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But didn't the AIM always indicate manual work processes? Or is that only occasional?
As to the notch extending up the spoiler, I'm not tracking with you, Alan. Using the AIM nomenclature, I see where the AIM shows notches in both the "Extension" and the "Radiator Grille Lower Panel". In RR's photo (shot from the front), I see the notch in the "Radiator Grille Lower Panel" as the AIM indicates. I don't see the how it is extended up the face of the spoiler. Am I looking at the wrong photo? Are you referring to the "Extension" as the spoiler (I know I normally do)?
Hi n,
Since the black plastic part is referred to as an 'extension' in the Service Bulletin and AIM that's what I call it…. and I refer to the (2"?) fiberglass lip on the valance as the spoiler.
I now see the date of the AIM sheet indicating it was drawn after the start of production.
In reading the Service Bulletin again, I now believe EARLY 68 cars DIDN'T have the extension because the installation instructions suggest using the EXTENSION as a guide to drilling the holes in the valance and fenders.
It looks like Brian is correct about not seeing any extension holes. Is the valance cut?
Hi N,
I was just looking at that sheet in the AIM too.
I'd think drilling the 4 holes in the valance would be a pretty straight forward process when the valance was still not part of the body.
And I guess the hole in each fender could be done before the parts of the clip were bonded together.
Regards,
Alan
Notice the 2 rectangular areas cut out of the lip on the valance beneath each of the bumper-ette bolts. The AIM doesn't appear to show that the notch extended up the face of the spoiler, but RR's photo shows it. I wonder how typical that was?
Alan - My 1968 Vette has a Jan '68 build date and does not have the rectangular cutouts near the bumperette attachment bolts.
I take some pics of the front end tomorrow when back in the shop so you can see the openings.
On another note I found and installed a heater bypass valve to try and get rid of some heat in the cabin until I can get the cables working for the vents and repair any heater box insulation. Im not sure just how good its working as by touch of the hose the heater core side seemed just has hot as the engine side. It may be all futile and just bypass the core altogether if I dont confirm its reducing heat.
Is this the correct location and setup for the fuel filter?
Getting some worn out parts replaced. but new KYB gas shock in the rear has already blown out today when I had it raised on the lift. Not surprising as it is what is limiting the travel of the control arm when raised, Warranty shock to come and replace again.
Front got all new steering parts but on the fence to replace leaking steering damper or not. Also upgraded to braided lines and front KYB's.
Worst part of the day was to remove rear pivot bolt so I could remove rear factory style shims so I can align the toe. What a PIA. I found it easier to relieve the rear spring tension then a few pry bars, propane torch, hammer, punch and a comealong later got it out and new slotted shims in. However on alignment rack to at least set front toe for new parts the guess on shims in the rear was wrong. Off .52 positive degrees on right rear and .33 negative degrees on the drivers rear. Still have drivers side to do tomorrow so Ill figure what shims I need to switch for right side and how close I can get on the drivers.
All that engineering for the rear end and this was the best design to set toe?
Question: In diagrams I see a hole in through control arm the the shims are suppose to have long cotter pins thru them? Or is this just on latter years?
Question: In diagrams I see a hole in through control arm the the shims are suppose to have long cotter pins thru them? Or is this just on latter years?
I seem to recall that the hole for the cotter pin (for the slotted shims) came a little later. We had to drill a hole for the cotter pin on an early unmolested '69 convertible. Fortunately we had the body off the frame which made it a much simpler task.
...Is this the correct location and setup for the fuel filter? ...
Somewhat. For 68 and 69, the fuel filter mounted on the AIR pump. AIR is missing on your car (common). Looks like a PO has fabricated a bracket for the fuel filter.
69 shown; 68 was similar.
Good photo reference here. Worth the price of a copy.:
Just to be clear, are you asking whether a cotter pin should be placed through the hole that exists on the rear pivot bolt? Also, as to the hot water shut off, if you run the car for quite some time you will still have radiant heat impacting the water, albeit small. My hot water shut off works very well, and I have installed heat insulation inside the cabin, but there is a noticeable difference between the driver and passenger side. Passenger has no complaints. The problem is on the driver side so I have a problem unrelated to the water. Do you have air-conditioning? If so, as you eventually address the controls, removing your heater box requires the removal of a hidden spinner nut. Long story.
Just to be clear, are you asking whether a cotter pin should be placed through the hole that exists on the rear pivot bolt? Also, as to the hot water shut off, if you run the car for quite some time you will still have radiant heat impacting the water, albeit small. My hot water shut off works very well, and I have installed heat insulation inside the cabin, but there is a noticeable difference between the driver and passenger side. Passenger has no complaints. The problem is on the driver side so I have a problem unrelated to the water. Do you have air-conditioning? If so, as you eventually address the controls, removing your heater box requires the removal of a hidden spinner nut. Long story.
No AC so lucky me. The cotter pins that are suppose the shims together. through the frame it looks like this picture.
However the 1968 shims as shown in the above pics did not slide instead the pivot bolt slid through them. I guess I do not have that hole in the frame because of the original design. Ill see if there is a way to secure them otherwise.
Ill see if there is a way to secure them otherwise.
Prev owner of my 68 once he had gotten the slotted shims right for each side just duct taped each bunch together and tucked them down into the opening where they would be secured by a cotter pin if were a 69 or later. 8000 miles and 6 years later they were still tucked there happily until I pulled the trailing arms. I tried the same without taping them after my work and a couple popped out within the first 100 miles.
I got the old rusted shims out, new bolts and slide in shims. I tucked them down on that pocket for now and I dont think they will move but may drill some holes.
What a pain to adjust though. I get the readings on the alignment rack and use best estimate for shim size change and start the alignment calibration all over. I put it back on the rack tomorrow and see how close I got.
Plus side I got the passenger 3 point seatbelt retrofit kit in. Found the factory reinforcement with nut on the wheel hump so that was a plus. Called Seatbelt Solutions who make the kit and was useless. I would think they would take customers calls a bit more serious being they are selling a retrofit kit for Saftey reasons! The instructions are horrible.
08-20-2017, 02:18 PM
