doorgunner

That hood will be intake manifold/carb friendly!

SuperBuickGuy

As much as I'd love to keep boxes like this around - there just isn't the room.... Buick seems okay with it

remove bolts

try fitting for real... ugh


better

if anyone is curious who made it

notsobetter - I solved this with heat.... pictures tomorrow.


oh you must be kidding me - need to drill out the support to 5/16


they suggest hood pins.... I have hood pins


schnazzy, no?


I'd love to move it closer to the windshield but the pins would go straight through the wiper pivot


wonder how much faster it would be if I turned them to flow with the wind?


onto other issues.... non-adherence of the fender


cut, glue, clamp fixeded




time to work on the nose - now that I have the hood, I can make all of this solid


and spent some time getting the last of the paint off with aircraft remover (you can't see the aircraft so clearly it's worked)

verse 2

and the sail panels


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things that puzzle - why would you only seal up the driver's side?

SuperBuickGuy

sanded a bit today

then spent quality time looking for door bolts
then worked a few minutes on the front.... I have the actuators coming so maybe I can get this buttoned up
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SuperBuickGuy

more steps... time to figure out the angles and pull the buckets out



next day or so I'll be using those measurements to put the projection lights in


now big, gaping grill hole


I know it seems soon to buy these, but I need to do whatever bracing - that means hole drilling, something I hate doing in new paint


cringe - I suspect these will be the Waterloo of the lights - because it is exposed to the elements


I like, a lot


I did try to get it off without damage, but alas, no


I didn't damage the door, though, and that's a win


put the doors back on to re-set the gaps

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I got pretty close, a bit of tuning then the doors can come back off to finish stripping and do whatever the decision will be about widening this area


the gap is gone


I ran out of time, so it's not really fully on and lined up

SuperBuickGuy

door handles - ugh


whoa, pretty straight


and this is where I got stopped - there's a clip on the bottom that is not coming off - so rather then go with my next solution that involved a large, hole saw.... I stopped



shiny new parts - actuators


anyway, that's all for now
thanks for watching.

RBrid

Thanks for entertaining us.

SuperBuickGuy

abrcadabra it's off...... how, I have no flippin clue


shiney new part



experimenting with fitment


I had this metal from last time I built an adapter


too tall.... don't have 1/8" stainless


onto the next step of the process

I turned the bracket over to lower it - it's pretty close to where it needs to be

​​​​​​​next up will be fabrication brackets.

SuperBuickGuy

body work.... ugh




​​​​​​​lights, whee


trick is going to be how to make this happen... pop up or solid mount with lifting light cover?


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SuperBuickGuy

back to the car
I hate gaps


however it does mean shiney new tool


it's so cute


who knew you could convince a fiberglass door to move with a block of wood?

and it does

ring time

the start of the fix

I'm going to flush mount all of this.... the ring is to provide a good edge
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ugh back to gaps

I'm not looking forward to the sanding portion of this endeavor

doorgunner

I understand.....I'm still itching from reworking my door gaps

SuperBuickGuy

So it's time for Uncle SBG's story time

I sanded


the end

come back tomorrow for another exciting episode of as the DA turns.

SuperBuickGuy

time to fill the hole in the deck

looks to be about the right depth now

and fitting time *hack*

close

glued

not close

hmmm... is it supposed to veer off to the left? wonder what that would do for aero?

maybe I can counter balance that with a step on the right side?



hmmm.... glue it - nice to have lots of clamps


and as if by magic, it's now lined up.... if anyone asks, it was totally accidental and I have no idea what happened
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SuperBuickGuy

Time to Camaro-ize my Corvette. (I told a friend that I was doing this, his look was aghast at putting a Camaro rear end in a Corvette until I pointed out the year)


it is 4" wider per side - which corresponds nicely with the 4" flares


I'm pretty much doomed to upgrading the front because these brakes are large by huge


the basic is this - the front mounts will need a new mount welded to the back of that cross frame. The rear is in line with the frame, but I'm not sure how much of a step it is compared between the two.




another view


there's the difference in track width - I know, deep offset looks cool; center offset handles better


as for suspension. you'll know the moment I do. The Camaro is basically a coil-over, so if I weld a new mount plate - it would work, but I'm not sure how well so we will see - I may use a transverse spring....

SuperBuickGuy

I just ordered the C5 spindles for the front. I haven't, yet, decided whether or not I'll use stock C5 A-arms or build my own.... the fine print is I'm going to switch sides for the spindles then use the stock, C3 steering. If it really needs it, I'll add a borgeson box - but at this moment, I'm not convinced that the work required is worth the end result to make it rack and pinion...
I'm willing to listen to opinions but your opinions should have "and when I installed ___, this is what I found" ... I can google too, so I don't need rehashed google opinions (sorry, but it seems I more then my share of checkbook racers, so in an attempt to maintain peace, I provide some warning )

SuperBuickGuy

I can only imagine the aghast horror the ones who prefer restored cars would see in the following pictures. For that reason, the following is rated DON'T LOOK for NCRS contestants, judges, their wives or their serfs.

okay, again, NSFNCRS

we good? good

this, needs to fall out


nice, new brakes... that will never be used


today's tutorial.

How to remove trailing arms in 2 hours or less
first, loosen the outside nut and take all the cotter pins out (including the one that holds the shims in place)

then pry out the outer-most shims (it actually is pretty easy)

then cut the bolt on the outside
now move to the inside bolt, cut the head off

knock the head off with a air chisel

pry in, cut the bolt on the inside
remove.... this took - to this point, 3 hours.
If anyone needs a 3.36 gear rear.... it's for sale.


it seriously took more time to get the tools out and ready, I went through 2 blades - mostly because you're only using the very end.... I used them later.... see below
first fit without obstruction... well, the well boxes are obstructing


beside the boxes, problem 2 is apparent in this picture too


better seen here


I'll build a battery boxy for behind the passenger seat.... cap the rest


in all of this, getting windows tinted.... I hope he does a good job because I know hundreds of people who'll use him if he is

tinting booth



a few cars


but here's where I'm at now


I'm considering simply welding the entire structure in place.... it would be stronger and eliminate some bushings... as far as I can see, all the bolts would be accessible - which is why I have a production pause going on....

I think it looks pretty cool



I suspect I can use stock C7 wheels


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RBrid

When I saw you around noon you said you probably would not get much done today. I agree. Now stop slacking and get the ball rolling, jeez.

Metalhead140

Loving the Camaro rear end swap. Post lots of details on that for us!

SuperBuickGuy

and lots of pictures you'll get
So this set of pictures is after disconnecting the sway bar and seeing how close to perpendicular the axle is moving. I think, this is just a guess, but I think the mounts would be about 1 1/2 below the cross bar on the C3... no big deal to cut and re-shape, but that's my eduguess as to where this is going to end up
pictures

zero(ish) at full drop

3 degrees at full compression (which is about 2" into the tire so not going that far)

I know it seems like 4 but it was zeroed and moved before this picture....

that's about middle of the travel (it has roughly 6 inches maybe a touch more if pushed - which is kind of amazing itself since that's about 1 inch more then my H3 Hummer had on the front)


29" opening at full drop


If I was a snot, I'd not tell you that it's really easy to get the suspension where it needs to be....
level this bar - at ride height this bar must ABSOLUTELY be level.... the suspension is designed to toe in/toe out during travel - and it actually helps it turn, but it must be level otherwise steering inputs won't be predictable.


all that's left is rotating the axle so the tire goes (close to) straight up and down in the wheel opening. With that said, advanced suspension says you want the wheels to get closer together on the inside of the turn and wider on the outside.... HOWEVER, not too much otherwise you'll have to steer after every large bump... in this case, 1* is enough (which is back to my prediction as to the orientation of the axle as view from the side... tl;dr - front needs to go down about 1 1/2 inches, I think)

the tire size Custom Image Corvette designed the flares for is 28".... that means this is basically the most downward travel


Sunday I said I needed to take 1/4 inch off... no, it needs 1/2 inch




and knock that cussable front support off

done


and if you look really closely, you'll see the wheel is more centered


Thursday I'm going to start making front brackets then start pondering what the rear is going to look like. the last fun bit will be figuring out the coil over mount... there is an elegant solution for the driveshaft... but that you'll just have to wait to see

SuperBuickGuy

so I measured. 26x12.3 .... you'll see how I verified this at the end



oh an 9" backspace ... means I can use Z06 wheels
of course all things do not work perfectly the first time.... one hole was just a tad undersized.. easy fix on the drill press


1 degree difference - the transmission is 2.85 degrees


now to put it in place for permanence


trim, tack


knock apart,


tack again in the right spot


get the welds I can't reach from the bottom




and there it is... front is still on temp stands, but it should all be in place Sunday



hmmm,, I think these brakes are bigger then stock


verification.... fits








and yes, centered even




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SuperBuickGuy

Parts arrived...
clever solution (probably should have done the other one so I could use a smaller U-joint but this means I need to put enough motor in front of it to warrant the use of the 1350 u-joint... otherwise, I'll be laughed at).




these arrived too.... now all that's left is everything
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