what yr C3 should I buy
#21
#22
Team Owner
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: Southern Cal Ca
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St. Jude Donor '22
OP said no smog.
If, if the computer has been removed then ok.
If stock, with computer then problems that will cost if you pay someone.
#24
#25
Nice color combination!
#26
Race Director
From the years you chose:
a 454 big block as a first choice.
As a second choice a 1980 would be the best. Nicest car that is still easy to maintain.
NOTE: California cars had a 305 which I would tend to avoid. The rest had a 350.
a 454 big block as a first choice.
As a second choice a 1980 would be the best. Nicest car that is still easy to maintain.
NOTE: California cars had a 305 which I would tend to avoid. The rest had a 350.
#27
You must have a very strong L48. L48 = 190HP L82 = 230. There's 40 more HP in the L82. My 79 was an L48 4speed which had 195HP and I could feel the difference. Maybe the 350lb weight reduction had something to do with that. Or the rear gear, although both the L48 and L82 are listed with a 3:07. I have never driven a L48 4speed 80 but I bet the gear multiplication in first is better than the auto. That could explain it.
Nice color combination!
Nice color combination!
#29
Safety Car
settle on a range of years, buy the best condition best price car you can find. if you throw out the originality book, you can get you a nice big block 4 speed '80 fully loaded. or get an 82 without crossfire. if you are dead set on a specific year, you are massively limiting your choices.
#30
Drifting
Do you have emissions requirements and testing in your state? That can be a pain.
As far as l48 vs l82, put cam and heads on a l48 and you will be ahead.
As far as l48 vs l82, put cam and heads on a l48 and you will be ahead.
#31
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2015
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Beware of examples (no matter how low the mileage) that have sat for years! While some disagree I still say that highly modified = highly troublesome.
#32
To the OP... Pick the car that YOU like, not what everybody else likes. It's your car to drive and enjoy, it really doesn't matter what other people think.
Figure out which style YOU like of the rubber bumper cars (assuming that is what you like), there are really 3 styles... 74-77 (flat back window), 78-79 (large back window) and 80-82 (large back window, front and rear spoilers)
Drive trains are all basically the same... 81 has a computer controlled carb, and 82 has cross fire injection.
Since this is your first c3, find the one in the BEST condition that you can.
Good luck, and happy hunting!
Figure out which style YOU like of the rubber bumper cars (assuming that is what you like), there are really 3 styles... 74-77 (flat back window), 78-79 (large back window) and 80-82 (large back window, front and rear spoilers)
Drive trains are all basically the same... 81 has a computer controlled carb, and 82 has cross fire injection.
Since this is your first c3, find the one in the BEST condition that you can.
Good luck, and happy hunting!
#33
That's a good choice for your stated desires IMHO. A substantially unmodified, well-maintained and lower mileage example has the best chance of having [relatively] low maintenance costs but will come at a premium price.
Beware of examples (no matter how low the mileage) that have sat for years! While some disagree I still say that highly modified = highly troublesome.
Beware of examples (no matter how low the mileage) that have sat for years! While some disagree I still say that highly modified = highly troublesome.
#35
Le Mans Master
when I bought my 82,i was told by a couple of people that the crossfire had some issues.so I said fine if the car ever has a problem with the fuel injection that I could not fix then I would change it to a carb.that was over 20 years ago, I still have the crossfire.If you find a low mile 82 that is the color you like with the options you want ,,,,I would buy it .The new injection stuff makes the car a perfect candidate for updating.the last year for the c3.overdrive trans.great mpg.great looking.good ride with glass rear spring.all have ac.[but not all work] find the best condition car you can find .the cost for repair can get high.happy hunting.
#36
Race Director
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The differences between each model year of C3 Corvettes is incredibly minor when you know the similarities.
Ignore all the hype about chrome bumper cars, and the suggestions that anyone who doesn't own one secretly wishes they had one, and cries every night over the fact that they don't own one. That always comes from people who own them, as it helps make them feel superior.
Fact is, each model year has its own unique items, and you have to pick the one that is best for you.
In any case, the 1977 is the best year,....its a known fact.
Ignore all the hype about chrome bumper cars, and the suggestions that anyone who doesn't own one secretly wishes they had one, and cries every night over the fact that they don't own one. That always comes from people who own them, as it helps make them feel superior.
Fact is, each model year has its own unique items, and you have to pick the one that is best for you.
In any case, the 1977 is the best year,....its a known fact.
Rats...i couldnt even type that with a straight face,
My 69 makes me feel a bit inferior at the moment hopefully when i get it running diving i will feel better about it...
Jeffs right who cares what some other cat thinks you should buy, buy the c3 you like best, and yeah each year does have something cool and or weird about it...
#38
All C3s come with pretty the same expenses for parts and paint.
After deciding if you want Chrome bumpers or not.........the next big consideration probably is paint and body, IMHO.
All Corvettes are COOL........but the one big issue that sends many into the category of don't just WALK AWAY.......RUN!! Is paint and body.
Beyond the obvious rust issues you don't want to under estimate the price tag attached to a proper paint job if you aren't capable of doing or wanting to do most of prep work yourself.
After deciding if you want Chrome bumpers or not.........the next big consideration probably is paint and body, IMHO.
All Corvettes are COOL........but the one big issue that sends many into the category of don't just WALK AWAY.......RUN!! Is paint and body.
Beyond the obvious rust issues you don't want to under estimate the price tag attached to a proper paint job if you aren't capable of doing or wanting to do most of prep work yourself.
#39
One an L82 model and the other an L48.......pick the one in better shape. Both engines are PATHETIC performers and likely the first LARGE project change you'll make to modernize your ride.
I have an L82 car I've owned for it's entire existence.....back in the early 80s the L82 was the far more desirable car.......but today it's a non-issue. The badge on the hood removed because it isn't what is under the hood anymore.
The L82 PROMINENTLY displayed became something of an embarrassment as the years went by.....as if less power than entry level economy cars make today is bragging rights/badge worthy.
Seriously.......just pick your years that you like and then hunt down the very best example you can get for the money you are willing to spend. Regardless of what is under the hood. L48 vs L82 shouldn't even enter into the decision at all, IMO.
Last edited by Krystal; 12-18-2017 at 09:36 AM.
#40
Great picture of your two basic choices in body style. The Chrome Bumper cars are undeniably more "classic" and etched into the Muscle car era of the 1960s. But on't discount the appeal of that Black car in the photo.....inside it's the nicer car.....especially if you have a passenger and want to carry more than a bag lunch and toothbrush in the area behind the seats. As a rule you can't go wrong with a Chrome bumper car.....they are in bigger demand than the Rubber Bumper Corvettes.......but that comes at a cost too.......you should definitely expect to get a BETTER CAR for the same amount of money spent when you buy a '74 and up vs the '73 and back.
Last edited by Krystal; 12-18-2017 at 09:58 AM.