper radiator hose? Looks like it is wrapped up in electrical tape. Maybe new hoses to prevent an "oops" while trying to sell it.

Wish I could find a parts car for what you paid for this one.

Good luck,
Tom
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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 07:03 AM
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Target

Welcome to the forum, first make it go- a good tune up, plugs wires, fresh gas, then make it stop- brakes on these cars if it has been sitting tend to leak. If your real plan is to sell it to finance the Mustang build do as little as possible. For what you paid you can probably get a few thousand out of her. How is the condition of the frame? Be VERY careful though, because once you get it driving good it will be very hard to wipe the smile off your face and let her go.
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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 09:11 AM
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Welcome, and as others have suggested..get it in running/driving condition (the basics, don't fall in love with it, or flipping it for a profit goes away).
Good luck.
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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 09:18 AM
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Welcome aboard. I had a 66 mustang 289. The vette is sooooo much nicer, too bad you cant keep both. Your plan sounds good. I would flush the gas lines, replace the oil and make sure the oil pump is working. You can pull the distributor and buy the oil pump rod that goes on a drill and get the oil flowing through the engine. You could also pull the plugs and spray the cylinders with mystery oil to get the rings freed up. Then put the distributor in but leave out the plugs and use a breaker bar to see if it will turn, if so try to get it to turn with the starter. Atleast you will know if the ignition system is working. Then the basic tuneup and fire it up. I would think $5000-$8000 running would be a decent profit for you. Good luck

P.S. get used tires for all 4 corners. If a tire blows and destroys you fiberglass its gonna be worth a lot less.

Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Mar 23, 2016 at 09:20 AM.
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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 11:34 AM
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Congrats on the 75. Before pulling parts, why not do your homework and learn about SMOG systems? The systems were relatively simple in the 70s. It's not rocket science.

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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 05:06 PM
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I broke out the magnifying glass and did some more detective work. These two wires, orange and green, appear to have melted. I'm not a Corvette expert but I don't think that's up to factory specifications.



And then this... thing? I honestly don't know what it is. But it's split in half and it appears to go together. I'll see what I can uncover in the shop manual but it's not easy when I don't know the part name.




Originally Posted by chazde3
The radiator shroud should be part number 339175, which should be at the top driver's side of the shroud. My guess from the picture is that you are missing the shroud extension, part number 331870. They run from $100 for repros to $150 for originals. I've actually got a few originals laying around.

The fuel filter should be built into the carb where the fuel line connects if you still have a Rochester Quadrajet carb.
I'd say you're right. Part number 339175 is indeed intact and there's something missing. I'll add that to the list of things to track down.



And it's got the Rochester Quadrajet. The filter is probably located in the front where it says filter...




Originally Posted by chevygod
As it's a 75 and in California, should be smog exempt. Disconnect any rotten vacation lines and plug at the source. Save all the stuff in case the future owner wants it. This'll help with getting it running better. For what you've doing, don't worry about the emission system now.

What's up with the upper radiator hose? Looks like it is wrapped up in electrical tape. Maybe new hoses to prevent an "oops" while trying to sell it.
For all I know, the SMOG stuff could be perfectly fine. Won't know till I start the car. If it's causing a lot of issues then I'll seriously consider throwing it in a box and giving it to the next owner.

That hose does seem a bit odd. I'll address that as well.

Originally Posted by midigike
Target

Welcome to the forum, first make it go- a good tune up, plugs wires, fresh gas, then make it stop- brakes on these cars if it has been sitting tend to leak. If your real plan is to sell it to finance the Mustang build do as little as possible. For what you paid you can probably get a few thousand out of her. How is the condition of the frame? Be VERY careful though, because once you get it driving good it will be very hard to wipe the smile off your face and let her go.
I was taught to make her stop and THEN make her go.

The frame is solid. Absolutely no rust as far as I can tell. I haven't had the car on a lift but from crawling on my hands and news and plenty of experience with Craigslist rust buckets, she looks solid.

Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
Welcome aboard. I had a 66 mustang 289. The vette is sooooo much nicer, too bad you cant keep both. Your plan sounds good. I would flush the gas lines, replace the oil and make sure the oil pump is working. You can pull the distributor and buy the oil pump rod that goes on a drill and get the oil flowing through the engine. You could also pull the plugs and spray the cylinders with mystery oil to get the rings freed up. Then put the distributor in but leave out the plugs and use a breaker bar to see if it will turn, if so try to get it to turn with the starter. Atleast you will know if the ignition system is working. Then the basic tuneup and fire it up. I would think $5000-$8000 running would be a decent profit for you. Good luck

P.S. get used tires for all 4 corners. If a tire blows and destroys you fiberglass its gonna be worth a lot less.
I know an 8 year newer sports car is going to be significantly nicer than a '60s pony car, but my heart is with the Mustang.

That's pretty much what I was planning barring the mystery oil and using a breaker bar. Hopefully the carb doesn't need to be rebuild... I know it's not hard but it's an astronomical pain. Between 5 and 8k is definitely where I'm shooting for. Hoping to be in the car for less than $2k (I'm $1130 into it because of towing and fines).

I think the front tires are ~10 years old but the back are more like 5 due to someone having fun doing burnouts. I'll see what used tires will run. I don't want to spend $500 on tires but I also don't want the next owner to die on their way home.

Originally Posted by Easy Mike
Congrats on the 75. Before pulling parts, why not do your homework and learn about SMOG systems? The systems were relatively simple in the 70s. It's not rocket science.

I never said i was going to pull the SMOG system. I meant that the SMOG equipment is just an extra variable that I'm not familiar with. If I were planning on keeping it, I'd probably take it off because the engine compartment would be cleaner but I want to leave the ball in the next owner's court. Sorry for the confusion.

Last edited by Target; Mar 23, 2016 at 05:09 PM.
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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 06:08 PM
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The white thing thats on the 2 hoses that split and looks like 2 funnels was a filter for your vacuum system

Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Mar 23, 2016 at 06:39 PM.
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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 06:08 PM
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The white plastic piece that is broken is a Vacuum filter, see below.

Last edited by Maymyvetteliveforevr; Mar 23, 2016 at 06:09 PM.
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