69 427 under body damage advice needed
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
69 427 under body damage advice needed
I sent in my 69 427 w/ac coupe into a local shop to fix some fiberglass damage on the front part of the car and had them look for any surprise damage in case in the future I have them rebuild the front suspension.
They said that the passenger side lower A arm was bent pretty bad and needed replaced and the oil pan was dented bad around the oil plug and needed to be replaced.
I prefer to keep my car as numbers correct as possible so my first question is what are my chances of purchasing a numbers correct lower a-arm and oil pan for a reasonable price?
Is there a range of corvette years that share the same part # for this application that would help my search? Do all the C3s share the same lower control arm in case I cant find one from a 69?
The oil pan was kind of a surprise in a sense that I thought the rear seal was leaking. I knew there was a bad spot by oil plug though.
If I have to buy an aftermarket oil pan, was the original pan a specific color (orange, black or neither) and is there something specific I want to make sure I have so it looks exactly original?
It leaks real slow, Is that something I may want to look into getting fixed possibly?
I should be getting the car back in next couple days and see if I can get a good picture of both damage parts and post them.
They confirmed my drivers front brake caliper was leaking also, but I believe that was one that I got in a box from owner I purchased it from. If it was new but I don't know how long it had sat around. But that's just another thing to work on.
Winter projects!
thanks again
jim 69
They said that the passenger side lower A arm was bent pretty bad and needed replaced and the oil pan was dented bad around the oil plug and needed to be replaced.
I prefer to keep my car as numbers correct as possible so my first question is what are my chances of purchasing a numbers correct lower a-arm and oil pan for a reasonable price?
Is there a range of corvette years that share the same part # for this application that would help my search? Do all the C3s share the same lower control arm in case I cant find one from a 69?
The oil pan was kind of a surprise in a sense that I thought the rear seal was leaking. I knew there was a bad spot by oil plug though.
If I have to buy an aftermarket oil pan, was the original pan a specific color (orange, black or neither) and is there something specific I want to make sure I have so it looks exactly original?
It leaks real slow, Is that something I may want to look into getting fixed possibly?
I should be getting the car back in next couple days and see if I can get a good picture of both damage parts and post them.
They confirmed my drivers front brake caliper was leaking also, but I believe that was one that I got in a box from owner I purchased it from. If it was new but I don't know how long it had sat around. But that's just another thing to work on.
Winter projects!
thanks again
jim 69
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#4
Le Mans Master
Lower control arms for these cars were quite generic. You will have no difficulty finding an "original" control arm for it.
There was a time when finding an "original" frame in good condition was a challenge. These days, between the plethora of reproduction frames and many early C3's being resto-modded, a complete rolling chassis is quite easy to find.
Good luck... GUSTO
There was a time when finding an "original" frame in good condition was a challenge. These days, between the plethora of reproduction frames and many early C3's being resto-modded, a complete rolling chassis is quite easy to find.
Good luck... GUSTO
#5
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Hi Jim,
I believe there were some slight differences in the configuration of the lower a-arm as the model years go by. For instance the type of 'stop' it had on it for the steering. You'll want to see what's appropriate for your car.
In addition, if you're concerned about originality, you may want to pay attention to the configuration of the ball joint in the arm and the rivets used to fasten it in place.
There may also haven been some variations in the a-arm shaft and it's bushings as time went by so you may want to be conscience of that too.
You should also be aware that the a-arms seem to have been painted with a black displaying perhaps a little more sheen than other black painted components.
These things are all minor details and I mention them only because of your question.
Regards,
Alan
An example of the 'welded stop tab' on a a-arm from a 71.
An example of the type of rivet used to fasten the ball joint.
I believe there were some slight differences in the configuration of the lower a-arm as the model years go by. For instance the type of 'stop' it had on it for the steering. You'll want to see what's appropriate for your car.
In addition, if you're concerned about originality, you may want to pay attention to the configuration of the ball joint in the arm and the rivets used to fasten it in place.
There may also haven been some variations in the a-arm shaft and it's bushings as time went by so you may want to be conscience of that too.
You should also be aware that the a-arms seem to have been painted with a black displaying perhaps a little more sheen than other black painted components.
These things are all minor details and I mention them only because of your question.
Regards,
Alan
An example of the 'welded stop tab' on a a-arm from a 71.
An example of the type of rivet used to fasten the ball joint.
Last edited by Alan 71; 12-07-2016 at 08:56 AM.
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I grabbed a couple pictures of the oil pan and the damage I seen on my lower control arm.
Is there a way to confirm my oil pan is the original one?
It's leak I believe is located nearby the oil drain plug. The metal is bent tight enough to make a tiny crack.
The control arm damage that I could find seem to be just a portion of the lip that is bent up.
Couldn't both of these items be fixed?
thanks
jim
Is there a way to confirm my oil pan is the original one?
It's leak I believe is located nearby the oil drain plug. The metal is bent tight enough to make a tiny crack.
The control arm damage that I could find seem to be just a portion of the lip that is bent up.
Couldn't both of these items be fixed?
thanks
jim
#7
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Both of these items could be easily repaired, a small weld on the oil pan and the metal on the a arm is pretty thick and could be bent back. Looks like it might be time for some new bushing in the a arms though (while you are at it).
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SuperBuickGuy (12-08-2016)
#8
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Hi x,
I agree that the a-arm could be fixed cosmetically.
The question would remain though as to if the a-arm has been de-formed in some other way.
The material of the arm is pretty hefty so it would have taken some force to have the result shown.
I guess an indication that the arm should be replaced would be a problem in doing a front alignment or a noticeable quirk while driving.
Regards,
Alan
I agree that the a-arm could be fixed cosmetically.
The question would remain though as to if the a-arm has been de-formed in some other way.
The material of the arm is pretty hefty so it would have taken some force to have the result shown.
I guess an indication that the arm should be replaced would be a problem in doing a front alignment or a noticeable quirk while driving.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; 12-08-2016 at 03:37 PM.
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
jim
#10
Melting Slicks
As for your oil pan being original.
I am not 100% certain just by looking at it off the top of my head, but it should be pretty easy to find out just by googling it. If you compare yours to what is described as original on a google search it should be pretty easy to determine. Chances are it is original if not at least correct.
I am not 100% certain just by looking at it off the top of my head, but it should be pretty easy to find out just by googling it. If you compare yours to what is described as original on a google search it should be pretty easy to determine. Chances are it is original if not at least correct.
#12
Melting Slicks
since your car is a driver (and major kudos for that). I'd simply replace the parts with generic, and save those parts for when it's time to do a nut n bolt restoration. Why spend all that money for 'exact' parts when one missed curb, one stupid tow truck driver, or one "pull" into the garage and you'll be looking for another perfect one.
Keep driving it, collect the correct parts, use the generic parts... my 2cents.
Keep driving it, collect the correct parts, use the generic parts... my 2cents.
#13
Nam Labrat
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You must have made a point to your Mechanic that you wanted the car to look original......otherwise, as other Members said---Repair the existing parts unless they are distorted so that they affect the safety of the car.