NewbVetteGuy

Per the title, I've had my VB&P 360 lb composite spring with 10" lowering bolts for a while, Bilstein Sports (rear only for now) just showed up today, what other bushings / parts would I be wise to additionally replace on my 79 Vette that hasn't had any of these parts ever touched / replaced?



Note: My car is very low mileage (15k) so parts that generally wear out due to mileage and not age are generally worn on my car.

Adam

kdlp

Hey Adam,

It's been my experience that rubber parts deteriorate with age more than mileage so if nothing has been touched since it was built, I'd be looking at everything rubber. If the car was garaged (climate controlled) and cared for, you might get lucky but I'd be looking for cracks and pits in anything rubber, particularly underneath.

One of the reasons that poly bushings began to replace rubber is that they don't deteriorate as badly with age. I am NOT suggesting using poly when you replace things (although it's a consideration.) I used a combination of rubber and poly when I did my rebuild. All my suspension bits are poly (though I used rubber in my trailing arms) ... and I used rubber everywhere else (Trans, Engine Mounts, Body.) If you do use poly be sure to use the provided grease when installing them or you'll have a squeaky machine.

With just 15K on the clock you might want to stay with OEM (rubber) type bushings to maintain originality.

BTW, had the pleasure of hearing the Beach Boys in concert at the Winery there in Woodinville a few years back... struck me as a beautiful place to do some serious Corvette Cruisin'!

Good Luck with your project!

kdlp

NewbVetteGuy

Thanks KDLP, and I agree with replacing any rubber parts with poly where it makes sense. The problem is that just like my forum name, I'm a newb and I don't know what related, nearby rubber parts even exist that I should be replacing while I'm in the process of replacing the rear leaf spring and installing the rear shocks.


I'm essentially posting this question here to get a list of items to purchase so I can do all of this at once because everything I do on my car takes about 10x as much time as most other people on here so I just want to do it all at once and get it done with.



Adam

kdlp

Adam,

I'd suggest you get a copy of the Corvette Assembly Manual for your year. The exploded pics will show you what you need. (Plus, you'll be surprised at how many times you'll use it for other things.)

Try a "Google' search for "C3 Corvette Suspension" and you'll get a bunch of companies with entire bushing packages (both poly and rubber). Many of them are Forum advertisers/supporter's and some of them have online video that will coach you on install, etc.

You might also check this: http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/cha...your-corvette/

And finally, search this forum... every time I get hung up on a Vette problem I find out a little something right here with a search. It isn't always the answer I want to hear... but it does help refine the solution.

kdlp

Metalhead140

Rubber parts in the rear you should definitely look at while you're there:
- front diff mount
- trailing arm bushes
- strut rod bushings (consider aftermarket strut rod kits, particularly if your strut rods are bent - Heim joint strut rods are a popular option).

Sunracer

After all these years the grease in the half shaft u-joints ought to be worth checking.

NewbVetteGuy

Half shaft u-joints were replaced about a year ago. Drive shaft U-joints when I had the 4L60e trans swap done a couple months back. So finally there's something I don't need to replace!

Thanks, though!


Adam

NewbVetteGuy

This really is spiraling out of control rather rapidly.

I just wanted to replace the OEM gymkhana spring for a lighter weight composite spring with 8" bolts to lower the rear end a bit. BUT, then I found out I needed to replace my OEM-style shocks as they're not remotely matched.

Now I'm finding out that removing the bottom of the shock from the shock mount is likely to take me to the 6th ring of hell to remove it and I'm likely to destroy the shock mount and will need new shock mounts and shock mount grommets, strut rod bushings, and aftermarket strut rods while I'm at it, ideally. If I go with new strut rods I want to do the Smart Struts ($252 after CF discount) and I should probably replace the differential mount bushing and do the $45 cross member reinforcing kit while I'm in there?!!?

*Sigh* That escalated quickly....

I need to find a neighbor who will let me ship stuff to their house so my wife doesn't find out; lol!


Adam

NewbVetteGuy

After eleventy gazillion requests that I buy an AIM, I finally found one for a decent price -reprinted but $26 shipped on Ebay!


Adam

Metalhead140

I had no problem with my shock mounts, I imagine with your low mileage, unless it is rusty underneath, that yours will probably be ok too.

You asked about rubber parts, and those are the rubber parts. If your strut rods are fine, given you're probably buying a bushing kit anyway, no problem to just replace the bushings for now - it's what I've done. They're easily changed out later if you wish. I did forget to mention your sway bar bushes.

The trailing arm bushes - if your car is a bit rough underneath these can reportedly be hell. But on my '79, which is very clean underneath despite a bit over 100,000 miles, I was able to undo and remove the bolts without difficulty, replace the bushes, and bolt them back in. Note you need a press for most of the trailing arm bushes on the market.

If you just want to replace the spring and shocks for now, there's no reason you can't do that. I think most of us just prefer to pull it apart once and sort out everything that needs doing, and not have to revisit the job later. The springs and shocks can be done without dismantling much else, so no great harm in doing just those for now and getting to the rest of the rear suspension later. But I expect that your bushings will need replacing, if not now, then soon after you start driving the car - the rubber will be dead just from age.

AboveTheLogic

Closely inspect the lower rear shock mounts if you remove them. The splines in mine were smoothed out from removal. As a result, one turned in its socket and let my brand new bilstein shock fall out and dangle against the spring while I bounced down the road.

I replaced them with new ones and it wasn't until I saw the new ones when I noticed the splines and realized how important they were. They were not that expensive.

NewbVetteGuy

I do have a bit of rust; you're actually the first person I've heard who had no problems with them but I guess I can be hopeful.

Having said all that; if it gets stuck, cutting the strut seems to be the most stress-free way to get it off in a hurry if 24 hours with penetrating oil and a BFH doesn't work.


I think I'll just add the requisite rubber parts and new shock mounts to my list and leave the stock struts in place until after the fuel injection conversion and top-end upgrade is complete.



Adam

NewbVetteGuy

I'd like to revisit the statement above. I hear regularly that poly bushings in general require some sort of "press" what the heck is this press that I need?

Can anyone post a link to a picture or something?


Adam

NewbVetteGuy

I'm going to call VB&P in 5 min- if they're still open as I've got a few questions left.


#1. Strut Rod Bushings They're available as 1 3/8" and 1 3/16" -the description of both on the VB&P site says that they're both "OEM replacements" -except that they're poly- how the heck do I know which size I need?!?!?

#2. Sway Bar Bushings They seem only available with the bolts for some reason (don't understand that part) but between Poly and upgrading to adjustable with Delrin for $28??? Adjustability for $3 seems like a good idea; not that I know what I'm doing enough to actually adjust them now...

#3. Poly Differential Mounting Bushing After 40 years with the stock rubber one I'm SURE I need one and I'm pretty sure this is why things seem to flex all crazy when I put the car into drive--- I'm a bit concerned at how difficult installing this is going to be for a guy with minimal tools, a single jack and generally no one to help me, but I need it so I'm buying it.


#4. Spring Cushions The poly set of $17 is a no brainer- I actually have no questions on this one! (Shocker!)



Adam

NewbVetteGuy

Oh yea- anyone have the VB&P Coupon Code for CF members? -I can't find the dang thing!


Adam

mrvette

When you remove/cut the bolts holding the t-arms in place, you will note the shims on both sides of each arm and a long cotter pin holding them in place, in case the pivot bolt comes loose...now here is the trick most of them shims are rusted up badly and will need be changed as the alignment is done for the new rubber/poly on the arms....Stainless shims are available in kit form....more $$$$.....

also the lower struts have rubber in them...replace with POLY or new style adjustable rods.....

check the upper/lower front A arm bushings too....dry rot....grease the ball joints and tie rod ends.....

NewbVetteGuy

I am only doing the rear and I'm not planning on touching the trailing arms. I know one side is in need of new bushings but my guy said it's not terrible and the labor costs will be so I'm holding off...


I'm just replacing the rear spring and shocks and the bushing associated with the rear spring, shocks, rear sway bar, and the differential at the moment.


Adam

NewbVetteGuy

I finally got all this ordered.


For anyone else looking to replace all the rear-end rubber parts (I did not replace the trailing arm bushings; they're too horrific to think about and there's no way in heck I'm doing those myself) here's a list from VB&P:

• Strut Rod Bushings 1 3/8" for my 79 Part #32051 $33.99 as of today
• Sway bar bushings (poly; non-adjustable) for stock F41 Gymkhana rear sway bar: #88199 $25 as of today
• Rear Spring Cushions- poly (I only needed the cushions; I've got the oem washers in good shape): #42304 -set of 4 $16.99
• Poly Differential Mounting Bushing (I'm pretty sure I need one and as long as I'm taking all of the rest of this apart; might as well do it while I'm in there; PN-31040 $32
• Poly Shock Mount Grommets- no idea whether these come with my Bilstein Sports or not but VB&P says no so #31001 $10
• Shock Mount Removal Tool- cause I don't already have one #51603 $13.99

I considered the cross member reinforcing kit, but I'll do that later when I get to the smart struts after the engine and EFI conversion are done.


Adam

Richard Daugird

I will be doing this too as soon as the new engine is installed I start breaking stuff back there.

rogernison

Probably a day or more late, but this is what I did when I removed my shock mounts. Take the castle nut off of the shock mount reverse it and thread it back on the shock mount until it is flust with the end of the shock mount.
Use a dead blow or lead hammer to knock it loose. No special tool needed.
Worked for me & no thread damage.