Last week I spent hours trying to align the clutch on my 71 big-block. I could not get the transmission installed. Bellhousing back off, loosen the shoulder-bolts on clutch, try to align the clutch disc (giggle and fiddle) with that lousy plastic alignment tool, torque everything to spec again, and again, and again, and again, and again to no avail. If I managed to get the input shaft to engage the clutch disc (often times, it would not) I couldn’t past the pilot-bearing. Frustrated and wore me out, I gave up, went to my study, logged onto my computer, and ordered an alignment tool from Summit. I opted for a less expensive tool from Keyser Manufacturing, which was only $21 (RAM makes a quality alignment too, but it cost more than twice as much as the Keyser). The Keyser tool is a quality metal tool, which I used to align the clutch perfectly the first time. The transmission slide in like it was on rollers.

My advice is, if you are instilling a clutch, buy or borrow a quality (metal) alignment tool. Clutch installation to too much work to chance it to one of those cheap alignment tools that come with the clutch. Also, folks might find this helpful for the transmission installation. Take a transmission bolt to Home Depot to size a couple grade-8 bolts to use as dowel-pins. I used a 4-inch bolt (longer may be better), and cut the head off, and ground a slot into it so a screwdriver can be used, if necessary, to get the bolt out. I put these in the bottom holes in the bellhousing to use as dowel-pins to slide the transmission in place. This aids alignment and helps relieve stress on the transmission input shaft during installation. When the clutch is improperly aligned, the transmission slides into place as smoothly as a quality desk drawer. Install the top transmission bolts, remove the bottom dowel-pin bolts, install the bottom trans-bolts, bam, you’re done.

Best regards

Pat

 

Plastic ones always work for me.

 

I guess I am either lucky or good...I do not know which one....but I know when I use my plastic clutch line up tool I mess with it and find the center by moving it from side to side and top to bottom.

And knowing that every manual transmission I have ever serviced...the input shaft has some movement in it. It is not rigidly solid. Just saying.

DUB

 

2 comments....

If you cannot get the input shaft to go all the way in it is usually in the clutch disc but not into the pilot bearing/bushing. Forcing it or leaving the trans hanging with out tail support can bend the clutch disc.
A somewhat simple method (requires 2 people).
Hook up the clutch disengagement hardware, whether manual (old school) or hydraulic. You want to be able to disengage the pressure plate just enough for the disc to move. (the pressure plate should be already tightened down). Have the helper push in the clutch pedal while you are under the vehicle. This disengages the pressure plate and what ever small amount the disc is out of alignment, pops back into place. Push transmission into the pilot bearing/bushing. It should slide in freely now. Release clutch. Install any missing bolts and tighten all bolts to correct torque setting. You are now good to go.

In the "old days" we improvised on finding a clutch disc alignment tool.
I used the wooden version of a toilet paper holder once.
Perfect for a 11" disc into a 67 Camaro with a Hays 3 finger high perf 3600# clutch/pressure plate setup.

Bman

 

First time I had the transmission out I remembered this advise from a post after I had spent 20 min or so trying to get the tranny back in. Hooked up clutch linkage, had the wife push the pedal. "Clunk" and it slid right in. Have done this several times now and never an issue.

 

As DUB said the plastic ones work fine if you move it side by side and up and down while eyeballing it to find center because the looseness can keep the pressure plate off center just enough to cause your problem . I have always used this method and also never had any alignment problems with them . It is easiest if the engine is already out of the car so it is easy to see but if doing it in the car you have to get your head right up in front of the pressure plate and look straight in to find center. I guess it just takes some practice .

 

^^^^ x3

 

Hey Mike.
How's the rear holding up?
Love the color of your car....love any C3 in Green.....always been partial to British Racing Green back from the Formula One early years.
My 2nd project will be in Fathom Green.
Take care
Dennis

 

First time I had my transmission out, I spent 3 days struggling to get it back in that last 1 inch. No matter what I did, I couldnt get that fawker in right.

AT some point I read about the above tip......

My last transmission install took about 30 minutes to put in place and bolt up.

I also found a guy here who was selling cut input shafts to use as pilot tools. As luck would have it, I used it on my buddies 54 Pontiac and it lined up perfectly.

Moral is..know the 'pedal push' trick and buy a cut off input shaft when you get the chance. It pays for itself after its first use.

 

I just had mine out and I have a metal input shaft and I still had a little
Trouble get it in all the way. I used he bolts very gently mind you
And wiggle it as you go (no laughing) easy does it you will get it.
A lot goes to the bell housing alignment.

 

I tried that, wiggled it, fiddled with it, up and down, side to side, (engine was out of car) eyeballed it, no luck at all. This is the second time I used one of those plastic alignment tools, and each I had to tear back into it. The first time it used the plastic alignment tool I got it on the second try. This time, 5 tries, no go. I go back at it with the metal alignment tool and the thing lined up perfectly, first time, no fiddling or wiggling. Don’t plan to do this again anytime soon, but if do, I have a nice quality metal clutch alignment tool handy.

Best of luck to anyone doing a clutch install

Take care

Pat

 

I would suggest that you stay with the metal tool then if that is all that works for you.

 

X4! I love the plastic alignment tools, heaps easier than doing it by eye (and yes I've done that successfully several times)...

 

Yup you have to center the plastic, or any tool you use, and if the alignment tool drags at all when you remove it the trans will be a pain if not impossible to install. Believe it or not as a kid I used to eye ball it because the fancy tool was not available like they are today.
Now I have a drawer full of every possible one for just about every trans ever made.

 

Only a hundred miles or so but seems just fine. I can easily cruise at 30 mph in fourth, 1500 rpm or so. Following your project thread. Good luck with it.

 

Nice.
Summer's coming soon up there.....hope you get some serious usage out of it.

 

Pat,
Bottom line is that it is together.

All I hope for is that your pilot bushing is the correct oilite bronze type that is NOT magnetic....unless you are using the current design from GM that is an actual roller bearing. And I personally do not use it unless it is specified from a transmission manufacturer.

DUB

 

Dub, I have the new GM roller bearing. It wouldn't wear the Muncie input shaft, would it? Lou.

 

YES it can damage the input shaft tip... but it can disintegrate and the needles fail just like a U-joint can do as you can see.

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...s-bushing.html

DUB

 

Thank you DUB, for the link and the information. Lou.