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Not really, on the c5 cars most of the codes can be picked up from the DIC. A scanner will show you a few more codes but DIC will show you history. As bad as I hate to say it, we stopped doing electrical work on c4 and c5 cars about 10 years ago. The flow charts in the c4 books suck and often will send you on a wild goose chase. C5 cars are a bit easier because of the DIC.
Innova makes a few different styles and seem to be a bit on the lower end scale cost wise, we have one here but since we stopped doing electrical work on the later cars we rarely use is. https://www.innova.com/en-US/Product...4-4c0dea8a7168
Thanks for the fast responds. I know how to pull codes, but I was in hopes of getting somthing that could tell me the communication between modulars, relay and bcm. I heard whispers that with the right scanner you can make each function do its thing, and view the communication with the scanner...
I guess that would be to easy.... lol
Sorry, I guess I didn't understand the question...
Yes there is a scanner that will do this but you'd better be prepared to spend around 4 - 5 k for a good one. I'll have to check today or tomorrow to see what we have here. Like I said it's been a long time for me.
No thank you, It’s better to pay an hour for someone with a $5k Diagnostic scanner.
There are several different brands out there... but I believe what we have is called a Master Tech 1. It'll do just about anything. Snap On makes too, and this might be what we have (it's been a long time) but it won't allow you into the security.
Then I think there is another company called auto enginuity that'll work, but like I said, the only one that'll do everything is the one the dealerships use. I'd take the car to a dealership, they're the only one that'll be able to diagnosis any issue but the labor will kill you and then finding a good one that has a tech that can read, use and repair the car is another subject.
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 11-15-2018 at 11:40 AM.
I understand .. I’m going to turkey run, I might find somthing there, or maybe someone wants my vette more then me... I love the... my shop manuals mention tech 2 and interrogator K-35628-a. Still doing homework...
Hi Ernie, working on the dash lights on my 71 project. Nothing working either lights or gauges . Where do I start tracking things down? Headlights and seat belt light work as well as running lights, turn signals. Where should I start................................... ..................................lookin g for gremlins!
Than You
Hi Ernie, working on the dash lights on my 71 project. Nothing working either lights or gauges . Where do I start tracking things down? Headlights and seat belt light work as well as running lights, turn signals. Where should I start................................... ..................................lookin g for gremlins!
Than You
RVZIO
I'd make sure the fuse is good first, testing from terminal to terminal. Many times people test the fuse but the fuse can be good and the terminals can be corroded which will not pass continuity.
If you pull the lamps on and you don't have power to the left side of the fuse then I'd look at the headlamp switch. The dash lamps pull power from the headlamp switch on the green wire at the headlamp switch connector. This green wire runs to the the fuse panel and comes out of the fuse panel as a gray wire. So I'd check power at one of the bulb sockets if you have power to the left and passing through the fuse. If you do have power on the lamp socket center wire then I'd run a temporary jumper ground to the housing and see if the lamps work.
I suspect you may have a switch issue or a ground issue, they are most common when trying to find out why the lamps are not working.
But.. you also stated the gauges are not working and this is controlled through the ground at the temperature gauge itself. So running a temporary jumper to the cluster may tell you the answer to this as well. The main cluster ground on the dash bezel center is the temperature gauge. If you look at the second picture down, in the temperature gauge assembly instructions... in the top middle picture you'll see the middle terminal is in contact with the metal backing of the housing. This is the main ground for the cluster assembly.... When you turn the key on what do the gauges do???? that would be my next question. Any one of the gauges and how they function with the key on will usually tell you if they are missing ground, missing ohms or missing power. So that would be something I'd check quickly too. There is a tech page on my repair site for the fuel and temp gauges.. in regards to how they read and telling you what they are missing. http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/?yt=1971&s=temperature+gauge+
Do you have the correct washers on the temp gauge too... this could cause the issue.
Ernie
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 11-17-2018 at 02:31 PM.
Thank you Ernie, little that I knew I thought that would be today's work but I needed to stop and get as much the interior install to bring the car to the Turkey Rod Run for sale. If the car doesn't sell then I will start with the gauges and the info will help. Printing it out right now..................................... ........................................ .
Thank you Ernie, little that I knew I thought that would be today's work but I needed to stop and get as much the interior install to bring the car to the Turkey Rod Run for sale. If the car doesn't sell then I will start with the gauges and the info will help. Printing it out right now..................................... ........................................ .
Oh, I can keep'em coming... lol! I just didn't want to be plugging up your thread. I'm going to need to get you on retainer! (69, auto) I posted a thread on the tech section on replacing a leaking linkage seal on the TH400. I'm a little salty about it because I JUST put the body back on the chassis when this would have been a very easy thing to do. The lack of room no poses a challenge. A few people have weighed in so I'd like to get your input if you can. The direction seems to be just drive the old seal back a bit and then put the new seal over it - double seal. I do have the seal removal tool that I've got to pick up at NAPA later today or tomorrow but I don't think I'll have the room.
So that's one for ya...I also have a question about the neutral safety switch and the wiring. So I've replaced all the wiring in the car and I'm hooking everything up now. Before I started this the reverse lights didn't work but I was tearing everything out anyway so I didn't mess with it much. The safety switch has four wires two purple, one light green, and one pink. The pink and light green wire have a lead that connects to the main harness pink and light green wires. Here the issue.... when you plug in the connection, the wire colors reverse, meaning the light green from the switch changes to the pink and likewise with the pink....pink from the switch changes to the light green harness wire. The swap at the connection. The wiring diagram and conventional wisdom tells me that it should be light green with light green and pink with pink... but it's not. It was like this with the old wiring and is now like this with the new wiring. So. My guess is, is that the spades from the switch lead got swapped at some point? I just think its the switch as it's the only thing that's remained the same. Thoughts?
Oh, I can keep'em coming... lol! I just didn't want to be plugging up your thread. I'm going to need to get you on retainer! (69, auto) I posted a thread on the tech section on replacing a leaking linkage seal on the TH400. I'm a little salty about it because I JUST put the body back on the chassis when this would have been a very easy thing to do. The lack of room no poses a challenge. A few people have weighed in so I'd like to get your input if you can. The direction seems to be just drive the old seal back a bit and then put the new seal over it - double seal. I do have the seal removal tool that I've got to pick up at NAPA later today or tomorrow but I don't think I'll have the room.
Nick
I'm a bit busy this morning but let's knock this one out first.
Part of the issue with the shifter shaft seal is that people will drive a screw driver in the side of the seal and score the shifter shaft. So replacing this seal is useless if the seal was replaced in this manner. What happens is that the shifter shaft will get scored from the screw driver and once this happens it'll just eat up the new seal.
So... my advice... First I'd buy the correct tool to pull the seal out of the housing. I have the original Kent-Moore tool but you can buy one pretty cheap on the bay... I posted the link below. What you do is screw the remover into the seal, then you place the bolt in the end and it will pull the seal out without damaging the shaft.
If the shaft is damaged, and you'll have to look really hard at it to determine this. You have to pull the pan and remove the shaft paying attention as to how it comes out. Once it's out access the damage and in some cases we can chuck it up in the lathe and using crocus cloth... smooth it out... But in most cases the damage has been done and so replacing it is the best option. Driving another seal over the old one is nuts, if the issue is there odds are someone's already damaged the shaft but the best way is to use the correct puller and then evaluate. Here is a link to a tool that'll pull the seal the correct way and it's by no way an endorsement to buy a china tool or for the seller... it was the first one that came up when I searched.
If you find the shaft is gouged, then replace it... and they are coming harder to find these days. I"m not sure how the little puke guy showed up but I checked and the link still works.
I'm a bit busy this morning but let's knock this one out first.
Part of the issue with the shifter shaft seal is that people will drive a screw driver in the side of the seal and score the shifter shaft. So replacing this seal is useless if the seal was replaced in this manner. What happens is that the shifter shaft will get scored from the screw driver and once this happens it'll just eat up the new seal.
So... my advice... First I'd buy the correct tool to pull the seal out of the housing. I have the original Kent-Moore tool but you can buy one pretty cheap on the bay... I posted the link below. What you do is screw the remover into the seal, then you place the bolt in the end and it will pull the seal out without damaging the shaft.
If the shaft is damaged, and you'll have to look really hard at it to determine this. You have to pull the pan and remove the shaft paying attention as to how it comes out. Once it's out access the damage and in some cases we can chuck it up in the lathe and using crocus cloth... smooth it out... But in most cases the damage has been done and so replacing it is the best option. Driving another seal over the old one is nuts, if the issue is there odds are someone's already damaged the shaft but the best way is to use the correct puller and then evaluate. Here is a link to a tool that'll pull the seal the correct way and it's by no way an endorsement to buy a china tool or for the seller... it was the first one that came up when I searched.
If you find the shaft is gouged, then replace it... and they are coming harder to find these days. I"m not sure how the little puke guy showed up but I checked and the link still works.
Thanks Ernie.
You've used that tool, making this repair with the body on the chassis?? Cuz there is not a lot of room between the tranny and the body tunnel. It will be a challenge to get a good look in there at the shaft too. Is this the shaft to replace if it's found to be gouged out? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...yABEgJECPD_BwE
Thanks Ernie.
You've used that tool, making this repair with the body on the chassis?? Cuz there is not a lot of room between the tranny and the body tunnel. It will be a challenge to get a good look in there at the shaft too. Is this the shaft to replace if it's found to be gouged out? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...yABEgJECPD_BwE
The original shaft was part number 8626979, this number changed to 8679990 and is stocked in the Memphis warehouse. It's about 45 dollars for the original one, I don't have a clue about the number you posted above. That part number is not even in our system so I'm skeptical... also there are china made replacements but I don't care much for China parts.
So that's one for ya...I also have a question about the neutral safety switch and the wiring. So I've replaced all the wiring in the car and I'm hooking everything up now. Before I started this the reverse lights didn't work but I was tearing everything out anyway so I didn't mess with it much. The safety switch has four wires two purple, one light green, and one pink. The pink and light green wire have a lead that connects to the main harness pink and light green wires. Here the issue.... when you plug in the connection, the wire colors reverse, meaning the light green from the switch changes to the pink and likewise with the pink....pink from the switch changes to the light green harness wire. The swap at the connection. The wiring diagram and conventional wisdom tells me that it should be light green with light green and pink with pink... but it's not. It was like this with the old wiring and is now like this with the new wiring. So. My guess is, is that the spades from the switch lead got swapped at some point? I just think its the switch as it's the only thing that's remained the same. Thoughts?
Thanks Ernie!
Nick
Okay, a bit more time this morning... The light green should match up with the light green and pink with pink. You might un-pin the terminals in your connector and just switch them. Either way it's just a basic A/B switch that transfers power so it will work correctly either way IMHO.
I had to do some digging in the archives here, but this is what I found:
The original 1971 canister was part number 7028129 and the part number for the 1972 canister was 7030605. However, in the 1971 and the 1972 Corvette parts book, revised Sept 1971 the part number had changed to 7030541 and was listed as 71-72.
In the 1984 Corvette parts book revised Dec, 1983 it shows the part number changed again to 17056582 and this shows fitting everything from 1970-1973. I then ran 17056582 through out system and found another number change to part number 17063011 which happened around 1990... Again, this new number showed fitting 1970-1973 cars. Unfortunately, this number has been discontinued.
So to answer your question... will it work... yeah you shouldn't have any issues with it working or fitting the brackets.
Ernie
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 11-20-2018 at 11:21 AM.
11-15-2018, 08:40 AM
SPSFirst Class!47130!US!-1:rk:4:pf:0
