0Willcox Corvette

The locking rod inside the column is controlled by the rack assembly and I doubt the rod is damaged, the rack probably gave out. The lock cylinder has a rectangular hole in the end of it and the rod that holds the rack plastic gear slides into this. Then there is a spring that is attached to the column, the rod and the gear. When the ignition is turned off in the lock position this rod is forced upwards. Typically the teeth on are ok, it's usually the rack just broke.

Here is the rack....

Eliredandblack

Ernie
Thanks for the info on the steering wheel lock rack. Is the gear next to or part of the “key left in the ignition” spring/device that causes the buzz to sound? If both parts are close to each other, would it be smart to fix both at the same time?
Thanks
Eli

0Willcox Corvette

The key warning buzzer switch is under the rack (column) lockng wheel... and you'll be in there when/if you take it apart. The key warning buzzer switch is located as pictured below by the top of the 3'oclock arrow.

Dirty Dalton

You might try one of these: https://fein.com/en_us/multi-tools/t...r-top-0342759/

I've cut some amazing stuff with mine. It's a handy-dandy tool. Good luck!

0Willcox Corvette

You guys.. I must admit it... When we bought the plasma cutter years ago..... I walked around for two days just looking for stuff to cut... lol... I was like a kid in the candy store.

Since this it has probably become one of the most used tools in the shop. I've made custom lids for the brake pressure bleeder, all kinds of custom tools... it's like cutting butter with a die grinder... So, if you can afford it and you have a good supply of compressed air... these things are the bomb.

One thing we do with it that actually saves customers money is on the C2 and C3 rear suspension jobs. To explain... cutting out the trailing arm bolt can be very time consuming if you can't get it out. We have another tool we made to screw onto the bolt (which curves to keep us from hitting the side of the rear quarter panel) and then we use a air hammer on it.

If this fails you have another option of cutting the bolt and the bushing which can take a couple of hours plus.

For us, when we get to this point we whip out the plasma cutter and slice the arm off at the frame. Once the arm is cut next to the frame we take the plasma cutter and cut the bolt inside the frame. Yes we trash an arm, but the cost to replace the arm is way cheaper than the cost to cut out the bolt, the bushing and the hardened sleeve and waste all that time...

So... plasma if you can afford it, other options are available. I don't have that tool Dalton posted so I have no feedback but I'm positive that it would be cheaper then buying a plasma cutter.... but if you can afford one... get one.

E

0Willcox Corvette

Good deal, I just checked in and there are no other questions. If I missed one please re-post it. I'll check back sometime tomorrow.

tmckemy

Thanks - I just spent an hour with a hacksaw blade cutting off the top of the passenger side bolt. I'm beginning to think the cost of a plasma cutter isn't too steep...

Oh well. On to the driver's side.

0Willcox Corvette

Yeah.. my exact point... when we punt after the arm bolts won't come out, we slice them with the plasma cutter as close to the frame as possible. Once we cut them off them at the frame the plasma cutter can then reach the bolt with ease.... to me it's time vs money.

E

Primoz

Hi Ernie!
Can you please explain a little bit a function and wiring on the transistor ignition system on 71 cars?
I was looking at my fuse box and I have this harness pluged into it:
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...xtension-68-72

0Willcox Corvette

http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/c...elp-1969-1971/

nix1981

Ok Ernie... I have a clicking noise (69 coupe/auto/sb) from what seems to be the right rear wheel (probably the left too but cant hear that well lol). I've checked over and over and nothing seems loose or is rubbing...about the only thing I can think of is the parking brake. I've got new trailing arms and don't recall doing anything with the parking brake. The lever works and cables are new but does not seem to engage. Rotors are not riveted so that can come off If needed. Can you advise on what I should be looking for or steps on setting the parking brake?

Thanks, hope all is well!

Nick

0Willcox Corvette

Funny... I got this new whiz bang windows 10 computer and cant for the life of me figure out how to get pictures off it.

We tore down a 69 last week and when we did we cracked up laughing because Bubba left his trial again...

Anyway, your clicking noise is more then likely one of the studs hitting the parking brake hardware. If there is a goof in how the springs are installed typically they will click on the back side of the stud. This doesn't mean you installed something wrong either... it could be as simple as the spring slipped off or one of the shoe retainers slipped of. The issue is that even with the spindle un-riveted, it's still a RPITAl to work on... With the spindle out it's not hard at all, but with it in you have to work from behind the spindle which is hard.

The picture we took of he hardware install on this 69 was comical though.... they had the springs in the wrong position and they had them in the wrong holes... So if I can ever figure out how to find the pictures on this "Bubba" laptop I'll see if I can post that picture.

nix1981

Great... I was hoping it would be something simple. The TA's are new and were already assembled. Ugh.

0Willcox Corvette

I'd put the car on a lift, remove the wheels are rotate the spindle (without the rotor), then just listen, You might have a u-joint issue too... but if you remove the 1/2 shafts from the trailing arm and if you still have the noise you've taken the 1/2 shaft out of the equation. . If it goes away then look at the joints.

e

nix1981

Ernie,

Can you recommend a good water pump (one you'd use on your car) for 350/300 69 car. There seems to be many out there and I want something that looks as close to original as possible. Mines not leaking but I'd like to have one standing by - I'm replacing the fan clutch and I see a wee bit of wiggle from the pump. The vendor pumps all seem to have the top port which the one on my car does not have. It has GM, the die number, and part number 3782608 - but no date stamp. Like many things, the more I read, the more confused I get on what's correct/best for my car. Thanks Ernie!

0Willcox Corvette

Nick... it's a small block so basically I'd suggest you go to your FLAPS (friendly local automotive parts store) and just buy one.. The caveat is that I'd make sure you guy one with a GM casting on it... While I'd love to sell a pump to you, you can in most cases buy one locally with no shipping, no core and get rolling.. On BB engines it's a different story, the aftermarket pumps that are not GM castings can cause issues because they are not made properly. But A-1 which supplies most local parts houses should have a GM casting 3782608 that you can buy. If not post back.... I have them on the shelf in OE castings... but personally you can probably find one locally without paying shipping or a core charge.

Ernie.... ( I'll catch you on something else )

norlem

I recently replaced the dash pad in my corvette and when I got the =
> instrument panel back in and wired, the fuel gauge pegs to past full as =
> soon as I turn the key to on. I have a wiring diagram and I am sure I =
> have the correct two wires tied to the guage. I noticed a piece of =
> rubber or something between the two terminals and below the nuts behind =
> the gauge and wondered if I might have damaged that when I reinstalled =
> the wires and nuts or If I may have somehow put a screw through the =
> brown wire going to the gas tank when reinstalling the left kick panel. =
> I do not have a diagram for the gauge so do not know what may be causing =
> this.
Thanks

0Willcox Corvette

A gauge that pegs full... doesn't matter what year or what car it's in... is missing ohms input to the gauge.

This could be a wire broken from the sender to the dash or a bad sending unit... or as bad as I hate to say it.

(This is very very common) When you install the gauges in the c1 cars, the studs must be held while you tighten the nuts up.

They (the gauges) are double nutted, one nut locks the stud to the gauge and the other locks the wire between the two nuts. But (there's always a but) the issue is that inside the gauge is a coil, there is a tiny wire that runs from the stud to the coil and if you don't hold the stud when you tighten them up and if you twist the stud the wire will break! It's only held in place by a hard board and can twist loose if you don't hold the stud. When you do this you break the wire running to the coil. So... first I'd test for ohms at the dash unit... if you have the dash you've probably twisted the stud wire loose. If you don't have ohms at the dash proceed.

Pull the wire from the sending unit (on your car, that's a royal PITA) and test the sender and check it for ohms output.

I've got a basic schematic on this but we are currently having an issue with the tech site so I can't post it right now.

Okay... tech site is back up but I don't have this posted on there.... didn't realize that but I'll get it up soon.

The actual gauge itself is grounded through the gauge pod when it's bolted into the dash housing. The pink wire to the gauge runs from the ignition switch and the ohms wire is the brown wire. The ohms on a 53-62 car was different than that of the new cars, the reading should be 0 when empty and 45 ohms when full. So 1/2 a tank would be about 22.5 ohms.

Ernie

DavidandJoansVette

Ernie: The White Rabbit is a 77 L-48 with Buckskin interior. The sunvisors are single attached on the door side. Both pivot and the passenger side has a vanity mirror. Both need replacing. My question is do I have 77 sunvisors? No replacements I have seen come with a vanity mirror.

0Willcox Corvette

To my knowledge the lighted vanity mirror didn't start until mid production 1979 and ran through 1982. However since the housings were the same it was quite common for people to order and up these mirrors on any car from 1968-1982. All you needed was a power wire.

Now... 77 - 79 early cars had what was called a vanity mirror but it wasn't a lighted variety, it was just a flat mirror that glued to the visor and again... I'm not positive, but I believe they were are black in color. I still have one here from my old car but I'd have to check the color of the mirror, I know my old car had red interior... I'd just have to check the color of the glue on mirror.

This is illustrated on 107 of the assembly manual in 1977, or better yet UPC B01-12 SHEET 40.

Ernie