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I would like to start the engine in my 69 project. No dash, gas linkage, gas pedal etc. Just have some gas and oil. No coolant since I only want to run it for a few minutes. I have the battery positive to the starter and the battery ground. What other connections would I need to make to get a few min. (2/3 min.) of run time. I do have a remote starter that connects to what, I don't know. Any help would be great. It's been awhile and I am a little slow.
Thank You
RVZIO
I would like to start the engine in my 69 project. No dash, gas linkage, gas pedal etc. Just have some gas and oil. No coolant since I only want to run it for a few minutes. I have the battery positive to the starter and the battery ground. What other connections would I need to make to get a few min. (2/3 min.) of run time. I do have a remote starter that connects to what, I don't know. Any help would be great. It's been awhile and I am a little slow.
Thank You
RVZIO
Okay Moderator, there does not seem to be anyone knowledgeable enough to respond, so at your convenience please remove this post or just let it die.
Thank You
RVZIO
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Sorry I was late to the show. You need to have power to the coil and power to the starter. If you can connect the ground to your started and the battery power as well then you just need a constant power to the positive side of the coil and a good ground back to the battery. You could use a separate small motorcycle battery for the coil or run jumpers from your battery. Once it fires just pull the coil power to kill it. As for the remote start it usually goes from the positive power post to the positive side of the solenoid.
Get everything setup and secured so it doesn't fall off the fenders or into the fan or something, make sure there's nothing near the carb intake and give the starter a squeeze to see if the motor spins. Once that is ready then hook up the coil and start it right away so you don't burn up your points.
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Mar 28, 2017 at 07:49 AM.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
If you had the engine apart and it's got fresh internals you can buy a rod or make one to go down in the distributor hole to prime the oil system so your not oil starving it
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Mar 28, 2017 at 08:09 AM.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I reread your post. Do you have the wires connected to your alternator? Any wires that potentially could have power on them you should tape the ends of if your not ready to connect them. Burning up fusible links will be bad(editted). You dont want any sparks surprising you either. if you dont have fuel in your tank or the plumbing isnt connected you need to run a fuel line from your pump into a spare fuel can. It may be easier to hook up the tank than rig up something for gas. You dont need the fan belts or anything like that but you need the timing chain cover on to prevent oil from making a mess. At a minimum you need you exhaust manifolds bolted on but i suggest getting the down pipes connected at least so you can here whats going on. Best to have the full exhaust so you can hear the motor.
Sorry I was late to the show. You need to have power to the coil and power to the starter. If you can connect the ground to your started and the battery power as well then you just need a constant power to the positive side of the coil and a good ground back to the battery. You could use a separate small motorcycle battery for the coil or run jumpers from your battery. Once it fires just pull the coil power to kill it. As for the remote start it usually goes from the positive power post to the positive side of the solenoid.
Get everything setup and secured so it doesn't fall off the fenders or into the fan or something, make sure there's nothing near the carb intake and give the starter a squeeze to see if the motor spins. Once that is ready then hook up the coil and start it right away so you don't burn up your points.
Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
If you had the engine apart and it's got fresh internals you can buy a rod or make one to go down in the distributor hole to prime the oil system so your not oil starving it
Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
I reread your post. Do you have the wires connected to your alternator? Any wires that potentially could have power on them you should tape the ends of if your not ready to connect them. Burning up fusible links will be bad(editted). You dont want any sparks surprising you either. if you dont have fuel in your tank or the plumbing isnt connected you need to run a fuel line from your pump into a spare fuel can. It may be easier to hook up the tank than rig up something for gas. You dont need the fan belts or anything like that but you need the timing chain cover on to prevent oil from making a mess. At a minimum you need you exhaust manifolds bolted on but i suggest getting the down pipes connected at least so you can here whats going on. Best to have the full exhaust so you can hear the motor.
Originally Posted by terrys6t8roadster
Cap the oil port for the oil pressure guage. Good to hear its almost a runner. T
Now we 're talking. Thank you so much for your info. Just excited to get this far and probably need to wait a little for members to chime in.
Okay, Motor primed with oil
Battery in proper location with proper cables
Oil sender plugged
A.I.R. plugged exhaust manifolds
Horn relay and alternator connected
Coil positive connected
Remote starter connected to starter battery side and S on starter
If you had the engine apart and it's got fresh internals you can buy a rod or make one to go down in the distributor hole to prime the oil system so your not oil starving it
Agree
it is a MUST to prime the engine oil, you want to see oil coming out of all 16 push rods and running down onto the valve springs
Agree
it is a MUST to prime the engine oil, you want to see oil coming out of all 16 push rods and running down onto the valve springs
............................ tom
Thanks Tom, the engine had about 1k miles on it so I only pulled the heads to confirm the 30 over. I did pull the pan and discovered it was a 4 bolt main not 2 bolt which base motors had. I will make sure of proper oil pressure occurs.
RVZIO
I think I should dissconnect the horn relay and alternator wires and tape them off since I have no fuses in. Should that be done in someones opinion or just leave them connected.
RVZIO
rvzio
i highly recommend rotating engine while priming the oil
can do this by hand with breaker bar & socket on the balancer bolt or by bumping the starter in shorts burst - a few rotations at a time not constantly doing this assures that oil is circulated completely
Okay I have done all things suggested and the car is clicking like a dead battery. I have heard that sound all to many times so I will get a new battery and install. Be back later with the results.
RVZIO
Okay I have done all things suggested and the car is clicking like a dead battery. I have heard that sound all to many times so I will get a new battery and install. Be back later with the results.
RVZIO
I'm a little further along in my build than you since I have my dash in and all the wiring connected, but I'm at the same stage as you regarding the engine start. I primed mine with oil the other day and turned the motor over by hand as recommended. It went well and oil is circulating through the engine very well. I only had a 3/8 drill and it was sure smoking. Good thing it was a cheap Harbor Freight drill that I've had for a while. Now is the fun part installing all the belts, fan, alternator, fuel line and carburetor. It's taken some time to get to this point, but it's kind of exciting knowing that the engine will be running soon. Good luck with yours. I plan on posting a video when I fire it up.
I'm a little further along in my build than you since I have my dash in and all the wiring connected, but I'm at the same stage as you regarding the engine start. I primed mine with oil the other day and turned the motor over by hand as recommended. It went well and oil is circulating through the engine very well. I only had a 3/8 drill and it was sure smoking. Good thing it was a cheap Harbor Freight drill that I've had for a while. Now is the fun part installing all the belts, fan, alternator, fuel line and carburetor. It's taken some time to get to this point, but it's kind of exciting knowing that the engine will be running soon. Good luck with yours. I plan on posting a video when I fire it up.
hey Sullyman, I also would like to post a video but not sure how to do that from my phone. Anyway, I have the wiring harness installed, alternator, horn relay, coil, starter. I not sure if I could just start the car with the key. Maybe a couple of fuses?? Not sure any thoughts!
RVZIO
I would think you'd have to have your dash harness installed along with the fuse block. It seems as though you could install the steering column and use the ignition switch. Mine is a 68 so I'm not sure about yours either. The remote starter is a nice thing to have though.
it is safer to just bypass the car harness, connect to the basics= starter,
supply power to ignition, and a remote start switch.
keep in mind you need a way to shutoff, by removing battery cable, or igintion wire.
This way you can concentrate on starting motor.
and not figuring out where power is or not.
add a few mechanical gauges if you got them.
Boy this is getting a little frustrating. I have seen where guys have started engines on a stand, tire even the ground. I must be missing something. I put a new battery in since the old one had not seen running time for 4 years. Dropped it in the bin hook up the cables. Went to the starter put my remote switch ont the power and the S terminal. The other terminal (yellow) runs to the + side of the coil. Nothing, If I do jumpers from the battery to the coil, nothing. Does the start need more ground then that black wire that connects to one of the bolts holding the stater. Maybe the remote goes to the yellow or + side of the coil?