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I am months into mine, and we started with a no hit body
We did replace the lower front valence and the rear valence.
All the fiberglass work is now done and has been stripped
epoxy primed, skim coat, blocking, more epoxy, polyester primed
now we are letting it sit for a bit. We still have not gotten to the jams
and interior and engine bay. Then on to final sanding and then
painting then cutting and buffing.
I say all this to show that it can take a long time to do a great job,
and I can't get my body guy to "dumb it down"and cut corners.
He has done other cars for me and they turned out spectacular.
No offense taken. I used the term scuff and shoot loosely. I not only removed all chrome from car along with hood,door and deck removal. I also removed the entire interior. As I said it was a color change from green black interior to black red interior. So yes it was more than a scuff and shoot I guess I was trying to make the point that there was no body work involved in job just a lot of prep work. And your right you don't always get what you pay for but it's a small world so shafting somebody is not in my playbook.
I also use the same exact term. 'scuff and shoot'. I understood what you meant by that because if the car is not needing any body work...no need into getting into 'things' that are only going to cause for more problems or as I put it...'drama'.
As you know it is all about the prep....so for all of those out there doing their own thing... if the paint is shiny and a person feels it is ready to paint on.....the stuff ain't gonna stick to it.....hence...'scuff'....and get it dull.
I also realize that shafting people is not the way to operate a business or treat people and is not something I practice. If anything..I will take a loss.
For the price range that the person who started this tread is willing to pay for..he should be able to find someone who can do it for that...especially if it is as described. It is still a lot of work...but should be able to be done for that.
My old car, a 68 L36 Plain Jane Roadster was painted quite a while ago. I talked to a lot of people. My guess is a similar paint job would run $10K or so, depending on where you live. Make sure you get the right guy.
I am not an expert but I will say that a lot of the money spent on a paint job is preparation. The factory starts with a bare car with no preparation required. The results of poor preparation can be disastrous. I have seen some C3s where the paint had bubbles all over it and it is not pretty. As far as a decent paint job, I have heard numbers anywhere from 5K to 30K. If you can do the prep work, it would save you a lot of money. Just know that any contamination of the bare fiberglass (think oil on your skin) will cause the above mentioned bubbles in the paint.
Originally Posted by maj75
The factory didn’t spend that kind of time or money painting these cars. How much should a “factory” quality paint job cost?
The factory didn’t spend that kind of time or money painting these cars. How much should a “factory” quality paint job cost?
My car is going on six months at the body shop. As others have said the proper prep work is so crucial for a long lasting paint job. Lots & lots of labor hours ($$$$) I told the owner of the shop last week. The gaps and lines on the car. Look better now, then when the car rolled of the assembly line... This has been $$$$$ well spent.
Go to my forum 8/30/2010 and also go to soda blasting a 1968 corvette.
My painter in north Texas had no idea about fiberglass work and fixing stress cracks, as I learned after paying for a job quoted at 8,000 and once taken apart cost 10,000.
Stress cracks are back and fiber is showing through the paint job, Still shiny and a trophy winner, but I am not happy, and in the future will be doing this again. New Painter and also Gel coat the car so as to protect the fiberglass showing through the paint.
Just know your painter. Many just do metal cars, as my painter, but they won't be honest with you unless you do the detective work.
Go to You tube "soda blasting of a 1968 corvette convertible, " This is my 68 with the hard top on it. Aug. 2010, the painter also failed to cover the inside to keep out the soda, He didn't do the soda blasting, another shop did that. But the painter should have done something to prevent the soda from entering the car. I had soda in the vent ducts, behind the dash, just all over the place. Not FUN!
Last edited by regatta; 10-16-2017 at 09:06 PM.
Reason: to add more information
My car was just rolled out of the paint booth Monday, I was told at least another good week or two in sanding & polishing . Couldn't imagine how much better it's going to look....I'll let you all know what the final $$$ will be when done. I did have some extra work done on my wind shield pillars that added to the cost.
any decent painter will want the body stripped,
you just do not know what is under old paint.
if your paying someone to paint and strip your car you will be 10k plus.
or just do it your self, it is the only economical way to get the car painted.
I stripped, prepped and painted both of these cars.
Our '72 LT-1 was dropped off at the bodyshop a few weeks ago. It's a shop that has done work for me and some friends in the past. Top notch workmanship. The shop will be removing all trim, stripping it down to the base glass, repainting, re-assembling. The only known bodywork that it needs is removal of the luggage carrier.....and they told me that they do it "the right way and the holes will never show"......they described the process and it sounded good to me. Anyway, $8500 is the number..."unless other issues reveal themselves" after stripping the old paint. That's a fair deal, in my opinion.
I wish I could find a place down this way that would do my car for that, I would jump all over it. I hope it comes out great.
Originally Posted by Chapter2
Our '72 LT-1 was dropped off at the bodyshop a few weeks ago. It's a shop that has done work for me and some friends in the past. Top notch workmanship. The shop will be removing all trim, stripping it down to the base glass, repainting, re-assembling. The only known bodywork that it needs is removal of the luggage carrier.....and they told me that they do it "the right way and the holes will never show"......they described the process and it sounded good to me. Anyway, $8500 is the number..."unless other issues reveal themselves" after stripping the old paint. That's a fair deal, in my opinion.
any decent painter will want the body stripped,
you just do not know what is under old paint.
if your paying someone to paint and strip your car you will be 10k plus.
or just do it your self, it is the only economical way to get the car painted.
I stripped, prepped and painted both of these cars.
09-19-2017, 12:58 PM
