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YEP...this photo shows that this car has been touched by someone. That cut line in the panel at top top of the plenum says it all.
DUB
What would you recommend I check to look for damage if it were in an accident? The actual round steel bumper in the front looks fine as well as the chassis from what I can tell (I'll get pictures in the day). Maybe they were changing out the clip because the old one was deteriorating? What other reasons are there to remove the clip?
Hi Mason,
I think you'll find that it wasn't that rare to have a Corvette that was hit hard enough in the front to require that the front clip be replaced but the car suffered no significant, or even, no damage to the frame or bumper supports.
It really depends on just what was hit or did the hitting, and the location, angle, and height of the hit.
Even a minor hit that was higher than the bumper could do enough damage to the hood surround that the clip was replaced.
Regards,
Alan
Well, I got the car for a good price. And it's internals seem to be in working order. I didn't get it to be a collector, I want to drive it! I can live with a previous accident. I'm going to look on the bright side because I don't want to be depressed about it. I will probably end up reseating the clip this fall and I'll never know the difference. Thanks ya'll. I will get more pictures of the bottom to make sure there is no other damage just as a precaution.
Side view of the driver side? Need to compare sides and get a visual of the overall position of the clip.
Bally may be close on this. Looks like the nose is way low, with the rear attached that could make it spread out too. Mount would have to be nonexistent I think, or frame bent to be this bad. I seriously doubt that the car has never been hit.
A good body man on site to eyeball things may be a good idea here, could get you on the right track. It's a pretty severe mis-alignment and you wouldn't want to start in the wrong direction and make things worse.
I would get it off the ground and do a serious inspection under that nose.
Side view of the driver side? Need to compare sides and get a visual of the overall position of the clip.
Bally may be close on this. Looks like the nose is way low, with the rear attached that could make it spread out too. Mount would have to be nonexistent I think, or frame bent to be this bad. I seriously doubt that the car has never been hit.
A good body man on site to eyeball things may be a good idea here, could get you on the right track. It's a pretty severe mis-alignment and you wouldn't want to start in the wrong direction and make things worse.
I would get it off the ground and do a serious inspection under that nose.
EDIT NOTE: I left the hood cracked since I'm in and out of it. Ignore that spacing. I can retake photos if it matters.
These are the best I could do. You'll see that the car is against the fence which limits how far back I can step from the car with the camera. Also it's front end is on jack stands while I rebuild the passenger brake caliper. I took plenty so that hopefully a judgement can be made. Question for you and others: What should I photograph to look for frame damage from underneath? Does anyone have pictures of what to look at?
Driver side Clip fit from front.
Driver side posterior. I can't get directly parallel to car because there is a fence behind me.
Best I can do for a parallel view.
Passenger side I can see how there may be a some nose dipping. But then it could be an optical illusion due to that gap near windshield...
Not sure if this will be much help for alignment.
This angle should give a good view of any clip sag.
Another for completeness.
Last edited by Masonwader; 10-24-2016 at 03:52 PM.
Hi Mason,
The pictures show pretty the typical uneven gaps at the front of the door when there's a problem with the front clip installation or it's bond.
The gap is wider at the top than the bottom but is fairly even at the rear of the doors to the quarter panels.
That appears to be true for both sides but is more obvious on the right side.
The clip appears to be QUITE loose from the cowl.
IF the gaps were also uneven at the rear of the doors, but wider at the bottom in the rear, it would indicate a door alignment issue… but that doesn't seem to be the case here.
DUB will be able to explain this much more clearly than I can.
Regards,
Alan
For what it is worth. I often times get my a$$ handed to me when I comment on what I am about to write. Keep in mind I jack up countless Corvettes in a year...and they are all in different conditions.
In the photo you posted...if you look at where you have your safety stand....you can tell that there is a lot of weight from the front end that is pulling down. And guess where a problem can occur due to the front clip and frame flexing at your safety stand. it damages the area that you are having a problem with.
Originally Posted by Masonwader
Not all cars will do this right off the bat...but knowing that these frame can rust and flex...it is wise not to put your stand there....even if when you lower your floor jack...the gap there only widens just a little bit. It is that 'little bit' and repetitive action of using that point to put your jack stand is what can cause for a problem in future..ESPECIALLY if your remove your floor jack from under the cradle..
Put your jack stand under you lower control arms. That way...the car does not know that it does not have wheels on it and will sit basically the same. When you go to repair this.....you DO not want to have it supported...but rather have it on the wheels and tires and sitting at curb height....just like it will be when you drive it.
What would you recommend I check to look for damage if it were in an accident?
Any visible repairs that were done to the underside of the front clip panels.
The actual round steel bumper in the front looks fine as well as the chassis from what I can tell (I'll get pictures in the day).
The round tube / vacuum storage for your vacuum system is STOUT can take one heck of a hit. But what I would look at is where the impact bar assembly bolts to the end of the frame rails and see if they have been tweaked.
Maybe they were changing out the clip because the old one was deteriorating? What other reasons are there to remove the clip?
More than likely it delaminated and popped off in a front end hit.....or the front clip popped due to like how you have supported it with jack stands....or it is rusty and the rivets gave way.....I have no clue what there reason for doing what they did. I have had Corvettes come in my shop with a minor front end hit and the front clip literally popped off the bonding flanges at the doors and cowl....And I have had Corvettes that were SMACKED hard in the front end and the bond areas at the doors and cowl held.....and the fiberglass buckled and splintered.
For what it is worth. I often times get my a$$ handed to me when I comment on what I am about to write. Keep in mind I jack up countless Corvettes in a year...and they are all in different conditions.
In the photo you posted...if you look at where you have your safety stand....you can tell that there is a lot of weight from the front end that is pulling down. And guess where a problem can occur due to the front clip and frame flexing at your safety stand. it damages the area that you are having a problem with.
Not all cars will do this right off the bat...but knowing that these frame can rust and flex...it is wise not to put your stand there....even if when you lower your floor jack...the gap there only widens just a little bit. It is that 'little bit' and repetitive action of using that point to put your jack stand is what can cause for a problem in future..ESPECIALLY if your remove your floor jack from under the cradle..
Put your jack stand under you lower control arms. That way...the car does not know that it does not have wheels on it and will sit basically the same. When you go to repair this.....you DO not want to have it supported...but rather have it on the wheels and tires and sitting at curb height....just like it will be when you drive it.
DUB
Thanks for the advice. I saw a lot of difference of opinion on where to jack the car up. I chose some areas of the frame that looked to be in good condition. I hate to sound ignorant but I've never heard of the cradle before. Is that the chassis that the motor sits on? I'll move the jackstands when the mosquitoes go back to sleep in the morning.
If I repair the issue I plan to have it on all 4 tires and I've been reading about ensuring that the car is level in all directions before attempting to reseat the clip. My biggest fear at this point is that I'll have to apply heat to the paint and a lot of people drill holes in the fiberglass for screws to put it back together while adhesive cures. I'd hate to ruin perfectly good paint. I'll keep looking into it.
EDIT: DUB, I understand putting the jackstands under the lower control arms while I'm not working under it. But is putting them under the control arms a good option if I need to get under the car? Will that affect stability? I've honestly always just jacked up my vehicles just behind the wheel well. Thanks for your feedback again!
Last edited by Masonwader; 10-24-2016 at 10:18 PM.
Here are photos after moving jackstands.
DUB, Opinion on that location on the control arm?
Not sure if you can tell, but I've got the head of the jack stand butted up near the midline of the shock. There is a gap between the two however.
Left the floor jack in location although it's not weight bearing. I dropped it after the jackstands held and then bumped it back up until it met resistance.
Not thrilled with how the driver's side jackstand is fitting on the lower control arm. I'm going to readjust this when I get another break. It is weight bearing and passes the hit with fist test.
Last edited by Masonwader; 10-25-2016 at 11:47 AM.
Putting the jack stand right under the shock is fine...stop and think about the spring pressure there???...and the complex bends in the control arm that also makes is super strong.
I also put the jack stand right under the wide section of the brake rotor. Never had a problem there.
I ALSO leave my floor jack apply a light pressure to where ever I raised it from. If it is not in the way of me working I keep it there so I have 3 points of support.
I position the curve in the safety stand to fit the curve of the lower portion of the shock absorber.
I am aslo doing this on my level shop floor.
****DISCLAIMER and I am NOT responsible for people who do not take proper safety steps or interpret what I write incorrectly USE COMMON SENSE******
And..just so I am clear.....I am also NOT doing any crazy crap when the car is supported. I am not doing any work that would remotely cause me ANY CONCERN of the body shifting and falling due to agressive forces being applied to the body. IF I do something that will cause concern. I put the wheels back on or take other measures...BUT YOU CAN BE GUARANTEED...I AM NOT under it.
10-23-2016, 07:30 PM
