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I posted about this before but still haven't found a fix.
Car turns on fine, but when I turn key back to off, the engine is still going.
I bought a new ignition switch, but unfortunately the new springs within that switch are too tight for my actuator rod to actually start the car (looking for a lightly used one, or different brand maybe).
However, when the car is running with key to off and I unplug the red/black plug out of the alternator, the car keeps running.
Is this a short somewhere? Bad ignition switch?
Has anyone had an issue with the new ignition switch being too "new" or tight for your actuator rod to actually engage into start?
I posted about this before but still haven't found a fix.
Car turns on fine, but when I turn key back to off, the engine is still going.
I bought a new ignition switch, but unfortunately the new springs within that switch are too tight for my actuator rod to actually start the car (looking for a lightly used one, or different brand maybe).
However, when the car is running with key to off and I unplug the red/black plug out of the alternator, the car keeps running.
Is this a short somewhere? Bad ignition switch?
Has anyone had an issue with the new ignition switch being too "new" or tight for your actuator rod to actually engage into start?
Did you try to adjust the ignition switch? No way should the spring in the switch be so strong that the rod won't move it. Clearly you have 12V at the coil when the ignition is off.
Did you try to adjust the ignition switch? No way should the spring in the switch be so strong that the rod won't move it. Clearly you have 12V at the coil when the ignition is off.
I didn't know you could adjust it - how would I do that?
The spring is pretty darn strong and I can see the rod not have enough strength to get to start (dropped the column so I can see).
Did you try to adjust the ignition switch? No way should the spring in the switch be so strong that the rod won't move it. Clearly you have 12V at the coil when the ignition is off.
Also just to be clear, the rod will move the switch through all the positions easily except for start.
Also just to be clear, the rod will move the switch through all the positions easily except for start.
The start position is the last one in the travel of the switch. The mounting holes on the switch are slotted so you can adjust to the correct position. The picture below shows my 79' which also has the dimmer switch on the same studs. The one on the top is the ignition switch. There is an adjustment procedure in the shop manual.
The start position is the last one in the travel of the switch. The mounting holes on the switch are slotted so you can adjust to the correct position. The picture below shows my 79' which also has the dimmer switch on the same studs. The one on the top is the ignition switch. There is an adjustment procedure in the shop manual.
Hmm ok, I'll try to do that.
Although its strange, I installed the old switch the same way I did the new one and the old one will start it!
I found this section in Jim Shea's paper: "Fit the actuator rod into the slider hole and assemble it to the column with the two
fasteners. Lightly push the switch down the column (away from the steering wheel), to
take out lash in the actuator rod, and tighten the mounting screws."
I haven't done this part, so maybe the new switch is tight enough that not taking the excess "lash" out before tightening down the screws makes the actuator rod a bit too loose for the new switch.
If you look on the forum (general section) right now there is a gentlemen offering wiring diagrams for 68-82 cars. Ask him for diagrams for your year car? I don't see in this post your year of car? Is your coil separate or built in to distributor cap? If separate then it is clearly marked + and then you would go on engine metal somewhere for ground. If in cap you would have to identify wire and either with a needle probe pierce into it to check or follow towards ignition and check at coupler. Wiring diagram would show connector and terminal number. Does it look like your car has been rewired at all or is it factory by the looks
I have two wires on the coil +.On mine the yellow-striped wire does go to the starter solenoid and supplies 12 volts to the coil when the starter solenoid is energized with the ignition key. The red-striped wire goes to the firewall junction block and then directly to the ignition switch, supplying a reduced 9 volts to the coil after the key is released from the start position and left in the run position.
If you look on the forum (general section) right now there is a gentlemen offering wiring diagrams for 68-82 cars. Ask him for diagrams for your year car? I don't see in this post your year of car? Is your coil separate or built in to distributor cap? If separate then it is clearly marked + and then you would go on engine metal somewhere for ground. If in cap you would have to identify wire and either with a needle probe pierce into it to check or follow towards ignition and check at coupler. Wiring diagram would show connector and terminal number. Does it look like your car has been rewired at all or is it factory by the looks
Thank you!
Yes he sent me the diagram for my car and I've been combing through it (its a 1978, auto transmission).
I have to check the coil and see if its separate. According to the diagram, the pink wire from the ignition switch is circuit 3 (not sure what that really means) and goes to the fuse box as well as the distributor (ive attached two photos).
Pink should only be hot when key is in start or run position. It could be that when I turn key to off, the ignition switch doesn't kill the pink wire, or perhaps its caused by a short somewhere. I wish I was better at electrical work.
I will test the ignition coil system tonight and see whether there is voltage going to the coil when I turn the key to the off position. Does the car need to be started and then turned off (even though it will keep running) to test this? Or would power be going no matter what?
I have two wires on the coil +.On mine the yellow-striped wire does go to the starter solenoid and supplies 12 volts to the coil when the starter solenoid is energized with the ignition key. The red-striped wire goes to the firewall junction block and then directly to the ignition switch, supplying a reduced 9 volts to the coil after the key is released from the start position and left in the run position.
Well I managed to get the new ignition switch to work, but the car still won't turn off... I guess I have to start looking at potential shorts etc. The gen light is also on. Any suggestions on where to start looking?
you will see a plug on the side of the distributor that is either pink or red and marked BAT, there is a second black wire for the tachometer marked TACH, with the key in the off position you should have zero volts at the red/pink wire marked BAT.
you will see a plug on the side of the distributor that is either pink or red and marked BAT, there is a second black wire for the tachometer marked TACH, with the key in the off position you should have zero volts at the red/pink wire marked BAT.
Thanks, I'm gonna check this tonight, although I suspect there is certainly voltage going to the coil. From reading how other people solved this issue, my job now is to disconnect random plugs and circuits and see if they shut the car off. One guy said he unplugged the connection for the blower and that fixed it. Lots of digging to do tonight ... Also there is a wire plugged into the IGN terminal in my fuse box and I have no idea where it goes, but it's pink. Could this be it? I'll try tonight. Any other clues appreciated.
that is an interesting find, the IGN terminal. Most older C3's there is nothing there but someone with a car closer to your year would have to confirm. On older C3's with the key off that terminal is dead.
You do not have to start the car to test . I would suggest you find a good ground for your meter and check for 12 volts at coil+, You will probably have it with key off as you suspect. If you do I think it is easier to follow that wire back from coil. It does go to ignition switch but should not be hard to follow. You may get lucky with the pink wire you say is at the fuse panel. I read on forum this wire to coil does plug in front of fuse panel so perhaps someone plugged it onto a hot terminal rather than switched?
You do not have to start the car to test . I would suggest you find a good ground for your meter and check for 12 volts at coil+, You will probably have it with key off as you suspect. If you do I think it is easier to follow that wire back from coil. It does go to ignition switch but should not be hard to follow. You may get lucky with the pink wire you say is at the fuse panel. I read on forum this wire to coil does plug in front of fuse panel so perhaps someone plugged it onto a hot terminal rather than switched?
He has a 1978 which is HEI, so the only wire he has to be concerned with to determine voltage being present is the BAT wire. It does not have the two wire set up like your car.
Something that could be important but maybe totally completely irrelevant here - My older '69 has an aftermarket ignition box and adding the box required me to install a diode to the voltage regulator circuit to cancel the back feeding of electricity to the ignition coil. Prevents this exact problem. Long shot I know.
01-22-2018, 10:58 AM
Car turns on, won't turn off
- My older '69 has an aftermarket ignition box and adding the box required me to install a diode to the voltage regulator circuit to cancel the back feeding of electricity to the ignition coil. Prevents this exact problem. Long shot I know.
