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Yeah, only real way to do it is to remove the center cluster because stock radios are so huge. I'm in the process of this myself. I had an aftermarket radio from PO and removed it about 10 years ago without having to take out the cluster. So I've not had tunes for several years. I've since fixed the orig. stock radio (PO saved it fortunately) and re-wired the harness, etc.. it works minus the engine noise coming through which I've found on here is likely related to my ignition/dist. shielding not being present (yeah... another thing to replace, thanks Bubba).
Not necessarily sure it's the "easiest" pulling the center cluster... I started doing it and got worried I was going to break some of the brittle plastic on the bottom trim around the heater controls and am going to have to remove more of my interior than I wanted. PO must have slightly ripped the dash when pulling it out before with the center light, but fortunately not visible with the cluster trim back in place (so be careful). Then while I'm at it, I probably have some other things to fix because it's a PITA to remove all that (i.e. clock to quartz probably, change out bulbs, etc). Rather not just pull half my car apart more than necessary.
Last edited by raydog9379; 04-27-2017 at 10:33 AM.
Yup, I'd say the best way is to take the center cluster out. you need to remove the side panels from the console, then there are some hex head screws on the bottom of the cluster up under the console face that have to be accesed from underneath. of course the 2 screws you can see on both sides of the center cluster have to be removed. As I recall, I think I had to take the top panel off the console too, to have room to remove the cluster. You can pull it out far enough to disconnect the wiring rather than having to reach behind to unplug it.
Yeah, only real way to do it is to remove the center cluster because stock radios are so huge. I'm in the process of this myself. I had an aftermarket radio from PO and removed it about 10 years ago without having to take out the cluster. So I've not had tunes for several years. I've since fixed the orig. stock radio (PO saved it fortunately) and re-wired the harness, etc.. it works minus the engine noise coming through which I've found on here is likely related to my ignition/dist. shielding not being present (yeah... another thing to replace, thanks Bubba).
Not necessarily sure it's the "easiest" pulling the center cluster... I started doing it and got worried I was going to break some of the brittle plastic on the bottom trim around the heater controls and am going to have to remove more of my interior than I wanted. PO must have slightly ripped the dash when pulling it out before with the center light, but fortunately not visible with the cluster trim back in place (so be careful). Then while I'm at it, I probably have some other things to fix because it's a PITA to remove all that (i.e. clock to quartz probably, change out bulbs, etc). Rather not just pull half my car apart more than necessary.
if you have a winning noise ,that is from the altenator.i fixed mine with a ground wire from altenator to frame.
if you have a winning noise ,that is from the altenator.i fixed mine with a ground wire from altenator to frame.
I'll try that too when I replace the ignition shielding and do it all at once. I had one heck of a Bubba at one point. I'm probably missing some of the ground straps (I know for sure I'm missing the one by the shielding that's missing), and who knows what else. I have been finding Bubba's small gifts as I've become more adventurous here with trying to fix things.
Good example is he typically did a lot of chop and toss with wiring, vacuum hoses and whatnot. So he wanted to bypass all the smog vacuum hoses, however he didn't close off the open vacuum and my car generally idles like chit at startup. He was also nice enough to break off all the nubs on the tvs switches since he didn't need it anymore. And when he pulled off hoses, well.... ones he couldn't reach at the evap canister he just sliced wherever because he didn't want to bend too far. I also always wondered what the coat hanger strap was doing on the pax side of the engine since that couldn't have been stock...well that's holding the heat riser valve open. So I'm in the middle of fixing this mess, and learning a lot actually.
Pete: 79s have the plastic bezels and console panels.
When I have removed the center gauge bezel, I remove all the fasteners on the shift console plate plus those on the center gauge bezel and parking brake console. They are shown on Mike's illustration. I also remove the radio ***** and nuts behind the *****. Plus I remove the brace from the radio and pull the radio back behind the center gauge bezel.
I then tilt the front of the shifter plate down enough so I can pull it back from under the center gauge bezel. Then pull the center gauge bezel down enough, to enable the light socket at the top of the bezel to clear the dash panel. Then tilt the bezel back to enable disconnecting the wiring harness and remove the gauge bezel from the car.
With the gauge bezel removed, the radio then comes out.
I find if I don't slide the shift console back and tilt the gauge bezel back, the light socket at the top will not clear the dash panel and you risk cracking the dash.
04-27-2017, 07:04 AM
