marshal135

Hello,
I purchased a new repro door ajar switch for my '68 coupe.
It came in the usual corvette central labeled zip lock bag.
It looks identical to my original minus the rust.
I did not buy it from them though?
Original 1 was working intermittingly.
I was able to remove the original with little effort.
It had slight rust on surfaces beneath the sill that couldn't be seen from outside. Possibly causing the poor contact issues.
I pushed the two original connectors out from the front, they remained in tact. Good so far right?
Pushed new connectors into new switch.
Went to thread the new switch into the sill and it seems the threading is wrong.
The sill has the two rivets still intact.
The switch when inserted feels like its hitting the backing plate it's just I cant get it to grab or thread in?
Is it possible the new threads are wrong?
I've had nothing but headaches with after parts to date.
I hope.... I didn't wipe the backing threads when I removed the original.
Anyone else have same problem?
Thank you,
Marshal

Alan 71

Hi Marshal,
Here's a 71… notice the taper on the threaded shank.
?
Regards,
Alan

Griff2002

Lots of things can go wrong in my experience:

1) Even though rivets appear intact, the backing plate may still be loose making it difficult for the switch to line up with the threads
2) The backing plate threads may be bad/rusty and need to be tapped. This is difficult because the rivets are not strong enough to run the tap through the plate
3) The diameter of the white plastic part on the switch may be too big to fit through the backing plate. I recently found another thread showing this with pictures. It makes it that much harder to get the switch threaded into the backing plate.

I'll be watching this thread. I have a new door ajar switch on the way. I've read about some tricks such as using a string with a large knot to hold the plate in place so you can put in a new rivet. I'm hoping then that I can get enough grip on the plate through the wheelwell access area to get a grip on the plate and thread the switch in.

Faster Rat

Chinese explanation : Sum ting wong

marshal135

Thanks Alan,
Yes the threads and taper look the same by eyeballing the two up.
Something involving the backing plate must have moved.
Still investigating.
Marshal

SIXTYTWO

I had the same problem on my 68. The new switch did start but was very tight. Threads looked good on both parts so I tightened slowly, maybe 1/3 to 1/2 thread each turn. After two or three turns it loosened up and tightened normally. Also it was a CC switch. Rich

derekderek

is that 3/8ths 24? or 1/8ths pipe?pipe is a tapered thread, frequently used on electrical stuff.

marshal135

Ed,
That would make sense will have time to revisit this again this Friday morning.
It is starting and then slipping loose like the backing plate is cross threaded?
Will advise.
Marshal

Faster Rat

I just finished running a new wire harness and reinstalled the original door ajar switches. Neither one threaded back in very far before getting tight. How far are you trying to thread it back in?

marshal135

Thanks for the pic.
My Passenger side fits flush to sill.
Drivers side original was out 2-3 threads exposed like yours.
The repro part starts to grab in the hole and then gets tight
by hand but as soon as you put a wrench on it it jumps thread and is loose and can be taken out by hand. I'd love to get it started right so I could be done with this.
Kinda reminds me when you have something cross threaded.
Marshal

marshal135

Update:
I removed the new replacement switch.
It was a part from corvette America, I owe corvette central an apology.
It apparently stripped it self out under light install using a box wrench.
I cleaned up the light surface rust that was on the original and it works fine now.
I should have done this originally before wasting 16 bucks on an off shore junk replacement part again.
When will I learn?
I'm going to contact the sub vendor on eBay I purchased it from and see if I can return.
I know on another thread I went on a rant dissertation about the **** poor quality of replacement parts so this thread is not the place.
I'm still a believer that gently used original take offs with patina still trump the shiny new part in a bag that will not fit and require you to waste an hour of your time to boot.
Ok ill step off my soap box now.
Marshal

Alan 71

Hi Marshal,
The trap of "I'll buy new… electrical…. vacuum….interior….parts" is so easy to fall into. The parts LOOK terrific….in the photos.

But too often they're of such low quality that as you said... reusing the original part, even if it takes some work, is typically the better thing to do.
Regards,
Alan

gbvette62

Marshal, I hate to say this, but if that switch came from Corvette America, I think it may be US made. Corvette America sells the switch made by Lectric Limited, and I think they have their switch made here?

If it has an "SX" stamped on the plunger, then it was made by Lectric Limited. EC Products makes a switch overseas, but it doesn't have the "SX" OEM makings on it.

vette8121

Hi, being tapered it seems it would be 1/8 npt. tm

BBCorv70

I'd stay with the originals. The reproduction switches I bought a while back looked pretty but were made of softer or thinner metal. A few bent very easily rendering them useless. Garbage.

marshal135

It is marked SX and it felt like a well made part.
Good stiff spring thought I was good to go.
The outer nut threads wiped them selves out while trying to thread it into the backing plate. No force used to install just threads seem too soft.
The original went right back in no problems.
So you got me?????
The more I try to improve the more of a survivor she resorts too.
Marshal