Tank Sticker Discovery
04-30-2018, 01:17 PM
#21
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I never knew that about tank stickers.
Another dumb question, why start over at 501? Why not just put the actual last 3 digits on the sticker? Just curious.
Another dumb question, why start over at 501? Why not just put the actual last 3 digits on the sticker? Just curious.
04-30-2018, 01:44 PM
#22
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Hi F4,
Ed will be able to explain more fully but until then here's the explanation of 'job numbers' from John Hinkley:
"The "job number" was assigned by the Production Scheduling department, and tied back to the dealer order for that unit so the body could be built with the correct body panels and option modifications to the various panels when they all came together on the main line in the Body Shop. The guys who built up all the off-line subassemblies had to know the body style and options for each unit for hole drilling, riveted brackets, clips, reinforcements, panel modifications, etc., and each station had a "run sheet" with 500 units on it; each job number showed the option conditions for that unit that affected the body build...."
"All the style and option-related parts had to come together on the Main Line so they all matched up to that unit's dealer order specifications, and the "run sheet" was also used in the Paint Shop for exterior and interior paint colors (the trim tag and VIN plate didn't get created/installed until after the body left the Paint Shop). After the body left the Paint Shop and was loaded on the Hard Trim Line, the "job number" was essentially meaningless."
Regards,
Alan
An example would be that the firewall needs to be cut for a car with the a/c option.
Ed will be able to explain more fully but until then here's the explanation of 'job numbers' from John Hinkley:
"The "job number" was assigned by the Production Scheduling department, and tied back to the dealer order for that unit so the body could be built with the correct body panels and option modifications to the various panels when they all came together on the main line in the Body Shop. The guys who built up all the off-line subassemblies had to know the body style and options for each unit for hole drilling, riveted brackets, clips, reinforcements, panel modifications, etc., and each station had a "run sheet" with 500 units on it; each job number showed the option conditions for that unit that affected the body build...."
"All the style and option-related parts had to come together on the Main Line so they all matched up to that unit's dealer order specifications, and the "run sheet" was also used in the Paint Shop for exterior and interior paint colors (the trim tag and VIN plate didn't get created/installed until after the body left the Paint Shop). After the body left the Paint Shop and was loaded on the Hard Trim Line, the "job number" was essentially meaningless."
Regards,
Alan
An example would be that the firewall needs to be cut for a car with the a/c option.
Last edited by Alan 71; 04-30-2018 at 02:03 PM.
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F4Gary (04-30-2018)
04-30-2018, 07:05 PM
#24
Racer
Thread Starter
On tank stickers there are no full VIN numbers. However, there are a set of three hand written numbers which run from 1 to 500 that will coincide with the last three digits of the vin.
On this particular sticker, the number 386 goes with a vin that ends in 886 which is 500 away and correct. This seems to work for cars 1968 and newer. On some 67's the vin number can be off by 2 or 3. On 68 and 69's there is usually only one set of three digits written on the tank sheet. On 70 and newer you will often see two sets of three digits. One will correspond to the vin, the other is some form of job number.
On 69's that have fake tank stickers you will often see just a job number written that does not correspond to the vin. I see this often on fake 69 stickers as the person who was making them had done some poor research....on the fake 69 sheets they would write the three digit number that they see written on body panels on the car. They didnt do that on 69's. It started in the 70's and only when both numbers are written in on the top. The only other exception is in 69 between VIN's 712000 and 717000. During this period for some reason one of the line workers hand wrote 4 digit numbers on the lower section of the sticker which were the last four of the vin. Its not on every single one, but on many between that time.
The tank stickers can also be traced back to specific VIN's by use of the Order Number and Ident Number that is on all tank stickers and window stickers. However, this info is not available to the general public. NCRS has this information and they use it as part of there verification process.
Part of the Ident Number is missing on the OP's tank sticker as its located in the left hand corner of the sheet, but the order number is present. Both numbers are unique numbers to each car. Its common to have the left hand corner ripped on the tank sheets. Its probably due to how the line workers torn the page off multilayered print outs.
On this particular sticker, the number 386 goes with a vin that ends in 886 which is 500 away and correct. This seems to work for cars 1968 and newer. On some 67's the vin number can be off by 2 or 3. On 68 and 69's there is usually only one set of three digits written on the tank sheet. On 70 and newer you will often see two sets of three digits. One will correspond to the vin, the other is some form of job number.
On 69's that have fake tank stickers you will often see just a job number written that does not correspond to the vin. I see this often on fake 69 stickers as the person who was making them had done some poor research....on the fake 69 sheets they would write the three digit number that they see written on body panels on the car. They didnt do that on 69's. It started in the 70's and only when both numbers are written in on the top. The only other exception is in 69 between VIN's 712000 and 717000. During this period for some reason one of the line workers hand wrote 4 digit numbers on the lower section of the sticker which were the last four of the vin. Its not on every single one, but on many between that time.
The tank stickers can also be traced back to specific VIN's by use of the Order Number and Ident Number that is on all tank stickers and window stickers. However, this info is not available to the general public. NCRS has this information and they use it as part of there verification process.
Part of the Ident Number is missing on the OP's tank sticker as its located in the left hand corner of the sheet, but the order number is present. Both numbers are unique numbers to each car. Its common to have the left hand corner ripped on the tank sheets. Its probably due to how the line workers torn the page off multilayered print outs.
For me this is like unraveling a mystery! BTW--are those things vents?
Thanks guys.
Last edited by ZRXGreen; 04-30-2018 at 07:06 PM.
04-30-2018, 07:09 PM
#25
Racer
Thread Starter
What are the pros and cons of leaving or removing as you all see it? Is value affected either way?
Thanks!
04-30-2018, 07:35 PM
#26
Boy I would try to remove and preserve it. maybe try an exacto knife underneath it at the adhesive areas.maybe its globbed on there enuf where u can cut it from the tank and not the paper. try on the end of it at least. I'm an original car type of guy so a different tank would be a big change,unless its condition warrants a change. My goal would be to get it off,presrve it in a folder and keep it away from light. its made it this far....
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ZRXGreen (04-30-2018)
05-01-2018, 07:31 AM
#27
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Hi ZRXG,
The vents are for the drain hosed for the Astro Ventilation plenums that are in the rear deck.
A short rubber tube runs from the plenums to those bezels.
Regards,
Alan
The plenum and tube shown in the rear compartment.
On coupes the tubes run to the sides (to the wheel wells).
The vents are for the drain hosed for the Astro Ventilation plenums that are in the rear deck.
A short rubber tube runs from the plenums to those bezels.
Regards,
Alan
The plenum and tube shown in the rear compartment.
On coupes the tubes run to the sides (to the wheel wells).
Last edited by Alan 71; 05-01-2018 at 07:37 AM.
05-01-2018, 08:32 AM
#29
Thank you very much. I'm still trying to decide if I should attempt to remove it, preserve it in place, etc. I've even heard of people replacing the gas tank and storing the original tank with sticker attached.
What are the pros and cons of leaving or removing as you all see it? Is value affected either way?
Thanks!
What are the pros and cons of leaving or removing as you all see it? Is value affected either way?
Thanks!
I am not sure if removing the tank sticker would affect the value of the car except to the positive because now you know you have it and a prospective buyer can see it. I got mine off by carefully using a one-sided razor blade. Here is a pic of mine.
05-01-2018, 04:19 PM
#31
Racer
Thread Starter
Hi ZRXG,
The vents are for the drain hosed for the Astro Ventilation plenums that are in the rear deck.
A short rubber tube runs from the plenums to those bezels.
Regards,
Alan
The plenum and tube shown in the rear compartment.
On coupes the tubes run to the sides (to the wheel wells).
The vents are for the drain hosed for the Astro Ventilation plenums that are in the rear deck.
A short rubber tube runs from the plenums to those bezels.
Regards,
Alan
The plenum and tube shown in the rear compartment.
On coupes the tubes run to the sides (to the wheel wells).
05-01-2018, 05:03 PM
#35
Le Mans Master
05-01-2018, 08:51 PM
#39
Melting Slicks
I've dealt with a couple resto-like situations where there is a tag or sticker. In general you would preserve it where people could see it in it's original location- unless it was in a very difficult original location to see. In this case as with body panel/vintag type of sticker I would preserve it into a 'history book' similar to what the dealer gives you with the car (maintenance book in the glove book sort of thing). This way it 'stays with the car' but also where you can actually get a look at it. Could include some photos of removing it, original tank/equipment, and so forth, to prove originality.
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ZRXGreen (05-01-2018)
05-01-2018, 09:01 PM
#40
Melting Slicks
It pays to check those rubber tubes if your car ever sees rain or water from washing going down the vents because when I got my coupe they were badly perished and would leak. Fortunately the PO had kept the car garaged and didn't drive it in the rain much. FWIW I replaced them with flexible electrical conduit as I figured it was more durable than the rubber.