bigredbrad

Have watched the Al Knoch DVD about 15 times, but there are things that he just skips over. Im surprised with the amount of Corvettes, I cant find any other tutorials, photos or online advice on C3 (or even C2) Corvettes.

Any links, pics or advice is appreciated. Top pads are installed, tomorrow we start stapling and gluing!

thank you

bigredbrad

bj1k

I'm surprised that you are not happy with the Al Knoch DVD . It's the only thing that he did right in my opinion. Even though he used to do things right back when he did this video I would never endorse his products today , but I think this DVD covers everything very well . What is it that you think needs covered more ? All I would suggest to you is buy a good quality rear bow weatherstrip ( Not an import ) or you will probably never get it in the rear bow groove . The imports are junk .

bigredbrad

Front header wrap, glue, front header corner area, tabs under first side glass weatherstrip, vertical top - frame area under weatherstrip, tension, etc.

Some things that he seems to skip over which Im sure are second nature to him, could be better explained. Also, Im guessing the dvd is 25+ years ago, the bow pads he sells today are quite different than what he shows in the video.

He finishes off by saying that all the wrinkles can come out with a steam machine. Who has one of those in the garage? Also, I have to laugh at him setting a giant kerosene heater on the decklid...

I just figured as much information as there is on this forum, someone had documented it with photos that are easier to examine than watching a grainy video tape that has been copied to dvd.

bigredbrad

radiotexas

Rear bow groove/channel. Be very very careful how you end up on each side at the upright ends of the groove. If it's not a good length/fit, you'll have the sharp vertical corners dangerously close to punching thru your brand new top.
Professor Bob, School of Hard Knocks

bj1k

He shows how to mark the front with chalk on the edge where the top material wraps over the front edge . pull it tight when you do that but make sure the top is latched down when you do it . There are two flaps , one on each front side for alignment . Just pull them down until the top bead is running straight and parallel to the side glass , wrap it around and glue in place with a good contact cement . I use DAP Weldwood but When I buy a new can I like to let the lid off of it periodically to let it evaporate a little and thicken . ( Holds better ) . The front tension is determined by pulling it tight when you mark it and as he describes pulling just past the chalk marks when stapling. He also describes how to pull the window straight up keeping all wrinkles out side to side when stapling. You will pull out any side wrinkles when you glue the side flaps at the rear of the side glass and bolt the side weatherstrips on to hold them in place . I never had the need for the big heater on the rear deck if you have bought a good brand of convertible top like a Robbins . The windows are always wrinkle free. In fact there is usually very little need for any kind of heat except maybe a couple minor wrinkles in the sides from the top being stored in a package for shipping . Most minor wrinkles will come out when you sit the car out in the sun with the top up and latched on a hot day. You didn't mention what brand convertible top that you have . If it is Al Knoch and it looks too short or doesn't fit correct , it is probably not you . It is the top.

bigredbrad

thanks BJ1k,

Yes, I have the dap weldwood, its some amazing stuff - thats what I use for weatherstrip. The rear window bow (not the decklid) seems awful deep to get the stapler down in deep to staple the front and rear seam before putting in the wire on. How did you deal with that? Staple length?

Appreciate your other advice on the corner tabs. Was just hoping for some photos somewhere to confirm what I watched Al do in the video.

bigredbrad

suprkoop

wish I would have seen this a day earlier, I would not have purchased his video.... the instant download one..... that I still haven't gotten the link to download but they got my money.... instantly.....

maybe he should rename it to downloadable someday video....

bj1k

The stock tack strips are a little deeper than the aftermarket strips but it still is not a problem if you are putting the stapler in on an angle. You should be using 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch staples depending where you are stapling. I use the 3/8 above the window because you are going through two layers of top material and the wire on . Tap the staples level with a tack hammer after they are all in. If you are using an Arrow stapler it will be necessary because they will not penetrate all of the way .

bj1k

That's right , he makes it look easy because he only brings his best tops that he has personally approved . He sells the rest to the general public. As I have said many times he used to make good products that I used myself but after getting several terrible tops from him and his I don't care attitude I switched to Robbins tops and have only got top quality tops "EVERY" time.

LRB

Sending you a PM. Just completed my convertible top which I purchased from AK and it went on very well.

bj1k

Congratulations , You rolled the dice and won . Or maybe you are not particular. I have no way of knowing . Myself , I deal with a company that is 100% all of the time. My time is too valuable !

LRB

Not particular...wow I know that when I called one supplier (Robbins tops), that the individual that I spoke with could not tell me what parts like the wire-on and front weather stripping even came with the top. They said it was only the top. I got great customer service from AK and appreciated their assistance. I will say the the company I dealt with was 100% for me.

bigredbrad

Got the back half installed yesterday. Now on to the front and sides

bigredbrad

Alan 71

Hi brb,
I think it looks good!
Do you feel like you have it under control?
Regards,
Alan

LRB

Looks great. Here are a few pictures of my finished product.

bj1k

Not trying to be critical of your work but wanted to point out what I have been saying . I'm sure you gave it your best effort. The material bunched ( wrinkled ) up above the side windows are caused by the person making the top not pulling the wrinkles out when sewing the edge beading on . It is impossible to pull all of the wrinkles out on those tops . Notice that the passenger side looks good when looking at it straight on but looking down from the rear you can see the wrinkles . Typical of those tops .

bigredbrad

Being a perfectionist with a horrible case of OCD, doing a job Ive never done before, I look at every wrinkle as if its the end of the world. I keep forgetting that the guys that built these cars 50 years ago slapped them together and never cared.

So far, so good, going to work on the front next week.

Thanks for the encouragement,

brb

Alan 71

Hi brb,
I learned a long time ago that doing something you've never done before is not a reason for not doing an excellent job.
"Better is the constant enemy of good!"
Carry On!
Regards,
Alan

bigredbrad

Thank you for the encouragement Alan. I was ready to have my local upholstery guy of 20 years do it for me, but he no longer does Corvettes. He says the owners are way to picky and he doesnt need the headaches. The next closest place is over 100 miles away, so I figured, it was worth a shot. More pics next week as we move forward.

bigredbrad

The13Bats

Im not trying to buttchap ak or his fans, but a 25 yo video needs to be updated,

When i called ak a few years ago about having them so my top at ncrs the lady acted like i needed to kiss their, then jump through this and that then call her back at a specific time, etc and they might do mine, for a few many times what locals charge, no thanks, i never have never will beg a company for my business,

So someone like bj or perhaps willcox should take the great info in the ak video and move to the next level with it,