PainfullySlow

I managed to get two screws out of this grille however this last one will not budge. I have gone in from the back and doused it with PB Blaster but no luck and the head is starting to strip. The other side all 3 screws are like this.

Do I have any option other than drilling the head off and using vice grips?

doorgunner

Now that you have a screw out.....use a drill (bit) 25% smaller than the threaded hole in order to drill completely through the frozen screw(s)....then use an easy-out to remove the remaining screw body....

OR as you said....Drill the head off.

BLUE1972

I would try FREEZE OFF - a spray that works sometimes when other products fail.

Also Sears and Harbor Freight make an impact screw driver that you hit with a hammer while holding. Sometimes the impact of the driver is all you need. I would not use a sludge hammer, but rather a regular hammer with the hand held impact.

When I could not get the crankcase cover off my 72 motorcycle - it's AL - the impact worked well and loosened the screws.

If all else fails get a set of reverse twist drills and a set of easy outs and drill them out.


Craftsman Impact Driver
Bust it Loose with this Manual Impact Driver
Designed to convert the force of a hammer blow into 200 foot pounds of torque, this Craftsman manual impact driver gets stick fasteners un-stuck, quick. Utilizing the driving force of a hammer blow, it locks both sockets, Phillips and slotted bits into place, helping end slip and stripping, while the internal torque mechanism gets things turning.

Including a ½ inch drive end, this manual impact driver is the perfect fit for dozens of sockets, while a range of 2, 3 and 4 sized Phillips couple with a 3/8 inch slotted bit to get most household projects , moving. A solid addition to any workshop and complete with an organizational case, add this impact to your tool drawer, and get the power that gets the job done.

•Craftsman manual impact driver includes: #2, 3, 4 Phillips bits, ½ in. drive end, 3/8 in. slotted bit
•Rugged steel construction is impact ready
•Black finish helps prevent corrosion...

revitup

Try using a cordless drill with the correct size phillips bit as an impact gun. Set the torque setting low to begin with and maintain good pressure on the screw head. Increase the torque setting a little at a time until the screw breaks loose. This worked well for me to remove rocker panel screws and worked when a manual impact driver (as described earlier in this thread) wouldn't.

Richard454

With the impact- put a dab of toothpaste (paste kind) on the bit for some extra grab- if you happen to have it- valve grinding paste is even better.

Another vote for left hand drill bits. As you drill down- the pressure is lessened on the threads and what's left of the screw comes out with the bit.

The other day-I was at the local hardware store buying some left hand drill bits. The kid thought I was messing with him- as he said they were next to the muffler bearings!!!

Richard

JETS C3-C4

The parts are plastic so I would use the above method not the manual impact driver that you hit with a hammer unless you don't care about cracking the plastic, it is old and brittle. That's my .02 FWIW

I like the cordless drill method as I had not thought of that. Great idea.

doorgunner

The O.P. parts look like cast metal.....I surely wouldn't want to crack that stuff!

Rescue Rogers

i like PB blaster. soak them for a few days. it usually breaks stuff free

PainfullySlow

Thanks for the responses everyone. I will try the toothpaste and drill method and if that does not work, fall back to the ez-outs. I forgot that I have them in my toolbox since I rarely have the chance to use them.

It is definitely cast metal, and expensive to replace =) I do not want to risk cracking at all.

3 days and no-go. I agree, usually PB gets the job done but not this time.

ralphspears

Heat it up from the back side and touch candle wax to the screw head.Look it up on You tube (candle wax for rusted bolts)

71 Green 454

I found this at my local ACE hardware store.

revitup

I'd skip the toothpaste. Can't imagine that'll help with the grip.

C3 4ME

I've had luck with just tapping a standard screwdriver with a hammer as I try to loosen stuck screws. I'm not talking about whacking the crap out of it, just start with some gentle taps.

sunflower 1972

Back in the days when cars had wheel opening moldings, that's exactly what we did. Loosened the screws every time.

BLUE1972

That is the nice feature of the Craftsman Impact Driver , as you hit it -it turns the screw, I have removed frozen parts with them on my lap and tapping the impact with a 8oz hammer.

I have both Craftsman Impact Driver and the Harbor freight (for the boat) - the Craftsman (at home) is a nicer unit but both work well.

68/BB

I have used almost all the above methods at various times. One thing, since you are on the verge of stripping the head, is to actually try turning slightly in the clockwise direction, just enough to try and break it lose. I have had some luck with that on occasion. Especially on things like lenses because ppl tend to just hand tighten them leaving a little bit of forward rotation still available.The hammer driver can work but as noted just be very careful not to break something. You work on old cars this issue is an everyday occurrence. Don't you just love how in the car shows on t.v they seemingly never run into this. Everything comes apart like it came right off the assembly line! Don't we wish.

See 3

Cavu2u

This is a tricky one.
If that's an original lens, it's a keeper.
I would try grinding off those screw heads first, using a Dremmel and the smallest cutting ball bit you can find. Take your time with it, light pressure, highest speed, and oil to aid in cooling AWA cutting. Once the lens is off, you'll have something to grab onto.

Just me.
Steve

champs65

Use a screwdriver with a solid, not rubber end that you can really get a good grip on and tap the end with a hammer while trying to loosen the screw with the other hand.

Very rare that one wont loosen up, just might take a few minutes

PainfullySlow

Tried all the listed methods and these damn screws would not budge. At this point I am more concerned about destroying the grill rather than the lenses so I am in the process of drilling out the screws. The vibrations are causing the lenses which are already cracked to become worse. Looks like I will need to replace the lenses but I hope at least to save the grilles.