jlpskydive

OK so if you haven't seen my other posts, I have 78 SAE with 5,600 original miles and is in pretty pristine condition, except for the brakes. I was able to knock out the back in about 30 minutes. Replacing the calipers, soft and hard lines as they come in the replacement kits. The fronts on the other hand are a NIGHTMARE.... I have stripped both hardline nuts and bought the replacement lines to go back to the block. Now, tonight I put a wrench on the line for the driver side (the easy one) and it feels like it's going to strip also. (WHAT THE H E L L) So at this point I'm looking at replacing the whole system.... How can the front be so messed up?? There's no rust really, other than what you would find in a car that was stored in a climate controlled garage for the last 40 years. What am I doing wrong? Is there a way to just splice the hard lines close to the calipers and just get it back no the road until I'm ready to replace the whole system? This can't be this hard, the rear was a snap and I suppose that I'm paying for it now on the front. PLEASE HELP!!! I was able to pull the exhaust with nothing more than hand tools and a rubber mallet. That's how good the bottom side is.

bazza77

Are you using tools like these flare nut spanners ?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KC-Tools-...YAAOSwq19XB1SY


you can get a better quality local for sure , these are in case you didn't know of them that's all.

JayRay

Same thing happened to me, Rears were easy but the fronts started to strip. I used a small pipe wrench and was able to turn them with out stripping them further than what my open end wrenches already did. I have never had any luck with those, 3/8" I believe, hard line fittings.

TimAT

I've learned over the years that most flare nut wrenches are pretty soft. I have an assortment of MAC and Snap-on that seem to be fairly decent. I've had some Craftsman's that got tossed in the trash too. Also take a look at the flare nut crowfoot style. I've really had better luck with them than anything else.
Soak the line where it goes thru the nut- that's where they rust and seize.

jlpskydive

Yep, still not working.

jlpskydive

Thanks, I have some crows, but none that are flare. I have hit them with seafoam penetrator for a few days and still kicking my butt.

jlpskydive

A pipe wrench sounds like a grand idea, can you send me a link to something similar that you used. The only one i have seen locally are HUGE. Even the small ones. I really think the might be the answer.

jlpskydive

These are so locked in that I got a wrench on the lower soft lines and it twisted the hard lines. I was able to get the exhaust off in an hour, and the plugs out in 30 min. I just don't understand how these front lines are this locked on.

gungatim

honestly when I work on something that old I use the acetylene torch with a small welding tip. wet rag on the caliper or anywhere I want to stay cool and gently heat around the bleeder or line fitting (not the fitting itself) prior to trying to loosen it.

also going both directions with moderate force helps rock it loose.

you do have to be careful with the torch but a small tip gives you pretty good localized heat and control.

sparky77

Heat is the answer,like gungatim said even if you have a propane torch just warm up the fitting and use a good flare wrench and try turning it both ways just a little,if it doesn't move add more heat.

jlpskydive

Do you think a heat gun would provide enough heat? I'm a little hesitant to put a flame to it with all the crap that I have sprayed all over the underside to loosen things up

SteveG75

If you are just removing the old lines, cut them and use a 6 point socket on the nut. Or use a big vice grip.

For a penetrating oil, I like Deep Creep. Soak them for several days in a row prior to wrenching on them.

7T1vette

If GM had hardened the hex fittings on those lines, we wouldn't have all this trouble with removing brake lines. But, they saved .053 cents [estimated ] per fitting by not having them hardened.

The only tool I've found to be successful at removing those fittings is a 7/16" Snap-On crow-foot flare tool. It is fully hardened and you can add extensions to get at the fitting however it is positioned. Buy it on the internet and get it in a few days. Well worth it, if you are doing brakes.

OldCarBum

As stated above, heat is the key and I've used heat guns in the past. If a flex nut wrench won't work or crows foot, I would simply cut the tubing with a cutting tool and use a six point deep socket to break the nuts loose. Re-flare the tubing and splice in a replacement until you redo the system.

sparky77

I don't think a heat gun would heat up the fitting good enough, I always use a propane torch with the smallest tip on it.I have never had one that I had to cut with a little patience . Heat the fitting try back and forth with the flare wrench and than repeat ,it will come loose.

KapsSA

I just use a straight jaw visegrips to break it loose.
After it's loose, flare wrench to remove and tighten back up.
May leave some "lines" on the nut but doesn't chew it up like an ill fitting flare wrench.

hunt4cleanair

Photobucket would not give up the target of your hyperlink...the SnapOn crowfoot wrench...look at all the nonsense in that hyperlink. Photobucket gives the viewer everything but the target image...Mikey's drink, ads to Garden City and who knows what else.

hunt4cleanair

Photobucket would not give up the target of your hyperlink...the SnapOn crowfoot wrench. Photobucket gives the viewer everything but the target image...Mikey's drink, ads to Garden City and who knows what else.

Mr D.

Just did this on my 71 and had no problems replacing the rubber lines.

Red 69

Not all line wrenches are the same, my Craftsman set has never failed me. With a quality wrench held squarely on the fitting with one hand, hit the end with a hammer to shock it loose. Be sure to wedge a wrench on the hose to keep it from moving as you strike the line wrench and negating your effort. Heat with a torch might help before you start. If you don't have an oxy-acetylene set, not needed for this job, keep a map gas torch handy (yellow cylinder), it has many uses beside freeing stubborn nuts & bolts. Vise Grips work, but will bugger up your line fitting and doesn't look professional and poor workmanship IMO. Sorry to hear the car is fighting you, but just an initiation to the world of C-3 restoration. Hang in there, it all works out in the end!