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Plastic Fantastic tew

Old 08-03-2017, 02:22 AM
  #41  
SuperBuickGuy
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Default heads are shaved



comparison to before
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Old 08-04-2017, 01:54 AM
  #42  
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a bit was accomplished on the motor
first step was put the dowels back in the block

and then set the gaskets on

a nice coating of dykem

then pull the crank

and set the heads on to mark them

and to verify clearance of the valves
not a lot but good enough

hmmm....I'm not sure, but I think these might cause a leak

waiting on gaskets so I can mark then blend the intake and do the porting

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Old 08-15-2017, 01:54 AM
  #43  
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transmission together


gasket - not so much, but useful for what I'm doing now..


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Old 08-16-2017, 12:59 AM
  #44  
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onward
time to start on the grinding (blech)

inventory.... no mandrels...
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Old 08-16-2017, 03:57 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
the head gasket. at zero the piston is still .027 away from the head
I think you are going to have some problems with only .027" piston to head clearance, especially since you plan to spin it up in RPM.. Tight squish is great, but with heavy big block pistons I think the heads and pistons are going to be getting well acquainted with each other.

I wouldn't go tighter than .035". On a big block that is already pressing it. I have my squish set at .034" but I have a smaller bore and my Ross ultralight flat top pistons with lightweight tapered wrist pins are way lighter than your domed big block pistons and larger wrist pins.

Mike
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Old 08-17-2017, 10:39 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by v2racing View Post
I think you are going to have some problems with only .027" piston to head clearance, especially since you plan to spin it up in RPM.. Tight squish is great, but with heavy big block pistons I think the heads and pistons are going to be getting well acquainted with each other.

I wouldn't go tighter than .035". On a big block that is already pressing it. I have my squish set at .034" but I have a smaller bore and my Ross ultralight flat top pistons with lightweight tapered wrist pins are way lighter than your domed big block pistons and larger wrist pins.

Mike
minimum squish for the bore size is .025. close? sure, but .002 is more then enough for a motor that is mostly race and has no expectation of more then 20k between rebuilds.
that's the first time I've ever heard of forged, speedpro pistons as being heavy. remember, I'm superBUICKguy. check out a straight 8 piston sometime not just that, but the entire assembly has been lightened. I'll have to look at what we lightened it to....
it will be fine - but it's a good reminder to anyone building an engine to check clearances. I'm more concerned that there could be issues with the .653 lift - my measuring says it should be fine to 1" (not the springs), but still...
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Old 08-17-2017, 07:02 PM
  #47  
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Stuff is gonna get real
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Old 08-21-2017, 01:48 AM
  #48  
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got the intake back after a .075 shave

set a carb on top mostly because I have a carb to set on top.... though it won't work as you see because it's got a boost referenced power valve
did some shimming to see if I could get away with .060 gaskets. Yes, yes I can


Once I get the gaskets, I'll start huffing aluminum.... I'm not excited to start this phase.
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Old 08-23-2017, 01:13 AM
  #49  
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So I worked on the motor a bit yesterday - mostly I decided to leave the heads alone then simply blend the intake into the ports.

the line illustrates about how much I need to take off. I have gaskets coming tomorrow (I don't need to shave the intake) then I'll blend and get to work assembling this little beastie
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Old 08-25-2017, 01:44 AM
  #50  
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talking a machinist yesterday (the one who shaved the heads and the intake) he suggested simply hogging out the holes
the problem

see the threads on the lower side? need to open up the hole so that doesn't happen
grind grind grind

looks like it worked

I need to do a bit of minor port matching, but it worked (yay, saved $200 in machine work)
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Old 08-27-2017, 12:58 AM
  #51  
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so now we know what the springs are.... not enough


my new spring tester
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Old 08-30-2017, 01:07 AM
  #52  
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to answer the question of if these springs will work... no, 350# springs

modified my spring compressor to make it more useful.... and it is
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Old 09-01-2017, 01:35 AM
  #53  
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Good news, meh news..... good news is the springs on the iron heads are 485 lb springs


bad news is the locks are for 3/8 valves


and the aluminum valves are 11/32


I may come back later and do a mea culpa* when I should have swapped to brand-name 3/8 valves... but I'm not going to - I blow it up and those higher-compression pistons I was thinking I would upgrade to will become a necessity - remember, I'm at 10.5:1 compression and I want at least 12:1... that said, the hot rod swap meet happens before race season restarts so those valves could happen still.... good thing I'm using a reuseable head gasket

*which is me saying "convince me to simply update now"... I think it'll be fine as long as I don't use this in anger - but I think those chinese valves with 11/32 stems are almost a guaranteed boom.... though I've kept sketchier things together by just practicing a bit of restraint...
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Old 09-08-2017, 01:05 AM
  #54  
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cam is here - I should start making some progress on screwing this all up.. errr.... together this weekend
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Old 09-08-2017, 02:44 AM
  #55  
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"You can do-it!"

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Old 09-10-2017, 09:41 PM
  #56  
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What fun is restraint? Put some better valves in it if you're worried about them...
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Old 09-12-2017, 01:51 AM
  #57  
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finally some progress.
clean it up

install the crank with a new rear seal

and that's all(ish) for tonight

​I ordered rockers and measured the studs on the other heads. rockers are on the raggity edge of max lift.... ah well, gotta live.
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Old 09-13-2017, 01:44 AM
  #58  
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so first a fright

notice the cam plate bolt holes? anyone want to hazard a guess as to whether or not a Gen 4 or Gen 5 cam and timing set is required? the block is an 89

fortunately, I have other stuff to do
I've finally given up - I'll buy the tapered ring compressors for all my builds - this one will work also with my Buick motor but I am not doing the hateful compressors again...

then I noticed that the numbers on the rods are not the same as the numbers on the pistons.... the seller told me that the marked numbers (yellow) matched the holes so I went with that - but the rod numbers do not. I'd love to hear why he didn't number the rods correctly (they were resized) oh well.. I'm sure when HRM takes this motor apart in a few years they'll make much ado about how the rods were on the wrong journal... to them I say "HA"

after number 2 I had to go do SAR stuff.... ah well, things are progressing
for those interested - Gen 4.... gave me a heart attack though when I saw that....there are no pedestals - which means that had I noticed before, I could have done away with the cam button.... ah well.
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Old 09-15-2017, 12:56 AM
  #59  
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onward




ugh.... now I have to think




I think I'll finish this bit later
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Old 09-22-2017, 01:11 AM
  #60  
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I added another holley carb to my collection - in reality, I think I'll use the body from my blower carb and the base (since I modified it) from this carb.... totally worth it to do

the aforementioned blower carb

right or wrong these were the decision. Stainless Elgin full roller rockers. Thought seriously about the aluminum but know that the guy with the 427 in his boat had nothing but trouble with them.... so here it is

maybe I should just stack this scoop on top of the current one....


2 degrees off. instead of 4 advanced it's 2 degrees advanced. close enough


so this is the bearing on the back to keep from eating into the block (and of more concern putting showers of iron in the oil)


most of the time tonight was spent adjusting to zero lash on the cam... but it's done




next issue is on the floor


I suppose I could fill the gap with silicone.....


I am concerned about oil pan clearance - not cross member because that's actually in front of the motor, but how close the pan is to the ground... ah well, if it was easy, Pirate 4x4 could do it.

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