Front Coil Springs
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Front Coil Springs
My 73 L-48 sits high in the front and I would like to lower it just a bit for a better stance. Does anyone have any suggestions for manufactures that specialize in custom springs? The springs in the car now are OEM.
Thanks. . . . .
Thanks. . . . .
#2
Team Owner
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Hi I,
What do you mean by "OEM springs"?
Are you certain the current springs are properly 'seated' in the upper frame pocket and in the lower a-arm pocket?
Regards,
Alan
What do you mean by "OEM springs"?
Are you certain the current springs are properly 'seated' in the upper frame pocket and in the lower a-arm pocket?
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; 07-17-2017 at 08:26 AM.
#3
Nam Labrat
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Have you considered that aftermarket shorter coil springs will make the car "ride" stiffer/rougher? I cut two coils off the "closely-wound end" and ground the "new end" to fit in the "pocket" correctly....it took about 20 minutes per spring to modify them. The "ride quality" stayed basically the same.
The above is not recommended, but it worked for me.
The above is not recommended, but it worked for me.
#4
Melting Slicks
I'd cut the coils if all you want to do is lower it.
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
The general consensus is to cut the springs, but I'm still curious to see if there are any "Aftermarket" springs out there.
Steve
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
Have you considered that aftermarket shorter coil springs will make the car "ride" stiffer/rougher? I cut two coils off the "closely-wound end" and ground the "new end" to fit in the "pocket" correctly....it took about 20 minutes per spring to modify them. The "ride quality" stayed basically the same.
The above is not recommended, but it worked for me.
The above is not recommended, but it worked for me.
#7
how about a photo. If everything is stock, are you saying all stock 73's with a 350 look high in front or just yours? Lower than stock cars look nice but if you actually drive the car, every protrusion and curb rise in the road becomes a major concern.
#8
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Hi,
The original tire for 73, G70-15, was approximately 27.4" tall.
The typical front ride height dimension, 'P', at the center of the wheel arch was about 27.4".
Might lowering the ride height 2" cause some rubbing problems with the wheels turned?
Regards,
Alan
The original tire for 73, G70-15, was approximately 27.4" tall.
The typical front ride height dimension, 'P', at the center of the wheel arch was about 27.4".
Might lowering the ride height 2" cause some rubbing problems with the wheels turned?
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; 07-17-2017 at 08:44 AM.
#9
Nam Labrat
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It lowered about 2 inches.....BUT....I had to make sure the spring ends were seated in the upper and lower control arm "pockets" correctly/then I drove the car on different roads for about 15 minutes so the vibration would "settle" the suspension. IF you do not do the two things above, the front of the car will still "sit high" after you remove the jack stands.
(You cannot cut 1/4 or 1/2 or 3/4 of a coil off because the spring will "****" to one side in the pockets/a complete coil must be removed)
Before...............
I originally cut off one coil on each spring/reinstalled/test drove the car/but it still sat too high...so I removed the springs and cut the second coil off each spring (I took a pic of only one spring for reference).......
"Indexing the spring into the upper pocket (ignore the temporary alignment bolt).........
With the doors and hood installed the "gap" is now about 5/8" from the top of the tire to the "lip" of the fender.
After driving the car a few days I lowered the rear of the car.
Alan...good point ..I have had no problems with rubbing tire/fender or frame with 225/70/15 tires. I could see how wider tires would definitely rub the fender when turning into curbed driveways, though.
Last edited by doorgunner; 07-17-2017 at 09:30 AM.
#12
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Hi I,
Yikes! Is the engine in the car?
I agree that in the photo the car has an 'odd' stance.
Any chance of seeing a photo of the car with the front wheels straight and some light in the area of the wheel well so the top of the tire can be seen?
What sort of work has been done to the front suspension recently or over the years. When the spring was installed were the 'close' coils up?
When the upper a-arm bushing bolts were torqued was the weight of the car on the suspension?
What is the dimension at the rear wheel?
Are you CERTAIN those aren't 225-60-15 tires? I'm just not seeing enough sidewall to make me think 225-70.
???
Regards,
Alan
Yikes! Is the engine in the car?
I agree that in the photo the car has an 'odd' stance.
Any chance of seeing a photo of the car with the front wheels straight and some light in the area of the wheel well so the top of the tire can be seen?
What sort of work has been done to the front suspension recently or over the years. When the spring was installed were the 'close' coils up?
When the upper a-arm bushing bolts were torqued was the weight of the car on the suspension?
What is the dimension at the rear wheel?
Are you CERTAIN those aren't 225-60-15 tires? I'm just not seeing enough sidewall to make me think 225-70.
???
Regards,
Alan
#13
Safety Car
I am doing a frame-off NCRS restoration on my 70 BB convertible and have the front suspension ready to install the coil springs.
What was the original indexing of the coil spring in the upper pocket from the factory?
Where should the upper end of the spring be in respect to the hole in the upper pocket?
What was the original indexing of the coil spring in the upper pocket from the factory?
Where should the upper end of the spring be in respect to the hole in the upper pocket?
#15
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Hi 0N,
The end of the coil should be within .38" +- .12" from the stop in the pocket. UPC 3, Sheet A4.
This means you should be able to see the cut end of the spring through the observation hole.
Regards,
Alam
The end of the coil should be within .38" +- .12" from the stop in the pocket. UPC 3, Sheet A4.
This means you should be able to see the cut end of the spring through the observation hole.
Regards,
Alam
Last edited by Alan 71; 07-18-2017 at 10:14 AM.
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#17
Le Mans Master
That's a tough one. You could take one coil off to check but if you want more you have to take the whole damn think apart again.
You said it's 28 5/8 from floor to fender?
I'd come help you but that's a small ride to your place.
You said it's 28 5/8 from floor to fender?
I'd come help you but that's a small ride to your place.
#18
Safety Car
#19
Nam Labrat
Member Since: Sep 2013
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Hi I,
Yikes! Is the engine in the car?
I agree that in the photo the car has an 'odd' stance.
Any chance of seeing a photo of the car with the front wheels straight and some light in the area of the wheel well so the top of the tire can be seen?
What sort of work has been done to the front suspension recently or over the years. When the spring was installed were the 'close' coils up?
When the upper a-arm bushing bolts were torqued was the weight of the car on the suspension?
What is the dimension at the rear wheel?
Are you CERTAIN those aren't 225-60-15 tires? I'm just not seeing enough sidewall to make me think 225-70.
???
Regards,
Alan
Yikes! Is the engine in the car?
I agree that in the photo the car has an 'odd' stance.
Any chance of seeing a photo of the car with the front wheels straight and some light in the area of the wheel well so the top of the tire can be seen?
What sort of work has been done to the front suspension recently or over the years. When the spring was installed were the 'close' coils up?
When the upper a-arm bushing bolts were torqued was the weight of the car on the suspension?
What is the dimension at the rear wheel?
Are you CERTAIN those aren't 225-60-15 tires? I'm just not seeing enough sidewall to make me think 225-70.
???
Regards,
Alan
#20
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks to all for your input on this issue, looks like I'm going to have to do some investigating.
BTW is there a part # stamped anywhere on the springs? (if they were the original ones from the factory)
BTW is there a part # stamped anywhere on the springs? (if they were the original ones from the factory)