Timing makes No Sense??? 33 degrees at Idle
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Timing makes No Sense??? 33 degrees at Idle
Have a lt-1 engine with solid lifters and original NOS cam that was just rebuilt and am trying to set the timing. The car starts and runs (on jack stands) but the timing makes no sense. With the vacuum cannister hooked up, air cleaner off and a vacuum gauage attached these are the reading I get.
Vaccum: 12
timing at idle: 33 degrees BTDC
When I try to adjust the timing (retard) to 9-12 degrees it dies. The engine is warm and the idle is about 750 rpms. How can the timing light read 33 degrees at idle. It is a timing light that can be advanced or retarded so when it goes to TDC the timing light reads 33 degrees????? Makes no sense. Help--what am I doing wrong.
Vaccum: 12
timing at idle: 33 degrees BTDC
When I try to adjust the timing (retard) to 9-12 degrees it dies. The engine is warm and the idle is about 750 rpms. How can the timing light read 33 degrees at idle. It is a timing light that can be advanced or retarded so when it goes to TDC the timing light reads 33 degrees????? Makes no sense. Help--what am I doing wrong.
#2
Le Mans Master
Set your timing about 10*-12* with it warm and the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. Set idle speed to specs and recheck the timing. Then WITHOUT hooking up the vacuum advance, run the RPM to 3000 and see what the total mechanical advance is.
#3
Drifting
Wow,that's close to all-in timing, at idle! Did your engine rebuilder mark true 0 degree advance on the harmonic balancer with the piston at TDC compression stroke? Many harmonic balancer outer rings slip out of calibration after all these years.
#5
Team Owner
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: Southern Cal Ca
Posts: 50,465
Received 762 Likes
on
613 Posts
St. Jude Donor '22
yup
disconnect the vacuum advance.
dist weights come in if idle rpm too high so follow the spec.
you say you made a LT1.
did you find a distributor with proper weights curve and proper vacuum can?
there are differences.
don't forget the idle mixture screws.
depending on what the carb came off, power valve and
jetting will come in.
LT1 is a temperamental beast and to run pump gas, you will need to tinker.
idle stop screw will no doubt need careful adjust.
good luck
disconnect the vacuum advance.
dist weights come in if idle rpm too high so follow the spec.
you say you made a LT1.
did you find a distributor with proper weights curve and proper vacuum can?
there are differences.
don't forget the idle mixture screws.
depending on what the carb came off, power valve and
jetting will come in.
LT1 is a temperamental beast and to run pump gas, you will need to tinker.
idle stop screw will no doubt need careful adjust.
good luck
#7
Team Owner
GM defined the 'timing at idle' specifications for THEIR benefit...so timing would be retarded, power would be less, and warranty costs would be lower.
I suggest that you set timing at idle (with vacuum advance disconnected and line plugged) to about 12 deg. BTDC. It will run better and perform better. You can maximize timing adjustment for performance by following instructions from Lars Grimsrud's tech paper Use SEARCH function to find it.
I suggest that you set timing at idle (with vacuum advance disconnected and line plugged) to about 12 deg. BTDC. It will run better and perform better. You can maximize timing adjustment for performance by following instructions from Lars Grimsrud's tech paper Use SEARCH function to find it.
#9
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Posts: 13,654
Received 4,924 Likes
on
1,930 Posts
Have a lt-1 engine with solid lifters and original NOS cam that was just rebuilt and am trying to set the timing. The car starts and runs (on jack stands) but the timing makes no sense. With the vacuum cannister hooked up, air cleaner off and a vacuum gauage attached these are the reading I get.
Vaccum: 12
timing at idle: 33 degrees BTDC
Vaccum: 12
timing at idle: 33 degrees BTDC
Lars
The following users liked this post:
Gettysburg (01-22-2022)
#12
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Posts: 13,654
Received 4,924 Likes
on
1,930 Posts
Lars
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
My timing light seems to fire intermittently so Im having a hard time reading the light so Im going to replace te plug wires, the rotor, and the distributor cap. I will report back. Thanks for all the input so far.
#14
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Posts: 13,654
Received 4,924 Likes
on
1,930 Posts
An intermittent firing timing light is usually caused by the timing light mag hookup probe. I wouldn't replace all the engine ignition components due to a bad timing light mag clamp probe... unless you actually have verified that the engine is misfiring. My timing light frequently misfires, but I don't replace the plug wires on the engine to fix it.
Lars
Lars
Last edited by lars; 01-23-2018 at 08:45 PM.
#15
I'll ask. How does it run?
#16
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I can't tell you how it runs because it's 3 degrees out and we have a foot of snow. Won't be able to drive the car for several months--unfortunately.
#17
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Mar 2006
Location: Piedmont Va
Posts: 3,456
Received 100 Likes
on
85 Posts
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13,'19-'20
Lars' math is sound. My built 383:
18* Initial
12* Vacuum Advance (manifold)
30* Total @Idle (900RPM)
36* Total advance @3000rpm
You seem to be in that ballpark. Did you do a total advance test?
18* Initial
12* Vacuum Advance (manifold)
30* Total @Idle (900RPM)
36* Total advance @3000rpm
You seem to be in that ballpark. Did you do a total advance test?