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20K and still have issues!

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Old 02-12-2017, 10:52 PM
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c1nicole
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Default 20K and still have issues!

Just got the girl back from the garage this week. Rebuilt engine/tranny, new suspension, exhaust and brakes. We are still having issues and I am pretty frustrated that we have paid them 20K and still having these issues:

1,) Still leaking transmission fluid, about a lemon sized puddle a day.
2.) Radiator fluid is leaking where the thermostat attaches.
3.) When turning, at the extreme end of turning the wheel there is a grinding and sounds like something is rubbing.
4.) The car continually idles high and although kicking the accelerator helps, this was never an issues prior to the work.
5.) The car sputters and refuses to turn off normally, especially when hot.
6.) We drove it to a friends house, about 10 minutes from our house. Started fine, when we went to leave would not start and had to jump it.
7.) Tachometer is jumping.
8.) RPM's not reading correctly.
9.) Speedometer is jumping around.

They charge $110/hr labor, not willing to pay them more to get this right. I feel it should have been sent home in working order. Thoughts????
Old 02-12-2017, 10:57 PM
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jr73
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Wow looks like they owe you some warentee work
Old 02-12-2017, 11:22 PM
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Andy Tuttle
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I would take it back n have them make it right - on their dollar.
Old 02-12-2017, 11:30 PM
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vbgod1
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Anyone can make a mistake, but for that money, your list is pretty long. Document the complaints, be sure you can duplicate them for the shop to see, and show them. A good Tech/ shop would want to help. Leaks and rubbing should be simple fix, running might be a timing/ carb adjustment, tach could be a loose wire. Report back what they say.
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Old 02-13-2017, 08:30 AM
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c1nicole
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I put the A-frame dust shields on, not a fun job!

You can see the leak as well as stacks of shims. Also brackets are missing in the bay, wires and hoses are a tangled mess. They tossed my u bolts and exhaust clamps saying they were rusted, I have previous pictures, they were in usable shape.

Any thoughts on what you see?








Old 02-13-2017, 08:34 AM
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Old 02-13-2017, 09:04 AM
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bj1k
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Wow !, $110. per hour and those kind of problems still remain ? Take it back and demand satisfaction. I closed my auto restoration metal restoration shop and retired just three years ago and my labor rate was only $35.00 per hour for top quality work and I continue to do work for some past customers for the same rate . Some people thought my rates were high because they worked for private companies for $25.00 per hour. There are many expenses to running a business , but for $110. they are making huge money. They need to make it right. Good Luck
Old 02-13-2017, 09:34 AM
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Alan 71
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Hi c,
I remember some of your thoughts when you began posting…

"This will be a terrifying restoration to tackle as a virgin to the restoration world, but I will do it in Dad's honor."
"It will be a huge learning experience for me."

I hope you have some patience to get these lingering and disappointing issues taken care of.

# 4-5-6.
Is the choke operating properly?
Is the anti-diesel/fast idle solenoid operating properly?
Is the heat shield in place on the starter?
Regards,
Alan

Last edited by Alan 71; 02-13-2017 at 09:48 AM.
Old 02-13-2017, 10:14 AM
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c1nicole
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi c,
I remember some of your thoughts when you began posting…

"This will be a terrifying restoration to tackle as a virgin to the restoration world, but I will do it in Dad's honor."
"It will be a huge learning experience for me."

I hope you have some patience to get these lingering and disappointing issues taken care of.

# 4-5-6.
Is the choke operating properly?
Is the anti-diesel/fast idle solenoid operating properly?
Is the heat shield in place on the starter?
Regards,
Alan

Alan,

For sure a learning experience. HAHA! My dad, as I have said, did concourse restorations of Shelby Mustangs, and a E-type Jag, he was a perfectionist. I think he is probably rolling in his grave a little seeing the lack of correctness, especially considering the $$$ paid for knowledgeable restoration work.

Heat shield was purchased and given to them, will have to look and see if it was installed, as to the other questions, I am not sure. These were not issues prior to the tear down. Am I unjustified in my frustration? Should I expect them to correct these things without charging me additional $110/hr labor?

Thanks Alan. As always your expert input is greatly appreciated!

Candie
Old 02-13-2017, 10:43 AM
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woodlawnmill
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Default 20K and still issues?

Originally Posted by c1nicole
Just got the girl back from the garage this week. Rebuilt engine/tranny, new suspension, exhaust and brakes. We are still having issues and I am pretty frustrated that we have paid them 20K and still having these issues:

1,) Still leaking transmission fluid, about a lemon sized puddle a day.
2.) Radiator fluid is leaking where the thermostat attaches.
3.) When turning, at the extreme end of turning the wheel there is a grinding and sounds like something is rubbing.
4.) The car continually idles high and although kicking the accelerator helps, this was never an issues prior to the work.
5.) The car sputters and refuses to turn off normally, especially when hot.
6.) We drove it to a friends house, about 10 minutes from our house. Started fine, when we went to leave would not start and had to jump it.
7.) Tachometer is jumping.
8.) RPM's not reading correctly.
9.) Speedometer is jumping around.

They charge $110/hr labor, not willing to pay them more to get this right. I feel it should have been sent home in working order. Thoughts????
I've owned 5 c-3's, 2 BB's a'70 and a current '72. both pure stock A/T cars ALWAYS have problems with overheating and dieseling (run on). Ethanol in modern fuel causes loads of problems for sure. Eats fuel systems,carb to gas tank. Timing is VERY important, Lars the carb guy has some great info to get it just right. EVERY air dam and fan shroud MUST be in place. '72 A/C car is the worst. No outside air flow, mostly an oven to drive, so really no need for a heater at all. Check the drive gear/cable on the tach/distributor and speedo for damage. A big block is great for the WOW factor but a real pig as a driver. A SB is a MUCH better driver and handles WAY better as well. Good luck and All the Best.

SW
Old 02-13-2017, 11:06 AM
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tokim
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Originally Posted by vbgod1
Anyone can make a mistake, but for that money, your list is pretty long. Document the complaints, be sure you can duplicate them for the shop to see, and show them. A good Tech/ shop would want to help. Leaks and rubbing should be simple fix, running might be a timing/ carb adjustment, tach could be a loose wire. Report back what they say.
^^I agree^^
Old 02-13-2017, 11:25 AM
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gbvette62
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It's not uncommon for there to be little issues, after doing that much work, and many of the items you list may just be a matter of a little adjustment. The shop that did the work, should be willing to correct the issues, free of charge.

When engines and transmissions go through a few heat cycles after being apart, sometimes things loosen up. The trans leak may just be a loose coolant line, or pan (I'm assuming it's an automatic?). The water outlet also may have just loosened up, or it may need to come off and have the mating surfaces cleaned, and a new gasket installed. The kick down issue sounds like a choke adjustment, and the dieseling may be a carb adjustment or a timing issue. The tach and speedo issues sound cable related. It may just be the way they're routed, causing the cables to bind. If they're the original cables, it may be time to change them.

Have you brought all of this to the attention of the shop? I don't think that any of the issues sound very serious, and the shop certainly should be willing to correct them.

Did you take it to a Corvette shop, or some other type of auto repair shop? $110 an hour is less than a lot of dealers and larger shops charge here in NJ, but I also know some small 1 or 2 man Corvette shops, that charge $50-$75 an hour.

Out of curiosity, your father wasn't named Hal, was he? About 12-15 years ago, I sold Corvette parts to a gentleman named Hal, in Big Cabin OK. He restored Mustangs and Shelby's, but also did a lot of work on a 66 427 Corvette, for a customer of his that had a collection of Mustangs.

I don't know how far you are from Enid, but I have a friend there that use to restore Corvettes. He's retired now, but still might be able to help you.
Old 02-13-2017, 11:57 AM
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Lots of people think this kind of service is okay especially when its not their car and money...been there done that...Lets see how the shop owner reacts, anything other than a humble apology and getting right on it will tell the tale what the shop is really about...excuses are useless.
Old 02-13-2017, 02:02 PM
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Alan 71
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Hi c1,
"Am I unjustified in my frustration?"
You're justified to be frustrated with the shop….. but maybe you need to be frustrated with yourself too.
You had no experience with this sort of thing….. but now you do.
I would need to know what your contract with them was to even get an idea of what you can expect from them at this point.
Was what they were expected to do spelled out in detail?
When working on an old Corvette almost every job no matter how simple or how small it seems, ends up requiring some unforeseen ancillary work.
So, what did YOU think they were going to do, and what did THEY think they were going to do.
I know you don't want to hear this but there are some very ugly lessons learned when working on 50 year old Corvettes.
Chin Up!
Regards,
Alan

Last edited by Alan 71; 02-13-2017 at 02:33 PM.
Old 02-13-2017, 02:34 PM
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Stroh
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Sorry you're having such issues after all that money invested. But not all tough stories have bad endings.

As so many have already pointed out, spell out the difficulties with the shop, talk to the folks there and ask them to make it right.

There should be absolutely NO fluid leaks after that kind of money, period.

Alan's suggestion about the heater shield on the starter is a good one. It sounds like that is the culprit of it not starting even after a short run. You may need a new starter, if the old one wasn't replaced. The originals (if not rebuilt) get finicky with heat -- even if the heat shield is installed. You might also have them look at the neutral safety switch -- maybe a loose connection, which can have the same symptoms.

As for the jumping tac-- on your year, I'd guess you have a loose wire -- as others here have suggested.

If the shop isn't willing to address your concerns -- problems they should have fixed in the first place, there are several avenues to pursue.

Complaints to the better business bureau or in the comments section on their web page if they have one -- even a post on Craig's List or Angie's List don't really do much, but can give some satisfaction. The power of social media is growing, but depending on the business might not yeild results. I was able to put a severe dent in a local tire shop's business, by being very noisy about their service scam and the resulting danger to my son (his car was tampered with -- I'm sure, but it is difficult to prove that kind of thing or there would be criminal charges filed already). They are still trying to get me to remove my comments from their website and to stop a social media campaign, but that's not going to happen.

If you have a contract from the garage with clear expectations, prices, etc. I'd say take them to court if they haven't addressed the issues to your satisfaction.

Though frustrating, the list you have shared seems to have fairly minor corrections necessary. But I guess you never know. Best of luck in getting this resolved.
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Old 02-13-2017, 02:41 PM
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it takes a while to shake down minor issues after a full blown build,
it may not have been leaking before, no one resues old hardware,
unless your doing a full blown restoration, did you specific to keep original clamps ?
I would contact original installer, and point out issues,
they should say we will take care of these problems.
tangled wire harness = lack of pride in neat installation,
but you can straighten out to be pretty.
Old 02-13-2017, 05:02 PM
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c1nicole
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Originally Posted by woodlawnmill
I've owned 5 c-3's, 2 BB's a'70 and a current '72. both pure stock A/T cars ALWAYS have problems with overheating and dieseling (run on). Ethanol in modern fuel causes loads of problems for sure. Eats fuel systems,carb to gas tank. Timing is VERY important, Lars the carb guy has some great info to get it just right. EVERY air dam and fan shroud MUST be in place. '72 A/C car is the worst. No outside air flow, mostly an oven to drive, so really no need for a heater at all. Check the drive gear/cable on the tach/distributor and speedo for damage. A big block is great for the WOW factor but a real pig as a driver. A SB is a MUCH better driver and handles WAY better as well. Good luck and All the Best.

SW
Wow, you have had some experience with the C3's!! Thank you for your input. Will check on the above items you suggested.

I did add heat shield over the tranny and behind the engine, can already tell a huge difference. Not on fire during our drives now!

Have been putting ethanol FREE only gas in her, pretty easy to come by in Oklahoma.

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To 20K and still have issues!

Old 02-13-2017, 05:13 PM
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c1nicole
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Originally Posted by gbvette62
It's not uncommon for there to be little issues, after doing that much work, and many of the items you list may just be a matter of a little adjustment. The shop that did the work, should be willing to correct the issues, free of charge.

When engines and transmissions go through a few heat cycles after being apart, sometimes things loosen up. The trans leak may just be a loose coolant line, or pan (I'm assuming it's an automatic?). The water outlet also may have just loosened up, or it may need to come off and have the mating surfaces cleaned, and a new gasket installed. The kick down issue sounds like a choke adjustment, and the dieseling may be a carb adjustment or a timing issue. The tach and speedo issues sound cable related. It may just be the way they're routed, causing the cables to bind. If they're the original cables, it may be time to change them.

Have you brought all of this to the attention of the shop? I don't think that any of the issues sound very serious, and the shop certainly should be willing to correct them.

Did you take it to a Corvette shop, or some other type of auto repair shop? $110 an hour is less than a lot of dealers and larger shops charge here in NJ, but I also know some small 1 or 2 man Corvette shops, that charge $50-$75 an hour.

Out of curiosity, your father wasn't named Hal, was he? About 12-15 years ago, I sold Corvette parts to a gentleman named Hal, in Big Cabin OK. He restored Mustangs and Shelby's, but also did a lot of work on a 66 427 Corvette, for a customer of his that had a collection of Mustangs.

I don't know how far you are from Enid, but I have a friend there that use to restore Corvettes. He's retired now, but still might be able to help you.
GB,

Thanks for the input. The shop is a classic car specialty shop, owner and 2 shop guys. The owner was aware of some of the issues when he sent it home with me, because he pointed them out, as if they may resolve.... (???) My Dads name was Dwight and he did restorations with Thoroughbred restorations in Piedmont with John Brown. Most of the cars they did went to Barrett Jackson. Would be willing to bet he knew Hal. Would be willing to try to get in touch with your friend in Enid. Of nothing else meet him at some of the local Corvette events that we plan to attend once we get the kinks worked out! We are hoping to go to Eureka Springs this fall so glad to hear these are minor fixes.
Old 02-13-2017, 05:16 PM
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c1nicole
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[QUOTE=Alan 71;1594084841]Hi c1,
"Am I unjustified in my frustration?"
You're justified to be frustrated with the shop….. but maybe you need to be frustrated with yourself too.


For sure. MY biggest regret/frustration, is that although I did learn a lot more than most girls from her dad, there was SO much more I could have taken the time to learn.

Just don't want my lack of knowledge to make me vulnerable to shops that might be doing things incorrectly, hence why I truly appreciate every response on this forum! Hopefully some day, I can tell others about my experience and be helpful.
Old 02-13-2017, 05:30 PM
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Alan 71
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Hi c1n,
"Just don't want my lack of knowledge to make me vulnerable".
I guess the one thing I can suggest is that you slow down. That will give you an opportunity to have your knowledge catch up with the decisions you're making.
I must say I was amazed how quickly you were making decisions, were doing things, and having things done, while admitting that you were new at this.
You need to realize that people are very quick to offer advice without knowing the larger picture. It's up to you to know the larger picture.
Regards,
Alan
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