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Picked up my exhaust system from being ceramic coated. I had it coated in and out in an effort to keep under hood and cabin heat down. Here's a few pictures.
Looks really nice. If it does like my coated headers did, and I think like most do, it will fade to a dull silver after some heat cycles, which was fine by me too. My headers started out looking almost like chrome when first plated.
Looks really nice. If it does like my coated headers did, and I think like most do, it will fade to a dull silver after some heat cycles, which was fine by me too. My headers started out looking almost like chrome when first plated.
I am fine if it fades. My concern is reducing under hood heat as well as cabin heat. I am just getting excited that I'm getting close to starting the final touches on the body. I'm hoping to have the body ready for paint in the fall.
Best way I found to keep heat down in cabin was to dynamat and fix all the insulation under the car and splash shields . Your car is looking great so far .Nice job
Best way I found to keep heat down in cabin was to dynamat and fix all the insulation under the car and splash shields . Your car is looking great so far .Nice job
on the Dynamat.
And I also agree...very nice looking and nice job!
I have uncoated stainless headers and exhaust on my 77.....NO heat transfer at all into the car. But, here is what I did:
- Two coats Lizard Skin sprayed on entire inside floor and firewall
- Factory style firewall blanket
- Reflectix (from Lowes) under carpet
- Factory foam horse shoe seal around top of bell housing - prevents heat back into transmission tunnel
- Factory hood seal across back of hood - prevents engine heat from getting into wiper bay and then into A pillar vents
- All new seals on vent doors
- NO factory heat, i.e. no heater lines and no water circulating in heater core
- NO airconditioning
- 77 Vettes do not have underbody shields, and mine doesn't
My right foot is only a couple inches away from the headers, and I feel ZERO heat, the car is no hotter inside on a 90 degree day than outside the car.
My factory four speed shifter is not even hot after hours of driving
NO heat problems at all....and again, I have uncoated stainless steel headers and exhaust, made by StainlessWorks in Cleveland.
Last edited by Torqued Off; 05-19-2018 at 07:37 PM.
As you have gathered. There are different ways of insulating your interior from radiant heat.
All I will say is that doing it is a must IF you want the interior to be comfortable. What the factory had back in those days is just not up to the task of doing what needs to be done.
Best way I found to keep heat down in cabin was to dynamat and fix all the insulation under the car and splash shields . Your car is looking great so far .Nice job
I agree on the Dynamat. It is in my plan. This is my first step at this point. When I get to the body I will be using Dynamat.
I have uncoated stainless headers and exhaust on my 77.....NO heat transfer at all into the car. But, here is what I did:
- Two coats Lizard Skin sprayed on entire inside floor and firewall
- Factory style firewall blanket
- Reflectix (from Lowes) under carpet
- Factory foam horse shoe seal around top of bell housing - prevents heat back into transmission tunnel
- Factory hood seal across back of hood - prevents engine heat from getting into wiper bay and then into A pillar vents
- All new seals on vent doors
- NO factory heat, i.e. no heater lines and no water circulating in heater core
- NO airconditioning
- 77 Vettes do not have underbody shields, and mine doesn't
My right foot is only a couple inches away from the headers, and I feel ZERO heat, the car is no hotter inside on a 90 degree day than outside the car.
My factory four speed shifter is not even hot after hours of driving
NO heat problems at all....and again, I have uncoated stainless steel headers and exhaust, made by StainlessWorks in Cleveland.
Some of my concerns is with the under hood air temperature. My car will use the open air filter. I am trying to lower the temperature of the combustion air. Lower temp, more oxygen in the mixture.
Some of my concerns is with the under hood air temperature. My car will use the open air filter. I am trying to lower the temperature of the combustion air. Lower temp, more oxygen in the mixture.
I understand your concern.
But honestly you are only going to be able to do so much. Meaning that unless you incorporate a fresh air system...or cowl inducted hood that is sealed. The under hood temps are gong to effect the air being pulled into the engine.
This is why....as you know...about 99.9% of cars today pull flesh air from in front of the radiator and none of this air is influenced by the engine compartment temps.
You are kinda caught up in a CATCH 22. If you seal up the radiator support area so all of the incoming air can be challenged through it to aid in cooling the engine...then the air coming out if it is heated...and getting into the engine compartment.
I have commented on this in the past and is appropriate here. And this is strictly a common sense viewpoint....no scientific analysis at all.
I think heat buildup in a Corvette is worse when the engine compartment is cluttered with airconditioning pumps, air pumps, emissions garbage, heater hoses, etc. It only makes sense that any obstructions to airflow through the compartment would tend to cause stagnant heated air, and less ventilation. The front fender side openings on 73 and later cars are actually functional outlets for heat.
I also have a Dewitts aluminum radiator, and I have installed factory TOP hood seal, but did NOT install the seals on both left and right sides of the radiator. The reason I did not install that was simply cause I could not find seal that would work with the Dewitts radiator. I figured I would run it and see how the temps were, and my car runs a solid 180 degrees all day long, no matter how hot it is outside. SO, I don't have any need to seal it better.
What this does do is allow outside air to flow into the engine compartment, and in theory with that positive cool outside air flowing in, without all the garbage obstructions in the way, and flowing out of the front fender side vents and down, I suspect I have very good ventilation going down the road.
Just something to think about...! With good ventilation, and proper heat barriers, my car is as cool inside as it is outside....I have never once felt the car was hot inside like I hear reported so often. In fact, on cooler days, I sometimes wish I did get a little engine heat since my car is heater delete. But,....that's what coats are for.
Last edited by Torqued Off; 05-22-2018 at 05:50 PM.
All well and good for a person who wants to take many components off their engine to try to make it run cooler.
Your philosophy in this seems to make some sense but I feel it really has no merit due to no matter what. The issue here is the temperature of the air going into the carb. The air is still being heated up by the fact that the air is passing through the radiator
...so it is pre-heated...not like current cars of today.
Taking components off to lower temps by a few degrees is all up to the person. Much like dropping curb weight for whatever reason a person chooses to do that. It is all in what THEY want for their car. I am good with it. If it works for you like you say it does.
I have no problem in that at all. I just know I would not due to I want a heater...A/C and so on.
The BENEFIT your engine has is that you still have a fan on the water pump and it is not an electric fan. SO..when you are sitting at a stop light...air has some movement int the engine compartment.
Cars with electric fans....well...I guess you know what is gong on and the under hood temps can climb due to NO air circulation when it is sitting still and the fans are not running.
All well and good for a person who wants to take many components off their engine to try to make it run cooler.
Your philosophy in this seems to make some sense but I feel it really has no merit due to no matter what. The issue here is the temperature of the air going into the carb. The air is still being heated up by the fact that the air is passing through the radiator
...so it is pre-heated...not like current cars of today.
Taking components off to lower temps by a few degrees is all up to the person. Much like dropping curb weight for whatever reason a person chooses to do that. It is all in what THEY want for their car. I am good with it. If it works for you like you say it does.
I have no problem in that at all. I just know I would not due to I want a heater...A/C and so on.
The BENEFIT your engine has is that you still have a fan on the water pump and it is not an electric fan. SO..when you are sitting at a stop light...air has some movement int the engine compartment.
Cars with electric fans....well...I guess you know what is gong on and the under hood temps can climb due to NO air circulation when it is sitting still and the fans are not running.
I have commented on this in the past and is appropriate here. And this is strictly a common sense viewpoint....no scientific analysis at all.
I think heat buildup in a Corvette is worse when the engine compartment is cluttered with airconditioning pumps, air pumps, emissions garbage, heater hoses, etc. It only makes sense that any obstructions to airflow through the compartment would tend to cause stagnant heated air, and less ventilation. The front fender side openings on 73 and later cars are actually functional outlets for heat.
I also have a Dewitts aluminum radiator, and I have installed factory TOP hood seal, but did NOT install the seals on both left and right sides of the radiator. The reason I did not install that was simply cause I could not find seal that would work with the Dewitts radiator. I figured I would run it and see how the temps were, and my car runs a solid 180 degrees all day long, no matter how hot it is outside. SO, I don't have any need to seal it better.
What this does do is allow outside air to flow into the engine compartment, and in theory with that positive cool outside air flowing in, without all the garbage obstructions in the way, and flowing out of the front fender side vents and down, I suspect I have very good ventilation going down the road.
Just something to think about...! With good ventilation, and proper heat barriers, my car is as cool inside as it is outside....I have never once felt the car was hot inside like I hear reported so often. In fact, on cooler days, I sometimes wish I did get a little engine heat since my car is heater delete. But,....that's what coats are for.
Nice engine bay. I see you have a spreader bar installed but still run a factory fan. Can you info on that bar and where I could get one. Thank you for your input.
Nice engine bay. I see you have a spreader bar installed but still run a factory fan. Can you info on that bar and where I could get one. Thank you for your input.
Thanks for the compliment. Its a Speed Direct Adjustable spreader bar, bought it direct from them....google their website. It runs pretty close to the fan, since there is not a lot of room in there, but it clears it as much as it needs to. I noticed immediate difference in handling with the bar....very much worth it.
Last edited by Torqued Off; 05-23-2018 at 07:14 AM.
If you get down my way in Easton, PA I have some floor insulation material I would be glad to give you that does wonders at keeping the heat down in the car. As with many other items developed since the cars were built in the 70's, heat insulation has come a long way. Thinner, stronger, better. Just think of the coats we have today for winter versus what we had in the 70's; thinner, lighter, stronger. Same idea. Anyway, come on down my way sometime and I will share some of it with you.
Best regards,
David
05-19-2018, 03:19 PM
Silent Restorer
on the Dynamat.
