Norm07

For those of you who have done your complete suspension rebuild (original not modifications) was it more cost effective to buy an entire package from one of the major suppliers, or to buy individual components, like tie rod ends, bearings, bushings, from a local supplier (where possible). Which major supplier has the most "complete" packages and what brand have you had the best luck with. I hear plenty of comments in regards to "you get what you pay for". Any help suggestions would be appreciated.

Alan 71

Hi N,
I believe I'd talk to Bair's Corvettes. They can tell you exactly who's parts they are selling.
They also have the skill to rebuild your trailing arms and steering box if that's needed.
They seem to be in the Corvette parts business, not the tee shirt/hat business.
Regards,
Alan

bruiser

You never know who manufactures the items in the suspension kit. You are better off buying the individual parts from online suppliers like Amazon or Rock Auto. Use only the best Moog parts you can get.

Mr D.

I also try to stay with using only Moog parts due to quality. When buying kits I always ask who makes the parts in said kits because these kits are just that a kit, a lot of parts pulled from stock and assigned a PN.

Now having said that I also take this one step further when doing a complete suspension rebuild and that is to inspect every aspect of the parts that make up the front and rear suspension.

Why replace a good OEM bearing and race if there is nothing wrong with it? Just clean it and repack it. Same goes for tie rods and ball joints, clean, re-grease and replace the rubber grease cup.

New is not always better and OEM most always wins out over reproduction. Rubber is really all that goes bad unless the car has been rode hard and put away wet.

If its not broke don't fix it.

mortgageguy

I used Bair's for all my rear end work. They did my diff and ta's and I purchased all individual parts from them.
On the front suspension, I bought the deluxe/major kit from Wilcox. It is all American made Moog and/or federal mogul. Top quality from both suppliers. I highly recommend both suppliers. You will save lots of money with Wilcox kit over purchasing individual parts from several different suppliers. Car will drive and ride like new.

Bair's and Wilcox also do repairs and restorations on Corvettes, they use the parts they sell in their on work. That means something to me.

Mr D.

Just to throw some data points out here;

1) Special tools, shop press Etc will run about $1,000 and you will need these to rebuild your A-Arms, T/A's and half shafts.

2) You can out source the rebuilding of your A-Arms, T/A's, half shafts, drive shaft, rear end and steering box for $2,418

3) Complete end to end rolling chassis rebuild using all new hardware and parts will run you about $2,600 in parts plus frame prep which can run from $400 to $1500 depending on how you approach it.

4) You can go all in and out source the rebuilding you your complete rolling chassis for $6,000.

#1 is a one time buy to go with #3 but you are still out $5,100 so if you think this will be a one time thing in your life than #4 might be the better option.

For me #1 was a no brainer because I'm a tool ***** and like doing things my way at my own pace.

Hope this helps.

Norm07

I too like buying tools.....and I have said previously I hate paying someone to do something I can do myself...I am resourceful enough to work a little harder at sourcing quality parts and especially learning plenty from the people on this forum. Thanks for your input.

mortgageguy

I came out a little better than that. Sent diff and ta's up to Pa., I did everything else. Parts, shipping, paints, brushes, scrapers, etc. every nut bolt and washer, had a shop replace u-joints and balance drive and half shafts. All in price for front and rear was $3500. Included some special tools for the front end.

Norm07

What did you do with your power steering? ..... if you had PS.
This is closer to my budget.

mortgageguy

I haven't had to rebuild any of those components yet. I don't have any play in my steering, but, I do have a very small leak. I'm going to live with that as long as possible.

540 vette

Go to you tube and they will show you how to rebuild your suspension and driveshafts without spending $10,000 on special tools.
I just did my 72. It probably cost me $1500 in parts. You don't have to send out the control arms, you can do them at home. You don't have to be a rocket scientist top do this work.
Also get a Borgenson conversion and get rid of the power steering leaks.

Add another $2000 if you are going to do the rear and the trailing arms.
But if they ain't broke don't fix them.

20mercury

My experience:
I have installed 4 different (2 68's, 72 & 76) front end rebuild kits from ebay for the $200+ price range and have been happy with all four. Just search for: 1968-1974 Chevrolet Corvette Complete Front End Suspension Master Rebuild Kit. And always used rubber which suits my driving just fine. I also splurge and install Bilstein HD stocks for which I "think" I can tell a difference between the cheapies. Also used mostly routine hand tools. I have a 20t press and pneumatic hammer chisel, but I find you can tear stuff up if not very careful. I do use a spring compressor which I think you have to have. Lots of ways to get the CA bushings in and out, just do some searches here, most of them I removed with the hand tools. I have not done any rear work yet although people tell me it is better to just buy rebuilt trailing arms. My 2 cents!

Also rebuilt ps pump, control valve, relay rod and ram with ebay parts just fine, just search for "how to" info. Sad to say, but the most of the world travels on and uses parts from China and elsewhere.

leadfoot4

^^^

this!!!

billcarson

even moog parts are not marked with their brand on the product.i had to call back and forth to make sure it was theirs.in the supply houses the switch is sometimes made to cheaper Chinese stuff.you must keep your guard up at all times.make your own tools when you can,all part of the fun.

Norm07

The trailing arms are bad..rubber is all disintegrating....and.....it steers like a riverboat..with the rearend wandering all over the place...

Norm07

Because of the terrible Canadian dollar vs US, at about 37% exchange, I will have to buy locally with a "garage discount from a local supplier.

Bit more effort but it's just not worth it for the suspension pieces, buying US

I have ordered from Rock Auto in the past. They have a slick ordering system for us Northerners. 1 price shipped right to the door, including taxes shipping and brokerage fees and so far I have never had an issue. I will be sticking with Moog quality.

Right now I am attempting to source the various specialty tools for the TA's. It seems anyone who buys them for a rebuild only uses them once and should be out there to buy used.

Cheers

leadfoot4

The parts themselves, may not have a Moog stamp on them, but if they come in a well printed, blue and yellow box, from a reputable source, chances are good that they are genuine Moog parts.

Other "big box" parts stores have their own "house brand" parts, and it's almost a 100% certainty that those parts are not Moog.

billcarson

one ball joint sent to me was switched out of the box.gotta be on the lookout.

Mr D.

Rubber is a $45 fix, don't assume the whole T/A is bad.