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Very Very nice , love the color , I'm also biased, I have the duplicate 70 .I'm interested on the power brake conversion.
Thanks, Ron. I'm actually taking a cue from your carpet install and using the frost king closed cell foam insulation for the front areas.
I'm really happy with the power brake conversion. I bought the kit from Zips for $328 shipped, which gets you the power booster, power master cylinder, brake switch striker, intake manifold vacuum fitting, and all hardware and hose. Two items to mention...the booster is a rebuilt unit, which I'm fine with, but it came with bare metal, not painted as shown in the ad. Took some time to prep and paint it. Second, depending on your vacuum setup, you may need a different vacuum fitting than the two port one that's included. My car's an automatic, so I had to source a 3 port fitting...large port for the booster and the other two for the transmission vacuum modulator and the headlights and wiper door.
Nice work! I particularly like the idea of using bed liner in the rear compartment. I know it isn't really visible but I have some repairs in my battery compartment and that makes it look even crappyer. This might be just the ticket.
We should do a local run down one of the reservoir roads like the one to Horseshoe Lakes. A good test for your suspension.
Great Info RJ , I'll look into it for the booster , I took mine out for it's 1st ride a few weeks ago and came back , white cloud of smoke beside the front wheel , the right front caliper was seized , so I'll re-build it and maybe order the booster . Thanks
PS I'm in for the Horseshoe lakes ride , but it may take me a few days to get to meet up with you guys I'm only 39 hours away .
I noticed the bag with the rubber plugs for the carpet , I tried like a SOB to put these in , lub the plugs and all and even made a special tool to push them in , well I have none in so far .
I noticed the bag with the rubber plugs for the carpet , I tried like a SOB to put these in , lub the plugs and all and even made a special tool to push them in , well I have none in so far .
They are a tight fit. I inserted a long Allen wrench through the hole in the middle and used that to push them in, while simultaneously rotating the angle of pressure. Tried to get one side's lip through the hole, rotate a little and repeat. Worked for me.
Not really sure why I woke up at 3 in the morning, but I'm wide awake. Maybe it's got to do with the thought of putting THIS all back together again.
I was working on getting the new carpet installed in the passenger side. Removed the seat, parking brake console, sill plate, kick panel, etc. Then started on the shift console. One thing leads to another, and before you know it...."Screw it, it's all got to come out and get cleaned, repaired, painted"... ad nauseum.
I found that the gauge bezel had been previously broken on one side at the thin part...after about 2 seconds, I was able to break the other side. Oops. I guess I'll be looking into repair or replacement options.
The stock stereo needed to come out anyway, as it never worked. The top was all oily, courtesy of a small leak at the oil pressure gauge fitting.
Most of the gauge light bulbs were burned out, so I'll replace those.
I'm sure I'll find more items needing attention as I go. Ain't it funny how one fairly simple carpet install project breeds 3 or 4 other projects?
Anyway, after the dust cleared, and I got things cleaned up, I was able to lay down some insulation, at least.
It'll be about a week and a half before I can do anything else. Taking a trip today to go back home for my brother's wedding, then a business trip next week.
Jesus , now I won't be able to sleep . I don't like electrical , on my 80 the heater main wire had a broken terminal right in the fuse box , it took me forever to get it apart, and 2yrs to find. I kept putting it off.
While that is out, I'll be converting to an electric oil gauge. The old one leaked all over the original radio, which was inoperable when I bought the car. Coincidence?
To add fuel to the fire, when I removed the old carpet in the driver's footwell, I found an old fiberglass repair that I think was done by a 6 year old.
Firewall side...
So, I'll be repairing that sometime soon, but it delays the whole new carpet thing.
I did manage to finish installing the carpet on the wall behind the seats and on the passenger foot well.
I decided to mount the seat belt, belt bracket, and seat track on top of the carpet, rather than making lots of cut outs. I also replaced the old bolts with black oxide button head bolts. I think this makes for a much cleaner look.
While that is out, I'll be converting to an electric oil gauge. The old one leaked all over the original radio, which was inoperable when I bought the car. Coincidence?
To add fuel to the fire, when I removed the old carpet in the driver's footwell, I found an old fiberglass repair that I think was done by a 6 year old.
Firewall side...
So, I'll be repairing that sometime soon, but it delays the whole new carpet thing.
I did manage to finish installing the carpet on the wall behind the seats and on the passenger foot well.
I decided to mount the seat belt, belt bracket, and seat track on top of the carpet, rather than making lots of cut outs. I also replaced the old bolts with black oxide button head bolts. I think this makes for a much cleaner look.
More to come!
Carpet looks real nice. Who did you get it from. The fit looks good from what we can see. What is your opinion!
RVZIO
Looks great , patience is the thing here , which I have none , but great job, I'm talking to a few vendor's about seats and door panels , I'm half a$$ thinking on doing the seat foams and covers myself.
Your seat belt bracket is different I don't have that I only have a threaded bolt hole on the sill side . Or is mine missing . I really don't like just the lap belts.
Carpet looks real nice. Who did you get it from. The fit looks good from what we can see. What is your opinion!
RVZIO
The carpet is ACC, but I sourced it through stockinteriors dot com.
I'm not saying the fit is perfect...and there's been another recent thread flaming the fit of ACC carpet. But, with some patience, massaging, careful trimming, and a bit of contact cement in strategic places, I've been happy with it. I think some of those who are unhappy with it maybe expect it to drop in place and adhere itself to the floor.
Originally Posted by RonR80
Your seat belt bracket is different I don't have that I only have a threaded bolt hole on the sill side . Or is mine missing . I really don't like just the lap belts.
Ron, that bracket has three mounting points...one at each "corner" of the triangle. #1 is on the floor, #2 and #3 are on the side of the sill. You can see them in one of my pics. Your car is a '70? I'm not sure what year they started with the retractors under the seats, which would of course have different mounting points.
I'm with you on the dislike of just lap belts. Any front end impact would put my face into the steering column.
I plan on adding headrests back on the seats, for a similar reason. Rear end impact would make me look like a Pez dispenser!
The carpet is ACC, but I sourced it through stockinteriors dot com.
I'm not saying the fit is perfect...and there's been another recent thread flaming the fit of ACC carpet. But, with some patience, massaging, careful trimming, and a bit of contact cement in strategic places, I've been happy with it. I think some of those who are unhappy with it maybe expect it to drop in place and adhere itself to the floor.
I also put ACC in a couple years ago. I thought it was fantastic and I'm very happy with it. The only issue I could think of is that it is very thin carpet so needs a good thick backing to make it appear stock looking as laid. I agree that it takes a little trimming but I didn't think that was a big deal
I had to make some cuts to the previous fiberglass repair patch to remove it, but most of it came out in one big chunk! I was mucho happy about that (saved me a bunch of grinding).
Guess this pic shows what kind of bond you get with poor prep work.
Footwell cleaned up. Getting ready to prep for the repair.
Taking a cue from DUB's thread in the body repair section, here's a backlit pic to show the extent of the cracks.
Got the repair section ground down. Cleaned it a couple times with acetone and let it dry. Then I taped the front side of the cracks to keep the VPA from oozing through to the outside. You can also see in this pic my little custom clamp to keep the cracked pieces in place. I used a couple threaded drywall anchors, some pieces of metal strapping, and some washers.
The first round of VPA has set up, allowing me to move my clamps to other areas and continue with the bonding process.
Now I've got the cracks stabilized and can remove the clamps. I'll grind the areas back down and VPA the holes where the clamps were at, then grind those areas smooth.
Next part of the process will be new fiberglass. Stay tuned!
I read what you wrote and I am assuming that I read what you wrote correctly....and that is that tou DID grind the inside of the floor board areas BEFORE you applied the VPA???
If YES...then GREAT!
Just to make it easier on you ( unless you already planned on doing it) II would grind the VPA flat as possible so you can apply the mat and resin a bit easier...instead of having humps and bumps in the VPA..which can cause for air pockets in your lamination IF the humps and bumps are big enough.
Thanks, Doorgunner. I'm anxious to get her back on the road!
Originally Posted by DUB
I read what you wrote and I am assuming that I read what you wrote correctly....and that is that you DID grind the inside of the floor board areas BEFORE you applied the VPA???
If YES...then GREAT!
Just to make it easier on you ( unless you already planned on doing it) II would grind the VPA flat as possible so you can apply the mat and resin a bit easier...instead of having humps and bumps in the VPA..which can cause for air pockets in your lamination IF the humps and bumps are big enough.
DUB
Yes, absolutely! I ground about 2" on either side of the cracks and beveled the edges of the cracks. I will also grind the VPA back flat and smooth BEFORE I start with the fiberglass.
Per your thread in the body section, I bought a Rolok fitting and abrasive pads for my angle grinder/drill and it was just the ticket.
Yes, absolutely! I ground about 2" on either side of the cracks and beveled the edges of the cracks. I will also grind the VPA back flat and smooth BEFORE I start with the fiberglass.
Per your thread in the body section, I bought a Rolok fitting and abrasive pads for my angle grinder/drill and it was just the ticket.
Rick
Rick,
Glad to read something I did here on the forum helped someone.
Seems that you are well on your way to getting this repaired and SOLID again.
05-30-2017, 10:38 AM
I guess I'll be looking into repair or replacement options.
