f1rob

Hi Folks:

I want to pull out the rear spring outer bolts - the ones that go from the spring to the trailing arm.

Specifically, to be able to replace the bushings that have deteriorated.

It is easy enough to remove the nut at the bottom, but I cannot see how to actually lift the bolt out of the trailing arm, as it is blocked from above. Do I have to disassemble the trailing arm?

I have not been able to see in the AIM how this is done.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Rob

Andy Tuttle

I am not in your situation, but I dropped my entire rear end suspension and then pulled them out. Assuming your body is still on, so that may not work for you. Check with Doorgunner's post, I think he dropped his with the body on. I am sure he can help. Check out his thread.

bazza77

there is a hole above the bolt head that allows the long bolt to be pulled up and out. if you have a rear sway bar you might have to take the mount plate off to access it.

Just a heads up , there's a lot of stored energy in that spring so don't just undo the nut , there is a safe way to get it undone without breaking bones

Alan 71

Hi Rob,
Once the tension is off the spring the bolt comes out of the trailing arm very easily.
BUT, are you aware of what needs to be done BEFORE removing that spring bolt nut? Bazza's warning!
The end of the spring must be 'jacked' up until all weight is off the spring so the bolt can be removed and then the jack slowly lowered to allow the spring to return to it's 'unloaded' shape.
People do this in various ways. Here's one example using a floor jack.
BE CAREFUL with this.
Regards,
Alan

The c-clamp and block of wood prevents the jacking point from sliding toward the center of the car as the jack is raised to release the pressure.
In this case the spring is being raised so the bolt can be put in place.

maverickmk

In addition to Alan's post, the rear sway bar end links that bolt to the trailing arm need to be removed to get the bolts out.

Knerf

i just stuck a floor jack under mine as close to the bolt that still allowed me to reach it then took the pressure off it until i could move it by hand freely. you could do the c-clamp think alan suggests if you want to be a little more sturdy

Faster Rat

This is what can happen if you do not think about and pay attention to exactly what you are trying to accomplish. Ask me how I know this.

Alan 71

Hi,
I agree with FR. (and OUCH!!)
I care way to much about the car and my head to not be certain that the jack and spring are secure while the spring is being raised and lowered.
The same type of caution applies when working on the front coil springs.
Regards,
Alan

69monzacpe

If it's on the ground, the C-clamp trick with a block of wood to the inside (diff side) of a floor jack is the way to go. Place the floor jack between the C-clamp/wood block and the bolt, jack it up enough to relieve the pressure from the bolt and undo it. You'll need a wrench inside the end of the trailing arm to lock that end of the bolt from spinning, then just undo the lower nut. It will lift out through the top of the trailing arm. Make sure to position the jack far enough towards the diff side so that you can get the jack out after releasing the pressure on the spring.

Knerf

you phoning home with that finger? that thing is messed up ROFL

in all seriousness though, yes, safety first so you keep all your bits in one piece

i had a boss at a shop i used to work at that had a big ole spicer 5 speed fall on his hand and crush every bone in it, guy was one of the best mechanics i ever knew and had about 20% mobility in his hand after god knows how many surgeries to fix it. so if your not 100% satisfied with how something is holding up when you have to put your body under it redo it until you are, you should be able to shake it around pretty hard without a worry of it falling or coming off a jack, if you do worry redo it until you dont.