Indigoblue

Was wondering if you have instructions or video tutorial on how to change the master cylinder on a 1978, what all has to be done as far as bleeding it ( if need be) and how to do, any tips and tricks...and if I need to bleed it, is there some kind of kit available....can it be bleed on car or does it have to be done before installation..?? Had mine changed about 2 years ago and do not use car very much ( maybe 150 miles in last two years)...but seems to be weeping fluid where it bolts to the brake booster...someone told me it could be a rear seal on the master cylinder...???? Don't know since for all practical purposes its basically new....and I don't know much about them....
Also any suggestions on changing back calipers...I know the back drivers side is not working right....
Sorry for all the questions...and thanks for the help...
Brian

Julio Santaella Rosa

suprkoop

it's not mine, but I followed along with this site, has some good pointers. There are others who can supply you with info but you can start reading here..http://www.corvette-restoration.com/

0Willcox Corvette

You'll need to bench bleed the master cylinder before you install it, most replacement cylinders come with the plugs and instructions on how to do this when you buy a rebuilt unit.

You don't want to bleed the master cylinder on the car, it takes too much time, it's easier to do on the bench.

You'll also need to bleed the entire brake system once installed and I'd highly advise you find a local shop that can do this with a pressure bleeder.

When we do the calipers in our shop we only do them in pairs... either two fronts or two rears. Past history has told us that if we replace just one caliper on say.... the left side, the right side will blow next. My best advice I can give you on this is to use only stainless steel sleeved calipers when you do the replacement.

Sorry for the delayed response, I've been out of town again.

Willcox

0Willcox Corvette

None that I know of aside from the link above. But, for us... We like to remove as much weight from the car as possible. We just re-framed a 72 this year and we removed all the interior from the car, we removed the doors and anything that added weight to the lift. I've got a hydraulic crane that'll pick he body up with or without this stuff but it seems to go easier if we remove what we can.

If you do remove the doors, remove the door panels and the access plates and then take a cheap spray can and paint over the bolts before you remove them. Assuming the hinges and bushings are in good shape, this will leave you with a witness mark for re-assembling.

Getting the body mounting bolts loose can also be a challenge...

When you pick up the body off the frame you want to find a U hook style dolly strap and you want to remove the side rocker panels. Once you do this you can hook the U under the furthest part of the body under the sill and you then hook the front as far forward as possible. I've got some pictures of this somewhere, I'll try to post them tomorrow.

Willcox

richopp

Hi, Probably a dumb question but I can't find anything on the Forum about it. Is it possible to retrofit a T&T w/cruise column from a C3 or C4 to a C2? Obviously the cruise components would be required, but wanted to know if the column itself could be retrofitted to fit.

Thanks!

0Willcox Corvette

Without major mods, no it can't be done. If you look at your dash cluster bezel you'll see how small the opening is for the steering column, it's very small. On the c3 and c4 columns the top of the column is twice the size. You'd have to machine the opening to a much larger size to accommodate the larger diameter column. If you did this I'm still not sure the column would be long enough. I've never tried this. You'd be better off going with an aftermarket steering column with tilt only. The aftermarket tilt columns work great and if you'd like us to get you a price on this email me at service@willcoxcorvette.com and I'd be happy to get you one.

The reason I say go tilt only is that the tilt tele columns push the wheel closer to you then the tilt only columns. We recently installed one in a 68 in the shop and the tilt works great but if we'd have gone with the tilt/tele column we would have been in trouble because the customer was a bit on the large side... pushing the column toward him more wouldn't gain anything because he'd have to have the column tele'd all the way inward just to drive the car. I hope this makes sense..

Ernie

naramlee

Hey Ernie,
Kinda beating a dead horse here, but I need your knowledge. About the separating door skin I asked you about earlier, how do you recommend going about re-attaching after it's cleaned, prepped and ready to epoxy it? Should I heat the fiberglass from the inside to loosen it up to bend it back into place? My idea is using a cloth wrapped 2x4 to evenly apply pressure along the seam and use spring loaded clamps on it to continually apply pressure while it cures. Just wondering if you think the paint and fiberglass needs to be heated for this.

Julio Santaella Rosa

richopp

Thank you very much for taking your time to answer a somewhat bad question. I totally understand your reply and will proceed as you have directed. When I am ready, I will contact you at your business.
Cheers!

0Willcox Corvette

To separate the skin from the metal frame I'd definitely heat the fiberglass panel. I have a tool I made years ago that is made out of a very old and thick putty knife. I put a crook in it and sharpened all edges so that I can drive it into the bonding glue. Once I heat the glue it gets soft, then you can drive it in place and tap along as you heat the material. I use a heat gun and you must be careful not to burn the fiberglass, if you do it won't be worth a hoot in regards to repairing, so my advice for you would be to use a blow drier... it's safer and has less risk. If you go to this link and to page two you'll see the tool I made... it's sharp on all three lower sides, the upper portion isn't sharp because I use a brass hammer to tap it at the top and push though the bonding agent. I use this tool to do the header bars, door skins and even when separating say a lower fender panel from the upper surround panel. http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/w...stallation.pdf

As far as gluing... you have to make sure you don't over clamp the skin to the door panel, if you do you'll push all the glue out. Make sure you have both the metal and the fiberglass scuff real good too, you want that glue to have something to bite to.

Ernie

0Willcox Corvette

Typically, I'd rub grease all the way round the gear teeth on the large plastic side filling the teeth up.... and just a tiny bit on the smaller drive gear on the regulator. The reason for the small amount is just to give it enough lubrication, on the larger side it's sealed, but on the smaller side it's not and this can attract dirt and grime over time so be pretty reserved when you do the smaller side.

Ernie

naramlee

thanks ever so much Ernie!!

0Willcox Corvette

Your most welcome... I'm enjoying this thread that's for sure....

E

0Willcox Corvette

Not a bad question at all.... in fact to me, the only bad question is one that is never asked....

Ernie

naramlee

hey Ernie... you should negotiate for pay-per-question basis instead of hourly :P

Do you know anything about the state of the outer window felts for '76? The site says ask for more info due to backorder. I need outers and I believe inner whiskers? You can see all down inside my window channel from both sides and it's rather annoying.


Door Felts. Coupe Outer Reproduction 69-82 283061 42578

0Willcox Corvette

I'm having the site updated tomorrow morning, there are over 100 sets in stock at this time so there isn't any backorder. Sorry for the mistake.
E

naramlee

is it possible to get these added onto my order? or should I call in for that?

0Willcox Corvette

I sent Tommy a message, email me at service@Willcoxcorvette.com and I'll let you know.

sjstub

Any tricks to installing the inside door handle? How do you hold the spring out in order to install a new handle?