joewill

what media do you use and how long do you tumble?
i bought a tumbler from harbor freight.. not the drum type though, the shaker type...
perhaps its my lack of patience, but I don't get anywhere near that result.

yes, i just hit my cleaned bolts with semigloss clear spray.. stops the rust.

USAFVeteran

I bought a sonic cleaner from Harbor Freight, and I have a tumbler for my reloading. I use walnut shells in the tumbler, and a cleaner for brass in the sonic cleaner. The make many solutions for the sonic cleaner, pick what you need for your job, I'm only doing reloading.


After the sonic cleaner, I put them in the tumbler for about an hour, and my brass is completely clean, very close to new brass, even the primer pockets are clean.


That sonic cleaner is very good, but if I was to use mine for bolts, I think I'd use some brake clean to remove the grease as much as I could to keep my solution as clean as possible for as long as I could.

hicswa

Yes, I too would like to know since now that you tumbled off the protective coating (zinc, phosphate)what is the plan to keep them from turning to rust the first humid day?

Thanks,
Danny

USAFVeteran

I'm not doing bolts, I'm reloading. You might be better off to ask one of the guys that's actually cleaning the bolts.


But, if I was cleaning bolts like this thread suggests, I'd have some WD-40 until I was going to use them, and or paint them for use.


And, I don't think that a sonic cleaner would remove any chemically applied coating, unless you put it in for 30 minutes (or more), but a cleaning cycle only takes about 5-8 minutes.

kingkohlmn

Wouldn't a media blaster (sand, beads etc) be faster?

Mr D.

Well you have four options when it comes to hardware during a restoration.

1) Wire wheel on a bench grinder
2) Tumbler and media
3) Out source to a platter.
4) Buy new

I have done all four and # 1 & 2 are time consuming and don't always produce the desired results. #3 & 4 seem to run about the same price and again #3 doesn't always produce the desired results.

It comes down to time vs. money saved vs. desired results vs. NCRS judging. You have to weigh all the above and make the call on what's best for you.

For me on a non judged car I will make up a list that consists of all new hardware and rubber for the rolling chassis and drop that is one order. Last restoration for this option was $2,605.53

If re-using hardware you can cut that cost down to the price of a handful of rubber items and some paint. Think about it, even on a 125K mile chassis that hasn't seen the road since the mid 80's the only thing that is really bad is anything rubber. All the rest can be cleaned, repacked, re-shimmed ETC.

Not sure yet what direction I will head in on the 71 but I do like a factory fresh looking chassis with new nuts and bolts. I might do a combination of #1,2,4

D

hicswa

My bad. The question was for the thread starter. However, I understand the sonic won't remove the finish but the tumbler well. so that is what I am curious with.

USAFVeteran

No problem, I don't know that I would need to tumble any bolts after the sonic cleaner. If you cleaned them with brake clean to remove the big grease, I think that sonic cleaner may do the trick. But, like you, I'll wait to see if this is true with the OP.

USAFVeteran

It definitely would, but it would take off any factory chemical coating.

AllC34Me

I have used three different media's in the tumbler. First I ever used was the Harbor Freight Ceramic Green Pyramid media. Works well to cut the crud off but not the best for polishing the finish. Second one I have used is a black 80 grit metallic powder. Didn't work as well as I liked so I have stopped using that one. Third one, and my preferred media is a 70 Grit Glass Bead I got which works well on fine cleaning. Total tumble time depends on how rusty they are so now I have added a soaking station for greasy parts, and a soaking station for rusty parts. Really helps reduce the tumbling time.

Afterwards I sometimes soak the nuts and bolts in an oil based product like bicycle chain lube. That penetrates the nuts and bolts and it also prevents corrosion of the parts.

Its not a perfect science but it is a lot of fun to see these nasty parts coming back to life.



David

AllC34Me

It would probably be just as effective once you get the grease and dirt removed. Nobody wants grease to mix in their media for sure. I don't own a blast cabinet and my back limits how long I can bend over even if I had one, so this is a set it and forget it solution for me. Allows me to multi-task.

David

AllC34Me

Most of what I am working with has that already gone, but I understand your point. I am not doing this for NCRS builds so losing that coating isn't a concern for me. Cleaning them well enough to put back into service, is.
Hope that helps.
David

AllC34Me

I don't have a sonic cleaner and I don't handle brake cleaner typically to do this kind of work. VOC's can and are an issue. Only way I would use brake cleaner is with a correct mask in a well ventilated area. My little tumbling station is in my basement where those brake VOC's are not welcomed. I'm not saying that won't work well for anyone, I'm just saying it wouldn't be a viable solution for me.
Thanks for asking.
David

AllC34Me

Latest batch of small parts to come out of the media tumbler using Glass Bead 70 Grit.



The valve cover parts will be painted Corvette Orange and be put back into service.

The lug nuts will have their threads cleared, soak them in bicycle oil, put them aside for use on my 69 chassis later.

The mirror brackets will be clear coated and put aside for use late, as will the emergency brake bracket.

Front spindle washers, not sure yet, thinking.

Thanks for watching.

David

USAFVeteran

I don't know about you, but I never use brake clean spray can in an enclosed area. And I never said what kind of personal protective gear I use. I honestly thought that was a common sense thing, that we would all use it, gloves, mask, safety glasses. I guess working in and around the USAF for 42 years has me taking safety for granted, and thinking everybody else does as well.


And they make a brake clean for you worried folks that's VOC compliant. Look for it on the car parts store shelves

AllC34Me

Me, no, others, maybe. That stuff will ruin the lining of your lungs in short order for sure. Safety first, I agree.

USAFVeteran

I became a painter in the Air Force in early 1975, and we had little more than paper masks back then. And we painted polyurethane by the hundreds of gallons every week.


I've been stationed at bases that were closed due to contamination. I could continue, but I won't. I'm just waiting for the symptoms to show up for all the chemicals I've been exposed to. That's why I take almost every precaution that I can now, I don't need to compound what's already in my body.

AllC34Me

My exposure in the Navy was to asbestos. Like you I am waiting and hoping I didn't do more damage than my body was able to overcome on its own. Hence my ban on VOC's including paints without a really good filtered mask. Thanks for your service.

kdf1986

Thanks for the post. I had heard about this, but with your photos I can now see that this is something that I can use. I plan on using getting one and the media at my next tool run.

kdf

kdf1986

I picked up the tumbler this past Sunday. I already have it running with various rusted bolts nuts and washers. Its taking longer than I expected because I keep turning it off to check the progress!!. I have to just let it run for a while and leave it alone. But I can already see improvements on many of the bolts.

Thanks for bringing this up and showing the photos.

kdf