resdoggie

Mine near fell out. But the bolt remaining inside the bushing didn't budge with a bfh.

lastcaveman

I`m 70 in two months and starting the same project. Which is the hardest part, taking it out or replacing the bearings ?

ronarndt

I'm trying to avoid removing the entire trailing arm. Just want to change the alignment shims. If I cut the bolt, the part that is rusted will still be in the bushing, except now hitting it with a pin and hammer will be more difficult, since the arm is no longer fastened to the car frame and will move when hit. It is difficult to get a direct shot at the bolt due to its location and the fender being in the way. My four pound hammer and hardened steel drift pin do not loosen it so far. As a last resort I will remove the entire arm and put it on my shop press. This is almost as fun as working under the dash.

Ole Red 77

I was lucky with mine. When I removed the castle nut that holds the bolt through the bushing, I was able to tap the bolt out with a small punch. The hardest part by far for me was getting my fingers in behind that same bolt to push it back through the new bushing. There's a small metal tab where the rear brake lines connect and that tab prevents you from getting your fingers in to the bolt. I took a hand held grinder and ground off the sharp corner of that tab. Just that little bit allowed me to get two fingers in behind the trailing arm bolt so I could push it back through the new bushings. The hardest part is that one bolt. It's just so hard to get to. You've gotta remove the brake caliper, shock, disconnect drive shaft. It was a headache but worth it. I just drove the car and it tracks and steers so much better.