Strut rod removal
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 331
Likes: 29
From: Moyock NC
Strut rod removal
I am in the process of replacing the trailing arm bushings and I am unable to get the shock Mount bracket off. I am more than likely going to have to remove the strut rods from the differential so I can remove the trailing arms. I think it would be easier to remove the shock mount with it off the car. The question I have is do I need to remove the leaf spring in order to get the strut rods off? The bolt is installed with the bolt head on the spring side and from looking it doesn't appear as if there is enough room to get the bolt out with the spring there.
I am not sure if that was a matter of the previous owner installing it backwards or if that is factory. I know the trailing arm bolt was in backwards so it wouldn't surprise me if that was the previous owner's handy work.
I am not sure if that was a matter of the previous owner installing it backwards or if that is factory. I know the trailing arm bolt was in backwards so it wouldn't surprise me if that was the previous owner's handy work.
Last edited by 80-Vette; Apr 14, 2016 at 06:44 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
YES...the rear spring needs to be removed to get the concentric bolts for your strut rods out at the differential due to how they were installed.
You are aware that there is a special tool to aid in removing the lower shock bolt at the trailing arm so the strut rod can be released from it???
And hopefully you are aware that there is a special staking tool for the trialing arm bushings IF you are using the rubber design trailing arm bushing??? The rubber trailing arm bushing need to be compressed and the inner sleeve staked to hold them in.
I have encountered numerous lower shock bolts that the inner sleeve of the strut rod bushing at that area is seized onto the lower shock mount bolt....so...trying to use the special tool and NOT knowing when to stop beating on it...can cause you to break the bearing support housing.
DUB
You are aware that there is a special tool to aid in removing the lower shock bolt at the trailing arm so the strut rod can be released from it???
And hopefully you are aware that there is a special staking tool for the trialing arm bushings IF you are using the rubber design trailing arm bushing??? The rubber trailing arm bushing need to be compressed and the inner sleeve staked to hold them in.
I have encountered numerous lower shock bolts that the inner sleeve of the strut rod bushing at that area is seized onto the lower shock mount bolt....so...trying to use the special tool and NOT knowing when to stop beating on it...can cause you to break the bearing support housing.
DUB
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,507
Likes: 114
From: St. Louis Mo
YES...the rear spring needs to be removed to get the concentric bolts for your strut rods out at the differential due to how they were installed.
You are aware that there is a special tool to aid in removing the lower shock bolt at the trailing arm so the strut rod can be released from it???
And hopefully you are aware that there is a special staking tool for the trialing arm bushings IF you are using the rubber design trailing arm bushing??? The rubber trailing arm bushing need to be compressed and the inner sleeve staked to hold them in.
I have encountered numerous lower shock bolts that the inner sleeve of the strut rod bushing at that area is seized onto the lower shock mount bolt....so...trying to use the special tool and NOT knowing when to stop beating on it...can cause you to break the bearing support housing.
DUB
You are aware that there is a special tool to aid in removing the lower shock bolt at the trailing arm so the strut rod can be released from it???
And hopefully you are aware that there is a special staking tool for the trialing arm bushings IF you are using the rubber design trailing arm bushing??? The rubber trailing arm bushing need to be compressed and the inner sleeve staked to hold them in.
I have encountered numerous lower shock bolts that the inner sleeve of the strut rod bushing at that area is seized onto the lower shock mount bolt....so...trying to use the special tool and NOT knowing when to stop beating on it...can cause you to break the bearing support housing.
DUB
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 331
Likes: 29
From: Moyock NC
I do know there is a tool for this, it is basically a pipe end cap. I am using a nut on the shaft but not having much luck. I also know there is a staking tool for the new bushings and yes I have one.
I tried looking for the shaft shock mount removal tool at Harbor Freight Item # SU-824A but was unable to find it online.
I tried looking for the shaft shock mount removal tool at Harbor Freight Item # SU-824A but was unable to find it online.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,507
Likes: 114
From: St. Louis Mo
I do know there is a tool for this, it is basically a pipe end cap. I am using a nut on the shaft but not having much luck. I also know there is a staking tool for the new bushings and yes I have one.
I tried looking for the shaft shock mount removal tool at Harbor Freight Item # SU-824A but was unable to find it online.
I tried looking for the shaft shock mount removal tool at Harbor Freight Item # SU-824A but was unable to find it online.
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
You can buy a couple of nuts and screw them on instead of buying a knock out tool. The knock out tool won't amplify any force struck by a hammer. I just knocked mine out and only used the castle nut screwed on backwards and flush with the end of the shock mount. I've found that a normal hammer doesn't have enough weight so I use a short handle sledge with a couple pounds of weight. Don't be afraid to give it a few hard wacks. If the spindle is gonna break, its gonna break. Or, get a sawzall and cut the shock mount. Cheaper than a new spindle.
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,213
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
You can remove the TA arm with the strut rod still in place. You may be better off then by taking it to a machine shop and pressing it out.
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Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Charlotte NC
I personally would not use the tool that fits onto an air hammer. I have good air hammers but none of them have the punch that I can give it with a good hammer blow. But...if it works for someone...I am glad. I like my threaded on tool that seats against the end of the bolt so I do not damage the threads or mushroom the end of the bolt due to it being soft.
I seriously doubt that using a vise and gear puller is going to work. Keep in mind that the bolt shaft can seize onto the inner sleeve of the bushing and if you are not careful...you can snap the ear off the bearing support housing. I have only snapped an ear off ONE time in 30+ years and I have dealt with hundreds of these strut rods.....literally. So I know after a few good whacks IF I do not see movement I stop and go to plan B.
DUB
I seriously doubt that using a vise and gear puller is going to work. Keep in mind that the bolt shaft can seize onto the inner sleeve of the bushing and if you are not careful...you can snap the ear off the bearing support housing. I have only snapped an ear off ONE time in 30+ years and I have dealt with hundreds of these strut rods.....literally. So I know after a few good whacks IF I do not see movement I stop and go to plan B.
DUB
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 331
Likes: 29
From: Moyock NC
I don't think anyone was talking about using an air hammer. Not sure where that came from. I have not hit it with a mini sledge but I have hit it hard enough to split a 2x4. What is your plan B? The vice and gear puller was my plan B.
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Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
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Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
The tool is made to go onto an air hammer.
http://www.zip-corvette.com/catalogs...cat=&q=su-824a
This is the tool I use.
http://www.vbandp.com/auto-parts/mis...ol-detail.html
AND YES.....it seems kinda weird to go through all of this and possibly have to replace the lower shock bolt anyway due to the splines being flattened out and not good.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; Apr 16, 2016 at 05:52 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 331
Likes: 29
From: Moyock NC
Ah I didn't look at the zip tool so when you mentioned air hammer I was thinking you needed to put the pipe down. 
Just kidding.. Alright plan B is now to get the tool or to speed things along I could just get a pipe cap at Lowes.
Just kidding.. Alright plan B is now to get the tool or to speed things along I could just get a pipe cap at Lowes.