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Old 03-13-2019, 01:50 PM
  #721  
norlem
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I did not hold the studs when I tightened the nuts and I did notice one of the studs turning. If I have broken the tiny wire, can this be repaired easily? Do I need to remove the instrument cluster to remove the gauge or can I remove the gauge from under the dash?

Thanks
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Old 03-13-2019, 03:09 PM
  #722  
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Default 1981 alarm relay removal

my alarm doesnt work (go off) . im wondering if i should remove and replace the relay that is under the center console. the shop manual says remove the screw that is holding it. sound easy..but there are two 7mm screws holding in to an angled metal bracket. how the heck do i get the bottom screw off, if i cant get a tool in the lower space to do so, due to the angle of the metal bracket it is attached to?

Last edited by amproducts; 03-13-2019 at 03:19 PM.
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Old 03-13-2019, 03:51 PM
  #723  
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Default C2 Wiring Harness

Best Quality and price to buy wiring Harness for a c2 Corvette? Does Willcox have special on their wiring harness?
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Old 03-13-2019, 05:30 PM
  #724  
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Ernie
I have been trying to troubleshoot the antenna/cable for the original am/fm radio in my 1969 Coupe.
The fm side will produce a few fm stations. The am side is just static, but I did get one am station for a while after I cleaned up the ground on the frame.
Does this suggest to you that my cable or the capacitor therein is bad. ?? I understand I should not test the cable with an ohm meter as it might fry the capacitor. Don't know how to check otherwise.

Also, I believe routing of cable is down drivers side sill then OVER the steering wheel to console. Sounds kinda crazy but would like to confirm.
If you think its a bad cable/capacitor I will buy one from you.
I really want to run this possible issue down before I take out the radio and send it somewhere. (Speakers work and they are original.). All of your ideas will be appreciated.
Thanks
VERYSOON
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Old 03-13-2019, 10:59 PM
  #725  
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Originally Posted by norlem View Post
I did not hold the studs when I tightened the nuts and I did notice one of the studs turning. If I have broken the tiny wire, can this be repaired easily? Do I need to remove the instrument cluster to remove the gauge or can I remove the gauge from under the dash?

Thanks
Well sadly if you didn't hold the studs you probably broke the wire. I have a spool of original wire here but you can probably take the pod apart and just solder it.

If you solder it you'll change the resistance but probably only slightly and you can use a variable potentiometer as an input to calibrate the gauge based on the scale I mentioned above. Simply put.. fix the wire then use the pot to to dial the gauge in.... The issue is even just soldering the wire back together will change the resistance and the coils are adjustable... I'm just being honest, I hate messing with them... I hate it.... hate it... hate it... did say I hated it... and I'm the only being honest. And... i've retired from doing C1 gauges.
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Old 03-13-2019, 11:04 PM
  #726  
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Originally Posted by 66vette2 View Post
Best Quality and price to buy wiring Harness for a c2 Corvette? Does Willcox have special on their wiring harness?
This is an odd question?

This thread isn't and wasn't designed to or created to offer questions about orders or any sale! If you have a sale question post it in our sale thread that is running not here... I'm not trying to be a butt.... (**** lol) it's not the purpose of this thread. Any details about any sale or what ever... the are listed on the front page of our website.....

So my advice is to add the stuff you need to the cart... then apply what ever code that fits (that is posted on the front page of our site). ... we always post any and all sales on the front page of the site and they all list all the contingencies

So go to the front page and take a look. It'll tell you what is eligible and what is not... And right now i think wire harness's are included based on the total order price.

As stated in the VERY first post of this thread... I'll not answer questions about orders, it is not the purpose of this thread.. and I'll just copy and paste this the next time...

Again I'm not trying to be a turd, but this is not the purpose of this thread. The purpose of this thread is to help others...

Ernie

Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 03-13-2019 at 11:22 PM.
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Old 03-14-2019, 09:53 AM
  #727  
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Ernie,
I wanted to thank you for the time you spend answering our questions. Your knowledge with these old cars is amazing. I also wanted you to know i just placed and order for the parts i needed for my auto to manual conversion because of YOU. In this day and age to see someone who cares to help others and has a passion for them is refreshing. Because of you i did not shop anywhere else. THANK YOU! I'll Be in touch again i'm sure.
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Old 03-14-2019, 06:32 PM
  #728  
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Originally Posted by johns73 View Post
Ernie,
I wanted to thank you for the time you spend answering our questions. Your knowledge with these old cars is amazing. I also wanted you to know i just placed and order for the parts i needed for my auto to manual conversion because of YOU. In this day and age to see someone who cares to help others and has a passion for them is refreshing. Because of you i did not shop anywhere else. THANK YOU! I'll Be in touch again i'm sure.
Thank you... my knowledge is just from being an old dried up fart probably with nothing better to do.... lol... I really do have fun sharing the things we find.... and I really get a jolt out of helping others..

I very much appreciate the kind words they go a long way for me.... Take care and have a great day.

Ernie
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Old 03-14-2019, 10:01 PM
  #729  
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Ernie
I can’t agree more, than the eloquent words from Johns73. My only complaint is that your shop/company is located in Indiana. I would be honored for you to install a new top on my 73, but in reality, my car would have a difficult time making the drive from Georgia to Indiana. Keep up the great work, I know that everyone on the Forum appreciates all the help you provide to make our hobby fun, and rewarding.
Stay well,
Eli
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Old 03-16-2019, 02:33 PM
  #730  
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Originally Posted by Eliredandblack View Post
Ernie
I canít agree more, than the eloquent words from Johns73. My only complaint is that your shop/company is located in Indiana. I would be honored for you to install a new top on my 73, but in reality, my car would have a difficult time making the drive from Georgia to Indiana. Keep up the great work, I know that everyone on the Forum appreciates all the help you provide to make our hobby fun, and rewarding.
Stay well,
Eli
Awesome...

Sadly I've got two more tops to install this spring.... then I'm calling it quits on tops.

I still like doing the seat covers but the tops are a bit hard on me.

Everyone on this forum makes it a great tool for knowledge and I'll keep posting stuff on the tech site as I see it happen and hopefully it'll be there for a long time.

It's always been a pleasure and a passion for me and while we may not be the fastest company in the game, Tommy and the other guys here do bust their ***** for me... It's been a fun ride for sure.

I drove my old 62 to Cincinnati this past fall... and it was like driving an episode or route 66... This is the first time I've driven the car over 100 miles since 1980.... but when I strapped in the driver seat I turned 16 all over again.

Ernie
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Old 03-18-2019, 11:14 AM
  #731  
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Ernie
I hope you had a relaxing weekend and didn’t have to deal with all the rain/flooding that the folks in the Midwest are experiencing. I know a new soft top is in the cards for my 73. I like the fabric that is on my BMW Z4, I think it’s Haartz Stayfast Cloth. Do you like a certain manufacturer for C3 soft tops? When I put up the soft top on my car, the front pins want to go about three inches toward the passenger side. One of the Vette repair guys told me that the frame needs to be bent/straightened so that it lines up with the holes on the top of the windshield frame. Every time I ask about a top installation
company, the Vette owner gives me a name ... then says... Oh Wait ... he retired!
Take Care
Eli
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Old 03-18-2019, 05:39 PM
  #732  
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Originally Posted by Eliredandblack View Post
Ernie
I hope you had a relaxing weekend and didn’t have to deal with all the rain/flooding that the folks in the Midwest are experiencing. I know a new soft top is in the cards for my 73. I like the fabric that is on my BMW Z4, I think it’s Haartz Stayfast Cloth. Do you like a certain manufacturer for C3 soft tops? When I put up the soft top on my car, the front pins want to go about three inches toward the passenger side. One of the Vette repair guys told me that the frame needs to be bent/straightened so that it lines up with the holes on the top of the windshield frame. Every time I ask about a top installation
company, the Vette owner gives me a name ... then says... Oh Wait ... he retired!
Take Care
Eli
I've always believed that anyone can install a softtop... The only tops I will install have to be AK tops, it's the only brand I'll fool with. I did a test installation for CA on the tops by Key, and personally I just didn't like it. I actually put this top on my 70 and now I'll probably pull it off at a later date...

It's funny because I've been working on a write up for the tech site about tips and installing tops....

I've always told customers to ask their installer about how they start the installation because an original top will usually have a mark on center and so will the soft top. You don't start on center, you start by taking a measurement from the end of the rear bow to the vertical bow and then transfer this to the top. Once you do this then you start the installation doing the left and then the right and work toward the center. If you do it this way the rest will fall in place. (I know, no pictures sucks)... Doing the installation this way assures you have enough material to wrap around the vertical bow. If the installer say's he starts in the middle... run.

Anyway...

Tops... if you are putting a top on a car that has a hardtop.. Install the hardtop on the car and then adjust the door glass to fit the hardtop. After you do this you then put new weatherstrips on the soft top and make the soft top frame fit the door glass. If you have a soft top only car then you still need to adjust the frame with the new weatherstrips installed. Once this is done then you can begin the installation process.

One key is having the right tools... We don't use a swing-line while they might work (and I've never tried it with one), we have a pneumatic stapler (Fasco) we use. We also use Weld Wood glue to glue the top around the vertical bow.

The main key to installing the top is fitting the top frame first, then install the top!

You could also have issues with the rivets and bushings in the soft top frame itself. People tend to abuse the frames over the years and sometimes they'll force them when they are binding so it's also possible to have a bent Z bracket where the rear bow is attached. All these issues would need to be addressed before you do anything as far as installing the top.

Without going further, there are a ton of tricks to installation of a top.... but none of them are so hard that a average Joe can't do it.

Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 03-19-2019 at 09:02 AM.
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Old 03-18-2019, 06:39 PM
  #733  
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Originally Posted by VERYSOON View Post
Ernie
I have been trying to troubleshoot the antenna/cable for the original am/fm radio in my 1969 Coupe.
The fm side will produce a few fm stations. The am side is just static, but I did get one am station for a while after I cleaned up the ground on the frame.
Does this suggest to you that my cable or the capacitor therein is bad. ?? I understand I should not test the cable with an ohm meter as it might fry the capacitor. Don't know how to check otherwise.

Also, I believe routing of cable is down drivers side sill then OVER the steering wheel to console. Sounds kinda crazy but would like to confirm.
If you think its a bad cable/capacitor I will buy one from you.
I really want to run this possible issue down before I take out the radio and send it somewhere. (Speakers work and they are original.). All of your ideas will be appreciated.
Thanks
VERYSOON
Ernie
Was wondering if you could take a stab at the above issue, please. Figured it might have gotten lost.
Thanks so much
VS
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Old 03-18-2019, 09:13 PM
  #734  
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Originally Posted by VERYSOON View Post
Ernie
Was wondering if you could take a stab at the above issue, please. Figured it might have gotten lost.
Thanks so much
VS
Your right... I did miss this post

Take the cable loose from the radio and with a long set of jumpers test the continuity of the cable as well as check to make sure it's not grounded out on the inside. If the cable pass's this test then it's okay. Also make sure the antenna is grounded properly. If this is all good then I'd take a hard look at the radio.

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Old 03-20-2019, 06:13 PM
  #735  
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Ernie

The window crank levers on my 73 are extremely loose. I read some old forum posts, and they are referencing the handle shaft (with the spines on one end) being worn. I believe that my shaft is ok and doesn’t wobble. The problem seems to the crank levers are not fitting tight on the splines. Would the splines on the handle shaft be worn (after 45 years), and not making a good connection to the window crank? I did purchase new window cranks and clips, it didn’t make any difference.
Thanks for your help.
Eli
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Old 03-21-2019, 09:08 AM
  #736  
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There isn't a lot of stuff on the manual windows to wear out.. you only have the shaft, shaft bushing and the actual receiver in the regulator. If the bushing in the housing is shot then you can replace it, the shafts rarely wear out but one of the culprits is the actual receiver section made to the regulator. You can buy the shafts, the spring and the brass bushing in the end and that's about it... (11-12 and the orange brass bushing shown below).

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Old 03-21-2019, 09:38 AM
  #737  
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Ernie
The diagram you provided really helps me understand the various components. I always try to find out what parts are needed before I start a repair. Even with all the photos taken, I have a fear of a reassembly nightmare, I think it’s called old age.
Thank you for all your help.
Eli
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Old 03-24-2019, 06:24 AM
  #738  
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Hi Ernie,

park brake question.
Is the cable marked on the picture with arrow available to buy or is it just generic cable?

Image courtesy of Alan71
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Old 03-24-2019, 09:01 AM
  #739  
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Originally Posted by Eliredandblack View Post
Ernie
The diagram you provided really helps me understand the various components. I always try to find out what parts are needed before I start a repair. Even with all the photos taken, I have a fear of a reassembly nightmare, I think itís called old age.
Thank you for all your help.
Eli
You need to check the play in number 5.... and then see how tight the shaft is in the bushing. If there is a ton of play in number 5 then putting a new bushing in will only be a band-aide. But it'll tighten it up some and it's easy to replace a second time if it happens. Just know that the play in the regulator will wear out the bushing in the housing.

Ernie
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Old 03-24-2019, 09:02 AM
  #740  
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The cable pictured is the seat belt retaining cable. If you don't have one it's really not a huge deal but it has nothing to do with the parking brake.

Is it available... I'd have to check later today to see.

Ernie
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