SuperBuickGuy

so tonight I didn't have much time so it was time to dig in my stash of stuff and find a mini-starter, motor mounts, steel sfi flywheel, and oil pump stuff.... I also found some roller rockers that I forgot I had, though not for a BBC.
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I also found a second set of motor mounts...

SuperBuickGuy

I just couldn't leave that one in the block

pushrod checking length - as is normal, one of the checkers won't work because you can't get the jam nut past the guideplate

which lead to another issue... there's an interference between the head and the piston
cute,no?

the repair

see the straight edge? it's designed for the older, closed port heads

now it's all heart shaped.... and an interference.


yeah, precision work....
I'm still not sure I took enough off but until I get clay and check that along with the valve clearance, at least it doesn't hit on rotation. I'm going for .050 clearance

pretty, even with the missing tooth


the water pump is on because I can - not because I should

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doorgunner

You're "ironing out" the problems and making progress.....I'm jealous.

SuperBuickGuy

first things first.... replace the plug


then measure for new pushrods


verify that nothing is going to hit (and who says I'm not crafty?)




at least .0740 of clearance


verified both sides


stack it all together again


which brings the new problem.... I ordered the wrong head bolts, in case anyone is copying this - the heads are similar to a Profiler 18 or 24, so those are the head bolts to get. Ah well, it's all moving the right way

SuperBuickGuy

test fit time

with supervision

this was a bit spun up because a balloon went over....


hmmm, nice balance


let's try that again


take wheel off.... life is easier until I finally build a gantry


almost like GM planned it this way


part one was how tall of valve cover would fit


this is why there is a big hit on the header tube from OBX - still looks like crap


miles of room


and the other thing I needed to know - how much scoop


certainly won't be doing a tall filter but it looks like just enough clearance for my L88 scoop


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SuperBuickGuy

so, other then the DD distraction, parts are coming together to move forward ..
first, and oh how I loved the howl last time I changed the rag joint for a solid borgeson joint.... these are the bits to remove the power steering and the rag joint


and I got the pushrods


now it's time to start pulling the stuff down for the rest of this build




I'm sure someone, somewhere needs this cowl hood and wants to trade me for their flat one - so I can put a different scoop in it. The guy who did this did a reasonable job installing the scoop so it seems kind of a shame to cut it one up

SuperBuickGuy

the only thing interesting about this picture (other then the sweet flare) is this...


I hit the paint with 80 grit sand paper and it didn't even scratch the surface, but that duct tape took off a layer of paint in 10 minutes.

SuperBuickGuy

I was right, dammit, I was right. But before the details....

got the pins for the bellhousing


yes, extra long, not sure that's a good idea but it's what I've got


part of the day was cleaning the engine bay - which happened after the motor was removed


not terrible, but dirty


much better

after it dries, paint...

pulled the pan off to do the mods I need to finish on it


you'll note the engine doesn't have heads on it.... that's because the chinesium head bolts broke at 74 lbs....


I knew it. I knew I should have just bought ARP studs. They're $220 (that I would have had to buy twice because I would have bought the wrong ones first).... The chinese heads are profiler 24 heads that require a bit shorter outside bolts and 1" longer bolts across the top of the exhaust ports... ah well, I'm seriously just one crank away from having a complete 2nd BBC with all the spare parts.... did I mention that I was building another 427? this one is a gift for my dad and his 65 Chevelle SS (no telling).

SuperBuickGuy

started fixing the oil pan. I'm not sure I'm going to make it shallower however, I will fix the drain plug being an inch above the floor


yummy parts


and studs.... you know, I could occasionally bottle feed this


no torque, just snugged down


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SuperBuickGuy

heads are torqued down... next problem, 3/8" pushrods don't fit in 3/8" guides... grumble
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hey look, lifters finally in


oil pan mostly installed... need to tap that hole


moved the oil plug




started on the engine bay

SuperBuickGuy

today, remove such silly stuff as steering
first remove power part


it's in good shape (painted pretty)


move the tie rods to the manual hole


move the Buick to the Fiat hole, the the Fiat to the Corvette hole, then the Corvette to the lift




time to start cleaning it up


all of these have issues - but between the all, I think I have one good one


finish remove steering


pretty part... wrong one.... again, this is a 48 spline 1" and a 30 spline 3/4.... which is exactly what I didn't order


I did, however, get medieval getting it apart




so I'm kind of stopped there for a moment - no worries, there is much I can do.... what? well, you'll just have to tune in next time on As the Corvette Flops.

SuperBuickGuy

Apparently the old engine paint I had does not like brake clean


I have to paint anyway, so here it goes

yes, I painted aluminum aluminum color

shiney and orangey


cleared


tomorrow is all about the pressure washer under the car.... get it squeaky clean then shoot paint over it all.

SuperBuickGuy

time to clean the underneath




then the long part, dry it


finally got the guides so tomorrow night I may be able to finish assembly of the long block - of course, the other plan is to paint the underside
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RBrid

I'm sure you enjoyed that session tonight. Which product(s) are you using for the underside?

doorgunner

New paint

SuperBuickGuy

rustoleum

SuperBuickGuy

back to 427s


box of receipts, most importantly the lash adjustment (16,18)


shortened the dipstick so it reads accurately


lash adjustment


and yes, I need a touch taller valve cover

intake manifold glued in place


test fit the side pipes


it'll do


My goal is fired it a week from Sunday - that actually means driveable

SuperBuickGuy

bloody hell that was a pain to find.... no special-material-distributor gear required - this from Comp Cams web page http://www.compcams.com/Pages/402/camshaft-cores.aspx​

Street Roller Cam Cores (Hydraulic or Solid Roller)
(special material - works with most standard distributor gears)
01-000-8 CHEVROLET 454-502 Generation VI Big Block
07-000-8 CHEVROLET LT1 Engine
08-000-8 CHEVROLET 262-400 V8 with Roller Cam (1987-98)
09-000-8 CHEVROLET 4.3L V6 with Roller Cam (1987-98)
11-000-8 CHEVROLET 396-454 V8 (1967-96)
12-000-8 CHEVROLET 262-400 V8 (1957-98)
18-000-8 CHEVROLET 4.3L V6 (1985-99)
56-000-8 CHEVROLET 4.3L V6 (1992-99) with Balance Shaft

SuperBuickGuy

so a bit got done. First was get the balancer on - which meant taking it off because it wasn't fitting correctly


now it does and brake clean does wonders getting the paint off



I'm glad I test-fit the headers - I need to get medieval on this header otherwise the plug doesn't come out


I also did some test fitting


why have a box when you can have a sexy, shapely girl?

basically it's just sitting on there - so now I can daydream on how it all will fit together.


and some fitting is required (a lot)




How I ended up with 2 shifters is a mystery to me - but it's good because wretched excess is a good start.


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SuperBuickGuy

an occasional update
time for flares

add heat


and pop, off it comes


and the new sitting in place



time for an executive decision on where to splice this together


chop chop


The CIC flares don't wrap all the way under, nor does it maintain this edge - even if I fill it, I want the strength so here's what I did


and pop, off it comes




rough cut




seems to be going the right direction


I plan on filming a YouTube video of the second side when I do it, but here's the comparison to 'before'


now you can really see how much extra flare there is




and the back, again



a picture of how much of the back is bonded


I think I want the flares bonded in place before I finish the fuel system, which isn't a huge deal because it's really not going to be driveable for a bit longer