Darinm

I installed a new set of rotors and Wilwood D8-4s all the way around. After bleeding the brakes, my master cylinder started leaking around the base, so i ordered a new Wilwood master cylinder (260-8556-P). After bench bleeding the master cylinder and installing it, I bled all 4 corners per instructions from Wilwood. Right rear inside top then outside top with the calipers removed and bleeders facing up. Left rear removed, inside then outside bleeders, then front right inside then outside, last driver front inside bleeder than outside. I did this 2 times until clear fluid with no air bubbles came out.

Test drove it down the driveway and barely enough pedal pressure to stop the car. I Bled it a 3rd time, test drove it and again not enough pedal pressure to stop it.

I'm using the manual method of bleeding since my motive power bleeder cap wont fit the Wilwood cylinder.

Any ideas?

henrikse

I've read they are hard to bleed and some take up to 4 times to get a pedal. I would say to bleed them again. Are you using vacuum pump or somebody pumping the brakes?
I read an interesting article on gravity bleeding. Check it out on google. You must have air still.

Darinm

I tried a vacuum bleeder but it keeps grabbing air around the hose to bleeder connection. I'm now wondering if my master cylinder still has air in it. I'm considering removing it completely and bench bleeding it again.

Just found article on gravity bleeding. Reading it now.

sullyman56

I gravity bled the rear brakes on my 77 after changing out one of the trailing arms. Worked great.

cagotzmann

I have the same wildwood calipers.

YOU CANNOT BLEED the rear wildwood D8-4 calipers mounted on the car.

I removed the units placed a block between the pads to simulate the rotor width. Stood them on end and bleed them.

The rear calipers don't have enough angle to properly bleed all the air out. Air is trapped in the caliper bore when it sits near horizontal.

The front I found worked / bleed ok mounted on the car.

I made a custom steel plate and clamped it to the master cylinder. Added a air fitting to connect my air compressor. Set for 15 PSI and then bleed the calipers. Only thing here you can only bleed a few times before you need to fill the master cylinder again.

Darinm

Yes, i read that in the instructions which make sense. I did remove the rears for bleeding.

I'm going to try it again this morning from scratch removing the master cylinder and bench bleeding it again. Then removing the rear calipers and gravity bleeding. If this doesn't work, i'm going to order an adapter plate for my Motive products power bleeder that will fit the Wilwood master cylinder. If that doesn't work, then i'll cry uncle :-(

Darinm

after bench bleeding, there was a ton of air in the Master Cylinder. I re-installed it and have great pedal pressure. After grocery shopping this morning, i will driveway test it, but so far positive results !

mchar

Good News!

Darinm

Well, after test driving and bedding in the new pads. I can stop the car now, but still cannot lock up the brakes. Pedal is nice and firm so i suspect there is still some air in the line. So next weekend, i'll plan on gravity bleeding them.