bfit

SuperBuickGuy

No, I haven't forgotten this. My friend with the mill is on vacation until early next year, so the front brake/spindle mods get to wait, also I have a stack of postponed projects that really need movement (e.g. Colorado air compressor, rack, lights, sliders; Suburban stuff). Also, the next step after the brakes is pull the body off. That, of course, fills my shop and lift - so the other projects plus my wife's craptastic Jeep JK Rubicon (which is leaking coolant, again) means I need to put this on a 2 month or so hold... leaving the body on the frame makes it far easier to move.

in other news, I've been building a plasma table so I can make nice pieces for the frame work that is soon to come

SuperBuickGuy

package it up to roll it out.... radiator

yeah, doesn't fit.... ah well - it's not far off

side shot




time to move it out of the way for a couple weeks

SuperBuickGuy

there are washers under the passenger side mount to get the pipes to fit in their correct place.

bfit

SuperBuickGuy

move the front suspension back 3/4" or move the flare....


I'm really leaning towards moving the flare and then giving it more flare along with a slightly different shape.... cut right there between the rear of the wheel and the gills.

SuperBuickGuy

Place a 1/16" thick washer between the motor mount and the block. block rotates, manifolds go up on one side and naturally also go down on the other side. That's how the hell it happens, magic or physics.

SuperBuickGuy

I already did. You asked how, I told you, you don't like it. If you don't like how I'm doing this - you're welcome to shout your opinion anywhere but here.


and this is exactly why I don't participate anywhere else on Corvette Forum... everything is an argument - even how I did something months ago. But as we have a good example - let's be clear, I post what I do.... you have a question about what I'm doing, ask. That said, my life is too short to even consider feeding trolls.

SuperBuickGuy

time to remove the body bolts

mmmm... good sawblades

a good example.... the first two came out just fine (motor end), second took a bit of lube....

the last, a neanderthal


this is more for me - but I'm moving everything back 3/4" so knowing where the steering was will be useful when I build new motor mounts

SuperBuickGuy

edit
I bought the coating for the frame.... so once it's squared, plated, shortened, made pretty... a coat of paint and it'll be good for a long, long time

SuperBuickGuy

a mistake... and what will stop me from completely getting the body off


up we go, hmm, nose low


once I removed the bumper brackets, and the clutch fork... up


and stopped here


did you guess the problem? the 68-73 rear curls under the rear valance .... had I put those jackstands on dollies - I could have moved the frame forward then completed the lift-off.... and my jack said "oh hell no" so tomorrow get a new jack then finish this.

SuperBuickGuy

So I did do jack today... twice
new hotness

old brokenness

wait.... which one is broken?

I was all ready to proclaim how my Costco jack outlasted 2 HF jacks.... which, old brokenness did... problem was that was a factory sealed new one that was broken when they put it in the box.... ah well, just 2 hours I'll never get back
putting the new, new one to work

and the divorce is final




finally get to use this cart


this didn't last long, but it fits so I can move stuff around if needed




stiff stripped off..... more to come

SuperBuickGuy

time to use my frame floor

oh yes, and tape measures

it really wasn't that far off (within GM manufacturing tolerances for the day).... but I can do much better, so I will


the challenge, of course, is getting it square to the floor (after verifying squareness of the frame)

lots of this action

It's close, I'll let it settle over night then do the front. The back is 1/16" off square, so I'll fix that as well... but that is for later this week

Rescue Rogers

I'ld give those dollies a good nudge, in case they are hung up on some debris, to help it settle. Looks greaat!!!! thanks for the pics!

Auggievf

Whoa.... that's some seriously hardcore work... Thanks for the pics and updates.

SuperBuickGuy

lol there's an air gap between the dollies and what was resting on them.

SuperBuickGuy

time to make this real - of course, that means cutting it apart and making it look pretty.

the first step is to weld plates on the rearmost channels to hold things in place



measuring process


and it's cut apart.....

SuperBuickGuy

Oh look, Jeep on a trailer.... what keeps sbg from PF2? yeah, a blasted Heep.


in other news, the Colorado hauls the Jeep even better then the Hummer did - though it may be the Ford hubcaps on the trailer, after all Fords get towed very well

yet I still did get to fun stuff



even had a minute to hit the frame with a wire wheel in prep for welding the frame. I think I'm going to weld it with the motor in place then pull the motor, flip the frame then weld and brace the rest....

SuperBuickGuy

time to start welding.... motor is in and it's resting level and on its suspension points.... and the frame wasn't flat, so I'll weld it flat in this process

look at the 'weld' to the left of the mig weld.... this is why welding the frame is so important


this hole gets filled too


and the fun of straightening the usually bent rear brace

SuperBuickGuy

weld frame to make square..... and beat on frame....


along with hanging weights, I did some flame wrench straightening .... frame is dead nuts square, but it has a slight rack to it (thus the weights)


someone told me once that it wasn't possible to shim the side pipes up with washers..... to that person, don't look


the problem, it turns out, I'm fixing anyway with a new driver's side motor mount (so it clears the steering shaft


time to start welding plates on


other side