FastLane73

Almost ready for carpet and heat barrier installation. Wondering what to use to tack it down. These are some pretty generic and basic questions so apologies first! Any input on the following?

1. I have been told to use 3M 99 Spray Adhesive since it is pretty high strength stuff, but also been told to use some pretty strong carpet tape. Any preference?

2. Do I glue or tape down the heat barrier, and then glue down the carpet on top of the heat barrier? Seems logical, i guess.
Thanks
Ted

0Willcox Corvette

Ted-

Very little glue is needed to install the correct carpet and padding in your car. In the fronts we basically us nothing.... unless we have an area that isn't laying down just right and normally if that happens you can heat the backside with a heat gun(blow drier for you) and get it to lay down.

The rear riser will need a bit of glue if you don't use the three plugs that are supposed to hold it in place... If you have the plugs then just a light spray will do. The 3M fast tack trim adhesive will do you just fine if you treat it like contact cement, spray it on the part and the car and allow it to dry then spray it one more time and place it down.

We use a commercial glue when we do need it called "Wildwood" and we spray it out of a spray gun but you'll do just fine with the fast tack.

Just remember, trim from the backside. . . test fit everything... If you cut the carpet in the front of the adjusters you do it in a U fashion and in the rear you burn the holes (heat an awe and poke it through) to prevent you from catching the carpet with the screw.


You might go to our facebook page where we documented multiple carpet installations too....

Willcox

Alan 71

Hi Ted,
You don't say what year your car is.
Originally in 68-72 cars very little adhesive was used to install the 2 front carpets since they're held in their front by rubber plugs, on one side by the sill plate, and the other side by the 2 consoles.
The piece of carpet on the seat bulkhead is slipped under the 3 compartment door frame along with just a little adhesive on the bulkhead itself.
Both of the rear wheel-well pieces had adhesive to help hold them in place.
The rear compartment bulkhead/floor piece has rubber plugs to help hold it in place on the bulkhead and the floor section will just lay in place.
You'll likely find it'll take lot's of fitting and VERY CAUTIOUS cutting and trimming.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

Added: Nice description Willcox!!!!

DUB

I do not glue down the carpet UNLESS it is in the areas where it is supposed to be glued.

The front carpet just go in and NO GLUE...this is so IF they need to be removed...they will come out.

The same goes for your heat barrier material. Not knowing how much you are putting in..the front floorboard areas do not get glued so they can be pulled out if needed. The side of the transmission tunnel areas I would bond...tape or glue.

I am NOT a fan of the entire carpet being glued down....because I work on these Corvettes and the Corvettes that have the carpet glued down..and I have to remove the carpet to dry it out due to getting soaked or get to where something custom was installed and THEN the carpet GLUED over it...just makes me go crazy.

DUB

Mooser

I'll only add a small bit to everything above (again, don't know what heat / sound deadener you're using)

As with everyone else, sparingly use the glue only where needed.

I do use 3M windo-weld in roll form. I use 1/4" diameter (if I can get it, 3/8 if I can't)
I cut strips and place it into inside corners like those along the rear quarter to floor corners or the front foot well edges. Once you work the carpet into the corner, the bead flattens out and it sticks very well, holds the carpet in the corners tightly and yet if you do need to, you can just use a firm and steady pull on the carpet and it will let go.
At least it does on the newer replacement carpet with the smooth plastic backing

And if my last carpet from CA was any example, be very careful placing and trimming. One side of the front carpets had an extra 3" under the parking brake console side, the other only about 1/2" Luckily I dry fitted everything before cutting the seat bolt holes.
M

Yellow1980

Here is a link to an article on the installation I did on my '80:

http://www.californiastingrays.us/Ar...ts/Carpet.html

DonnieP73

If you have a 73, this is my 73 with new carpet and I used no glue
at all. On the insulation, I used the aluminum tape to hold the seams
and that is all. No glue on any carpet and it all has remained in place.

Insulation:









The carpet:








Donnie

FastLane73

Thanks everyone. And yes the car is a 73. Looks like just a little here and there. Much appreciated. car gets out back together next week! Hopefully.

FastLane73

DAY 1 UPDATE: Disaster.
Very disappointed at the fit. I know i had to do some trimming but I can't even get the voices into location to figure out where to start trimming. Day 1...wasted.

Andy Tuttle

There are days like that. We have all been there. Take a deep breathe, step back and hit it again tomorrow. Things will go better sooner or later!

DonnieP73

If you have your old carpet, you can use it as a guide. I got ACC carpet
from Willcox and it needed very little trimming. I would advise to began
at the rear and work to the storage bins. The wheel well pieces are a
right and left. Use the seat belt mount and the panel mount to help you.



I next installed the center piece to the compartment. the compartment
top will help hold down the center piece and the piece that goes over
the fall behind the seats.





When you finish the rear, then work on the front. With the hand brake
console and the panel under the radio removed, this will give you an
idea of how much to trim and still be under the consoles.
You will have to remove the kick panel and use it as a guide on the
sides.





Don't have any photos of the carpet trimmed, but maybe this will
give you some help.

Donnie

DUB

The carpet is not going to fall into place...and I know you know this..and YES...it can be a bit confusing on which piece goes where in the rear of the car.

I will 'say' from my experiences...that the rear of the car is the worst. And this is mainly due to the rear storage compartment frame and doors. Getting the main frame and doors to go in and work without binding is where I spend a lot of time.

And do not be fooled that the person who glued on the jute on the backside of ALL of the carpet pieces that have it.....actually did it correctly.

DUB

Mooser

Sound about right. My adding sound deadener and heat barrier didn't help the fit either.

I started with the rear side parts. There was a definite corner on the new carpet where the wheel-well came down and went flat where my shoulder belts bolted. That was the only "known" area on the carpet.
I used the windo-weld in that corner and played with the carpet forward/backward to get the most visible area, front and front corner of the wheel well to fit the best I could. Then worked up/back from there. Did have to stuff some extra padding here and there to smooth it out but it's a PIA fiddly job.




M

Ricks55

You need to check the heater core box and all the doors on it and their seals, there is also supposed to be a piece of rubber or foam on the spot where the heater hoses go thru the floorboard, that insulation should stop air from being forced into the heater assembly and it was not on my 78, the faster i would go the more air was forced in opening the doors enough to heat the floorboard, i also wrapped my exhaust pipes from the manifold to the crossmember, I used dynamat and dynaliner on the entire interior, I have no heat problem in my car.

C6-CYa

I think after 5 years they probably have the situation handled!