What's is the correct paint "sheen" interior black?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
What's is the correct paint "sheen" interior black?
I am re-finishing many interior parts I have finished many pen
Corvette c3 parts for years now but only for My own personal use and i like the semi-gloss finish... but what is stock? I read it was "satin" but I bought a can and painted some parts and they look way to shiny. Are the old parts just faded? I've read also "matte" is different than "flat" but at the store some paint can are labeled as both. So paint people give me
Some strait answers!
-what is the original paint sheen for c3 interior parts?
** update
This is for mostly metal trim pieces primarily it's also for re-sale I like to restore trim pieces that need paint and then sell them for a profit this started as a a hobby but I want these pieces 100% correct in paint I do not want to sell sloppy restored pieces it is a personal thing. I take the time marking off the chrome and doing everything right I want to make sure they are perfect.
So far I have bought so many different cans of paint I'm
Just doing this right out of stubbornness lol
So please if you were to buy let's say a metal piece of trim that was "properly restored" what sheen of paint matte? Semi-flat? What brand? What prep work?
I've used primers and adhesion promoters with great success but this has all been for mostly personal use until recently as I've honed my skills
Corvette c3 parts for years now but only for My own personal use and i like the semi-gloss finish... but what is stock? I read it was "satin" but I bought a can and painted some parts and they look way to shiny. Are the old parts just faded? I've read also "matte" is different than "flat" but at the store some paint can are labeled as both. So paint people give me
Some strait answers!
-what is the original paint sheen for c3 interior parts?
** update
This is for mostly metal trim pieces primarily it's also for re-sale I like to restore trim pieces that need paint and then sell them for a profit this started as a a hobby but I want these pieces 100% correct in paint I do not want to sell sloppy restored pieces it is a personal thing. I take the time marking off the chrome and doing everything right I want to make sure they are perfect.
So far I have bought so many different cans of paint I'm
Just doing this right out of stubbornness lol
So please if you were to buy let's say a metal piece of trim that was "properly restored" what sheen of paint matte? Semi-flat? What brand? What prep work?
I've used primers and adhesion promoters with great success but this has all been for mostly personal use until recently as I've honed my skills
Last edited by Averystingray75; 09-07-2017 at 05:16 PM.
#2
Racer
Semi-flat black.
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
#5
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
Posts: 30,173
Likes: 0
Received 2,878 Likes
on
2,515 Posts
Hi A,
I've continued to use Krylon #1613.
I think it has a sheen that's very similar to the original finish GM used.
Also, 1613 is acrylic lacquer so it covers well with just a thin coat. This also helps duplicate the original appearance.
Other finishes are typically enamel which gives the painted part a different 'look'.
The downside to using 1613 is that because it's lacquer it can be difficult to find locally but is easy to order on-line.
Regards,
Alan
I've continued to use Krylon #1613.
I think it has a sheen that's very similar to the original finish GM used.
Also, 1613 is acrylic lacquer so it covers well with just a thin coat. This also helps duplicate the original appearance.
Other finishes are typically enamel which gives the painted part a different 'look'.
The downside to using 1613 is that because it's lacquer it can be difficult to find locally but is easy to order on-line.
Regards,
Alan
The following 5 users liked this post by Alan 71:
Averystingray75 (08-30-2017),
C2-C3Guy (03-15-2019),
ed427vette (09-09-2017),
interpon (03-21-2021),
LenWoodruff (09-02-2017)
#8
Team Owner
Different paint suppliers use somewhat different terms. Krylon uses the term "semi-flat black". Dupli-Color uses the term "satin black".
There is one company that calls their paint "trim black", which looks very much the same.
My present favorite is John Deere "Blitz" black spray paint. It has the same sheen as Krylon semi-flat black, but IMO it is a better quality paint, goes on better (more even), and is more durable.
This type of paint can be used on interior components (dash, instrument cluster, console), and blackout for wheel wells and for engine compartment surfaces.
There is one company that calls their paint "trim black", which looks very much the same.
My present favorite is John Deere "Blitz" black spray paint. It has the same sheen as Krylon semi-flat black, but IMO it is a better quality paint, goes on better (more even), and is more durable.
This type of paint can be used on interior components (dash, instrument cluster, console), and blackout for wheel wells and for engine compartment surfaces.
Last edited by 7T1vette; 08-30-2017 at 09:38 PM.
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
#11
Racer
I used the SEM Landau Black and got it from Amazon.
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
Ok so I bought a can of SEM landau black and it I coughed up the 15$ a can
I'm not happy it is not the right "sheen" of paint at least not for metal...
And it contains acetone so it eats other paint like stripper
???
Bottom is same piece I painted top is an original piece <br/>Not the same sheen of paint at all I used SEM paint landau black
I'm not happy it is not the right "sheen" of paint at least not for metal...
And it contains acetone so it eats other paint like stripper
???
Bottom is same piece I painted top is an original piece <br/>Not the same sheen of paint at all I used SEM paint landau black
#15
Team Owner
Look like Landau black is semi-gloss instead of semi-flat.
#16
Instructor
Thread Starter
In person it appears to be a satin sheen not quite semi-gloss but still reflective and shiny. It closely resembles other brands krylon "satin" for example.
But it is not near flat enough.
And the original is not a true "flat"
I will keep trying brands and sheens till I find correct one.
But it is not near flat enough.
And the original is not a true "flat"
I will keep trying brands and sheens till I find correct one.
#17
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
Posts: 30,173
Likes: 0
Received 2,878 Likes
on
2,515 Posts
Hi A,
Since Krylon 1613 is acrylic lacquer, not enamel, the gloss level is the result of how the paint is sprayed.
A 'drier' spray results in less gloss than a 'wetter' spray.
It also covers with a very thin layer of paint which was typical of the original parts.
The part you show appears to have far too much paint on it.
On interior metal parts like the gauge and wiper switch bezels the amount of paint has to be kept to a minimum so all the existing paint should be removed, the parts cleaned scrupulously, and then the paint applied using no primer. 2 or 3 quick thin coats are typically enough with about 15 minutes between coats. If fish-eyes begin to show, stop immediately, and start over, spending more time on cleaning the part.
Regards,
Alan
Since Krylon 1613 is acrylic lacquer, not enamel, the gloss level is the result of how the paint is sprayed.
A 'drier' spray results in less gloss than a 'wetter' spray.
It also covers with a very thin layer of paint which was typical of the original parts.
The part you show appears to have far too much paint on it.
On interior metal parts like the gauge and wiper switch bezels the amount of paint has to be kept to a minimum so all the existing paint should be removed, the parts cleaned scrupulously, and then the paint applied using no primer. 2 or 3 quick thin coats are typically enough with about 15 minutes between coats. If fish-eyes begin to show, stop immediately, and start over, spending more time on cleaning the part.
Regards,
Alan
The following users liked this post:
C2-C3Guy (03-15-2019)
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
Alan 71 , I use Some SEM landau black in the picture
I painted many objects as "tests" with only one light coat and the results were the same.
The piece I strip down to bare metal and clean thoroughly before painting each time.
I have to ask did you paint the trim pieces in your picture? They look exactly like satin finish that same exact low level shiny I am talking about I keep getting looks identical to your picture. The one I took was exaggerated with the flash to show reflectionbut I can tell based on staring at it for hours your paint finish is the same satin I keep getting. So ? To me it looks kinda shiny like a satin. You tell me, is it original or did you paint it? Did you have other parts to compare it to?
I'm only asking because if that's correct than I think I might be ok. It's always hard to tell In pictures I apologize
I painted many objects as "tests" with only one light coat and the results were the same.
The piece I strip down to bare metal and clean thoroughly before painting each time.
I have to ask did you paint the trim pieces in your picture? They look exactly like satin finish that same exact low level shiny I am talking about I keep getting looks identical to your picture. The one I took was exaggerated with the flash to show reflectionbut I can tell based on staring at it for hours your paint finish is the same satin I keep getting. So ? To me it looks kinda shiny like a satin. You tell me, is it original or did you paint it? Did you have other parts to compare it to?
I'm only asking because if that's correct than I think I might be ok. It's always hard to tell In pictures I apologize
Last edited by Averystingray75; 09-08-2017 at 04:24 PM.
#20
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
Posts: 30,173
Likes: 0
Received 2,878 Likes
on
2,515 Posts
Hi A,
The parts in the photos are painted with Krylon 1613.
To my eye the problem I see in the part in your photo is not the sheen it's the 'lumpiness' of the paint layer.
I think people put too much stock in is it too shiny or is it to dull.
For me as long as it's not glossy or flat the sheen will be fine.
It's the type of paint and the amount of paint on the part that matters.
Lacquer and enamel finishes don't look the same.
Regards,
Alan
I know this to be original bezel paint. It has the appearance I was striving for.
Notice how smooth/flat the surface of the paint is compared to the surface of the paint on the part you posted.
The parts in the photos are painted with Krylon 1613.
To my eye the problem I see in the part in your photo is not the sheen it's the 'lumpiness' of the paint layer.
I think people put too much stock in is it too shiny or is it to dull.
For me as long as it's not glossy or flat the sheen will be fine.
It's the type of paint and the amount of paint on the part that matters.
Lacquer and enamel finishes don't look the same.
Regards,
Alan
I know this to be original bezel paint. It has the appearance I was striving for.
Notice how smooth/flat the surface of the paint is compared to the surface of the paint on the part you posted.