Thinking of buying 1970 LT-1
05-17-2018, 08:30 AM
#21
Safety Car
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Location: Madeira Beach, FL
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Thank You,
It's important we look out for each other.
This definitely will help some unsuspecting new comer to the hobby
avoid being burnt.
Marshal
I would be very skeptical of this dealer. From what I have read I would not buy from this dealer unless I had the vehicle put under extreme scrutiny.
Read this CF forum post and the following link below of complaints:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-daisy-tn.html
https://www.google.com/search?q=ron%...hrome&ie=UTF-8[/QUOTE]
It's important we look out for each other.
This definitely will help some unsuspecting new comer to the hobby
avoid being burnt.
Marshal
I would be very skeptical of this dealer. From what I have read I would not buy from this dealer unless I had the vehicle put under extreme scrutiny.
Read this CF forum post and the following link below of complaints:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-daisy-tn.html
https://www.google.com/search?q=ron%...hrome&ie=UTF-8[/QUOTE]
05-17-2018, 08:44 AM
#22
Instructor
Thread Starter
BearCatFan9,
I've been scolded by the moderator before for not advancing the thread.
I hope this posting is not misconstrued as another non advancing reply.
Judging by your relative new interest in C-3's you went after the holy grail of small blocks.
These and big block cars are the most faked C-3's.
At $43,000, I would consider an LT1 to be an experienced enthusiast or a serious collector car.
This is not a car you look at on Tuesday and buy on Friday of the same week.
I'd recommend attending a big corvette venue like a Carlisle etc.... before ever thinking about committing to a purchase.
This is where you cut your teeth and get as much wisdom as you can absorb. You need to look at a crop of bad cars so you know a good one when it surfaces.
A real LT1 would not be bastardized like the above example described.
I would seek out some professional advise here on the forum from actual LT1 owners who have documented authentic cars.
If any are local to you see if you can make an appointment to see a real one. There are certain tell tale LT1 features which a genuine car should have.
At 43,000 do not rush to buy or you may have some serious buyers remorse later. The time to learn is before the purchase not after you buy it.
Ask a lot of questions first, read up and know the vehicle before you even begin your search.
You'll be glad you followed the advise of the older experienced members here.
Marshal
I've been scolded by the moderator before for not advancing the thread.
I hope this posting is not misconstrued as another non advancing reply.
Judging by your relative new interest in C-3's you went after the holy grail of small blocks.
These and big block cars are the most faked C-3's.
At $43,000, I would consider an LT1 to be an experienced enthusiast or a serious collector car.
This is not a car you look at on Tuesday and buy on Friday of the same week.
I'd recommend attending a big corvette venue like a Carlisle etc.... before ever thinking about committing to a purchase.
This is where you cut your teeth and get as much wisdom as you can absorb. You need to look at a crop of bad cars so you know a good one when it surfaces.
A real LT1 would not be bastardized like the above example described.
I would seek out some professional advise here on the forum from actual LT1 owners who have documented authentic cars.
If any are local to you see if you can make an appointment to see a real one. There are certain tell tale LT1 features which a genuine car should have.
At 43,000 do not rush to buy or you may have some serious buyers remorse later. The time to learn is before the purchase not after you buy it.
Ask a lot of questions first, read up and know the vehicle before you even begin your search.
You'll be glad you followed the advise of the older experienced members here.
Marshal
05-17-2018, 08:46 AM
#23
Instructor
Thread Starter
05-17-2018, 09:54 AM
#24
Burning Brakes
05-17-2018, 11:23 AM
#25
Drifting
Don't know anything about this dealer. But judging by the photos, I wouldn't buy that car if I was looking for an investment grade LT-1. That car is not an investment grade LT-1, and it's not properly "restored". Lots of things that are incorrect about it.
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marshal135 (05-17-2018)
05-17-2018, 04:23 PM
#27
Safety Car
Member Since: Sep 2011
Location: Madeira Beach, FL
Posts: 3,559
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2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
BearCatFan9,
Go to the cars for sale section before its gone and look at the gold 72 LT1 for sale.
This is what 40,000 ish gets you.
This is the car to spend your money on.
Marshal
Go to the cars for sale section before its gone and look at the gold 72 LT1 for sale.
This is what 40,000 ish gets you.
This is the car to spend your money on.
Marshal
05-18-2018, 07:51 PM
#28
Melting Slicks
Lt1
Kind Regards,
Bill
05-18-2018, 09:56 PM
#29
Drifting
It's true that the 1970 LT-1 is at the top of the heap of the 3 model years that they were available, in terms of collector value. But remember that the '72 horsepower rating was measured with all driven accessories, while the '70 model was measured without. Gross vs net, definitely not an apples-to-apples comparison. So in reality, the difference in actual seat-of-the-pants acceleration is not all that great. Dial in today's crap fuel, and the '70 LT-1 with it's 11:1 compression may not perform the way it was designed to. The lower compression '72 runs fine on it though. Something to consider if you actually want to drive the car. And if you want factory A/C, the '72 is the only year that it was available. '72 is also the only year that includes an "L" in the VIN to confirm that it's a factory LT-1. Prior years require documentation to confirm. Another plus for the '72 model year.
That gold/black '72 LT-1 in the classifieds is absolutely stunning.
That gold/black '72 LT-1 in the classifieds is absolutely stunning.
Last edited by Tonio; 05-18-2018 at 10:01 PM.
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MCMLXI (05-21-2018)
05-19-2018, 11:11 AM
#30
Safety Car
take several of these comments aside..
what are your requirements?
if you require a pristine 70 convertible in excellent condition, no rust LT1 option, correct on many many major original parts, and doc, then 43K ain't gonna cut it. especially from a dealer. plan on 65K plus. start subtracting for rust, lower condition, NOM, lack of authentication, etc.. and you approach a 20K car. this car seems to be somewhere in between. with the dealer mark up.. then there you are.
throw out the obvious LT1 chatter here and look at the car for what it is. a nice paint 70 convertible with no rust, good condition with incomplete proof of LT1 option. maybe high 20's to low 30's before a obvious 30% dealer markup.
you are not going to get a true no excuses LT1 1970 great condition convertible for 43K.
what are your requirements?
if you require a pristine 70 convertible in excellent condition, no rust LT1 option, correct on many many major original parts, and doc, then 43K ain't gonna cut it. especially from a dealer. plan on 65K plus. start subtracting for rust, lower condition, NOM, lack of authentication, etc.. and you approach a 20K car. this car seems to be somewhere in between. with the dealer mark up.. then there you are.
throw out the obvious LT1 chatter here and look at the car for what it is. a nice paint 70 convertible with no rust, good condition with incomplete proof of LT1 option. maybe high 20's to low 30's before a obvious 30% dealer markup.
you are not going to get a true no excuses LT1 1970 great condition convertible for 43K.
10-04-2018, 02:30 AM
#31
Administrator
Member Since: Jul 2000
Location: About 1100 miles from where I call home. Blue lives matter.
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BearCatFan9,
I've been scolded by the moderator before for not advancing the thread.
I hope this posting is not misconstrued as another non advancing reply.
Judging by your relative new interest in C-3's you went after the holy grail of small blocks.
These and big block cars are the most faked C-3's.
At $43,000, I would consider an LT1 to be an experienced enthusiast or a serious collector car.
This is not a car you look at on Tuesday and buy on Friday of the same week.
I'd recommend attending a big corvette venue like a Carlisle etc.... before ever thinking about committing to a purchase.
This is where you cut your teeth and get as much wisdom as you can absorb. You need to look at a crop of bad cars so you know a good one when it surfaces.
A real LT1 would not be bastardized like the above example described.
I would seek out some professional advise here on the forum from actual LT1 owners who have documented authentic cars.
If any are local to you see if you can make an appointment to see a real one. There are certain tell tale LT1 features which a genuine car should have.
At 43,000 do not rush to buy or you may have some serious buyers remorse later. The time to learn is before the purchase not after you buy it.
Ask a lot of questions first, read up and know the vehicle before you even begin your search.
You'll be glad you followed the advise of the older experienced members here.
Marshal
I've been scolded by the moderator before for not advancing the thread.
I hope this posting is not misconstrued as another non advancing reply.
Judging by your relative new interest in C-3's you went after the holy grail of small blocks.
These and big block cars are the most faked C-3's.
At $43,000, I would consider an LT1 to be an experienced enthusiast or a serious collector car.
This is not a car you look at on Tuesday and buy on Friday of the same week.
I'd recommend attending a big corvette venue like a Carlisle etc.... before ever thinking about committing to a purchase.
This is where you cut your teeth and get as much wisdom as you can absorb. You need to look at a crop of bad cars so you know a good one when it surfaces.
A real LT1 would not be bastardized like the above example described.
I would seek out some professional advise here on the forum from actual LT1 owners who have documented authentic cars.
If any are local to you see if you can make an appointment to see a real one. There are certain tell tale LT1 features which a genuine car should have.
At 43,000 do not rush to buy or you may have some serious buyers remorse later. The time to learn is before the purchase not after you buy it.
Ask a lot of questions first, read up and know the vehicle before you even begin your search.
You'll be glad you followed the advise of the older experienced members here.
Marshal
Posts that do not advance a member's for sale thread are Interference.
A post in someone's thread asking a question about a car they are looking at has absolutely nothing to do with Interference at all.
