When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Got my rods out and marked this weekend so I can put them on the new pistons which will be here in a few days.
I pulled a few main caps and plastigauged them. All good so back on and torqued down. I thought about stroking it since I'm this deep into it but decided against it after rotating and watching how close the rods get. I don't feel like learning how to "relieve" the block at this time, maybe later.
If I can get somewhere close to this I'm sure I'll be satisfied: Dyno ResultsCamshaft Part #12-246-3DesignationXE274H-10Duration @ 0.006":274° / 286°Duration @ 0.050":230° / 236°Max Lift w/ 1.5RR: .487" / .490"Lobe Separation:110°Lobe ID#'s:5445 / 5208Intake Centerline:106°Engine Type:Chevrolet 350 Small BlockBore:4.040"Stroke:3.480"Displacement:356ciCompression:9.25:1Heads:Dart S/RIntake:Edelbrock PerformerCarburetor:Holley #3310 Vac. Sec.Exhaust:1 5/8" HeadersMax Torque:410 ft*lbs @ 3900 RPMMax Power:369 HP @ 5900 RPMManifold Vacuum:11" Hg @ 800 RPM & 14" Hg @ 1000 RPM w/ no load.
Maybe I'll do a little better since I've calculated my compression a little higher than this one. I believe I'll be around 9.6 to 1
New pistons and rings are in, new water pump, new fuel pump, new Edelbrock Performer EPS, new Edelbrock 600, new Promaxx vortec heads, new Comp Cams lifters & XE274h, and new gaskets.
Bolted the engine and Mad Dog 700r4 together and got them in and engine mount bolts in. Ran into a problem with my Mad Dog and '82 crossmember. Evidently the '82 700r4 had the trans mount farther back (on the tailshaft). I have a jack under the trans right now and have fabricated a plate to tie the crossmember to the transmission which I will install tomorrow.
Fired up the engine today and broke in the cam. It sounds really good. I've taken every precaution and if it wipes it is done. I'll buy a roller stroker short block and move everything over.
I searched and didn't find any good tip. I put the door in with 2 bolts in each hinge. Then I started sticking paint sticks under the door closer to the hinge end. 4 sticks got the height just right and with the door closed I tightened a bolt in the bottom hinge. I then put some up pressure at the back of the door with my engine hoist, opened the door, then tightened the top bolts. I'm happy with this side, now to the drivers side.
Paint sticks are the ticket to get the height right. Then I close the door and jostle it around (front to back) to get the door centered. Tighten a bottom bolt. I got the drivers side on and adjusted in under 10 mins. Now they're back off for primer/paint.
There was a wing and ground effects that I removed. I patched those holes with Bondoglass and Bondo. I built out the nose clip at the door gaps with some fiberglass strand mat and marine epoxy I had left over from a boat project. I used Nason primer and Shopline base. I can't think of the clear. My painter ordered everything and I picked it up. I'm doing all the body prep, priming, sanding, and painting the door jams. I have installed the doors and when I'm ready I will drive the car 2 miles down the road to his booth. I almost feel like I could paint it but I'm going to let him do it. He (of course) has a real booth, better compressor, guns, and last but most, more skill!!!!
I'm impatient which is probably why I'm not a great painter. I have also busted my rump for long enough (I'm a mechanical contractor) and this yr finally hired a full time tech/installer and a helper. They are awesome and have freed up some of my time which, lately, I have used to de-stress myself on the vette.
10-08-2017, 06:36 PM
we need more details!
