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L89 block mismatch

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Old Jan 5, 2017 | 02:48 PM
  #21  
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So the I 4 8/9 512 block that started this discussion HAS to be a I 4 9 (Sep 4th, 1969) because of the location of the date code.
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Old Jan 5, 2017 | 03:53 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Rowdy Rat
For your car, everything seems right in line. October 8, 1969 block was cast... October 20, 1969 engine was assembled... October 24, 1969 car was assembled. Pretty quick progression for a big block Corvette, but all within reasonable production practices for that time.

The car that Corkscrew has referenced has a VIN for a 1969 Corvette built in late October 1968... An I 4 9 casting date would mean the block was cast eleven months after the car was built... That's a problem. If we are misreading this and it is an I 4 8 casting date, then the casting date is in a location it probably shouldn't be until three or four months later. On top of that, the engine is coded for an option that supposedly wasn't available for another three of four months as well.

Interesting situation...

Regards,

Stan
I agree with you Stan. That really looks like a 9 to me and the 8's and 9's are very similar in the castings, mine has both, (J-8-9) but the catch is there is no way the casting date would be where it is if that's a 68 block....

Last edited by CanadaGrant; Jan 5, 2017 at 03:54 PM.
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Old Jan 5, 2017 | 10:20 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Rowdy Rat
Ed,

Good information. Might be brain fade, but I don't recall style of "4."

Assuming the "4" is correct, it appears to be I 4 9... Located on the bellhousing of a 3963512 block. For September 4, 1969, the 3963512 casting would probably be the only casting number being used for a 427 and puts the block casting date in the location it should be.

Now the problem comes when you get to the pad.

The pad surface is obviously damaged... The dual disc clutch may not have been available... The block casting and assembly dates are after the car was built (by almost a year)... There are some other pad issues that might be in play as well.

If the date actually is I 4 8, then you run into the question of the orientation of the date... Why isn't it on the side of the block?

Throw in the fact that there is no documentation on top of all of that.

If it is a neat old car and the purchase price wasn't/isn't too high, a lot of what we are looking at really isn't critical... Just drive it and enjoy it. If, on the other hand, you're looking at a high dollar car billed to be the "real deal," then you may want to look at other options.

Do you own this car or are you looking at it as a potential purchase?

Regards,

Stan
Thanks, Stan and all others who have contributed to this discussion! Here is the story. I went to my son's place in WA for Thanksgiving. While at a pizza place with my grandkids, I picked up a small local paper to look at car ads. Noticed a 69 Vette coupe for sale at a local pawnshop. I go to see it and it is listed on a for sale sign that originally had $56k, then$50k, and finally $46k and also says matching numbers L89. At this point, I am very interested but cautious. Owner says he has had it for over a year and at one point had an offer for $50k after some guy flew up from CA to look at it and who was sure it was a real L89, but he turned it down and regrets not taking it now. I check out car on a lift and all looks good except ( as I mentioned in original post ) car #5903 built Oct 28, 1968 but has a 512 block. Which after doing some research is suspicious to me. But, this is the first C3 I have ever looked at, so I came to the forum for some help. At that point I was back home in Florida. I had neglected to check on the block casting date, so I had my son go back to take some pics for me, one of which was the casting date and another the stamp pad. You have now seen both, and with the casting date of Sept 4, 1969 in it's location on top of the block, with no documentation, and that ugly stamp pad, I am now completely convinced it is a restamp of the vin derivative on the stamp pad and possibly the trans as well. From another thread here, the ma6 option came available on Dec 24, 1968, but someone who ordered on that day did not get his car until April 1969 because of the low availability of the heavy duty clutch. So if the T1013LU is original to that block, which I kinda doubt, it actually COULD be a real L89 with a heavy duty clutch. That remains to be seen. Could be a total engine clone job! All that being said, and assuming now that it is just a cloned engine, I need to determine an offering price. Seller has now listed it online for $40k OBO. By the way, I know that the seller did not do the clone job, because I have seen stamp pad picture posted online by the previous owner who was asking $60k. I think the pawnshop owner got taken! So, bottom line, front clip has been replaced, unknown non-original rear end, non-original seats, one fiberglass repair around rear bumper brace, no shoulder belts, but from all other indications a real big block car(proper tach, sway bars, etc) with a cloned big block, aluminum head, tripower setup with proper casting numbers? What's it worth? I'm thinking maybe somewhere between $28k-$32k. Your thoughts guys?????
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Old Jan 6, 2017 | 02:17 AM
  #24  
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As you know you are looking at a clone, its worth whatever he will let it go for. Chances are he also knows its a clone and will try and get as much as possible for it as well. At this point, he is just another used car salesman moving a car. Post more pictures of the outside and interior of the car. How is the paint? How does it run and drive? Does it need anything? Rust on the frame and behind the kick panels? You made a good start by bringing up the casting numbers here as these guys have such a wealth of knowledge on this.
And the big question, how much are you willing to spend?
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Old Jan 6, 2017 | 03:07 AM
  #25  
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this car has been quite the subject .. I guess you learn something every day
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Old Jan 6, 2017 | 08:50 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Lobzila
As you know you are looking at a clone, its worth whatever he will let it go for. Chances are he also knows its a clone and will try and get as much as possible for it as well. At this point, he is just another used car salesman moving a car. Post more pictures of the outside and interior of the car. How is the paint? How does it run and drive? Does it need anything? Rust on the frame and behind the kick panels? You made a good start by bringing up the casting numbers here as these guys have such a wealth of knowledge on this.
And the big question, how much are you willing to spend?
Here's a link to previous seller's ad.

http://americanclassicscars.com/chev...num-heads.html

I have not driven the car; just saw it start and run when seller put it up on lift so I could inspect it. Underside looks great, exterior is also very good. Interior could use some freshening. I will be back in WA on the 24th. If it is still there, I will do a closer inspection and test drive and then report back.

Last edited by Corkscrew; Jan 6, 2017 at 08:56 AM. Reason: Add more info
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 04:05 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Corkscrew
Here's a link to previous seller's ad.

http://americanclassicscars.com/chev...num-heads.html

I have not driven the car; just saw it start and run when seller put it up on lift so I could inspect it. Underside looks great, exterior is also very good. Interior could use some freshening. I will be back in WA on the 24th. If it is still there, I will do a closer inspection and test drive and then report back.
Well, I got a chance to confirm in person that the block is not original to the car. Also took it for a drive. Runs rough, even after warming up, and drives poorly. I suspect frame damage as the culprit for the poor handling. I decided that it is not worth nearly the $40k that he is asking for it.
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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 12:14 AM
  #28  
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Prior to buying my car a year or so ago I looked at this car. Pretty nice looking car. However, I had an uncomfortable feeling about the authenticity of the car. Stamp pad and lack of paperwork.
Having said that though, if you could pick it up for 30 something (low 30's), I think you would have a pretty descent car for the price. The tri power set up and 1969 aluminium heads are each about 3 grand alone.
Remember the solid lifter rectangular head L71/L89 is a cranky beast by nature. When I ran it it was running fairly well. As for the frame damage, that may be a different story, I didn't see any evidence of that but didn't get very deep into it.
Just me 2 cents worth!
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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 08:32 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by VancouverL71
Prior to buying my car a year or so ago I looked at this car. Pretty nice looking car. However, I had an uncomfortable feeling about the authenticity of the car. Stamp pad and lack of paperwork.
Having said that though, if you could pick it up for 30 something (low 30's), I think you would have a pretty descent car for the price. The tri power set up and 1969 aluminium heads are each about 3 grand alone.
Remember the solid lifter rectangular head L71/L89 is a cranky beast by nature. When I ran it it was running fairly well. As for the frame damage, that may be a different story, I didn't see any evidence of that but didn't get very deep into it.
Just me 2 cents worth!
VancouverL71, It is definitely a restamp! But not by the current owner. He let me look through the copies of prior titles and registrations, but the key piece of info he shared was the import document that showed what he paid for the car, $45,386. He got taken! He is not a corvette guy, just a flipper. I spent quite a while explaining in detail why the block is not original, yet he continues to advertise it as numbers matching. He is just out looking for someone to unload it on. The fact that the front clip has been replaced(not very well in my opinion), it does not drive straight, and the right motor mount is broken, makes me very suspicious of frame damage. As for the engine itself, it would not rev even close to redline without breaking up, and since the block is not original, there is no guarantee it has the L71 internals. High 20's would be my best offer if he got it tuned and aligned well enough to track straight.
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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 10:22 AM
  #30  
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I talked to the previous owner in Canada very briefly on the phone just when it was sold and then saw the car show up later at that pawn shop. I then looked at it in Washington and fired it up but never drove it. I think when you have a feeling, best thing to do is just walk away, thats what I did. I didn't realize it would not even drive straight.
If you really want an L71, why don't you take a look at that blue hardtop that is for sale on here for 42,000. Or the Red convertible 1968 L71 near San Francisco for 53,000. They both look pretty original and I think you get a better more honest car buying on here.
Can't thing of any real L89 for sale anywhere for less than 60 g's at the moment
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