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The cable pictured is the seat belt retaining cable. If you don't have one it's really not a huge deal but it has nothing to do with the parking brake.
Is it available... I'd have to check later today to see.
Ernie
Ah that is why I didn't find that cable! I looked under hand brake!
OK, we rebuilt the rear suspension & trailing arms and are putting it all back together with the stock, original 9 leaf spring and 8" bolts. We left the 4 bolts in the spring mounting plate loose (per advice we read in a thread) until we got it back on the ground with the weight on. But now, the 2 front bolts are bottoming out in the carrier before the mounting plate gets tight. We lifted it back up, cleaned out the threads in the holes in the carrier, cleaned up the bolts, re-installed the spring. It will tighten up nice & snug while hanging in the air. But worried about cracking the case, we loosened the bolts, let it back down, and are faced with the same problem again. The bolts are tight & bottoming out, but the plate is loose, and the lock washers spin around. WHAT are we doing wrong?
Hi ,I have viewed your several Youtube videos on troubleshooting wiper door operation. I confirmed that when I pull override under dash I do indeed see vacuum be blocked on small vacuum hose with white stripe wiper relay down in the passenger inner fender. I also confirmed that if I put my mighty vac on the vacuum hose with green stripe going to the actuator connection closest to the firewall the wiper door can be opened and if I move to the red stripped vacuum line on the actuator I can close the wiper door. I also confirmed that when wiper relay is blocked, no vacuum present on small hose with white stripe, that vacuum is connected from center Yellow vacuum, source from engine, to Green vacuum, lowest connection on wiper relay. The door didn't open with vacuum being supplied to green vacuum hose going to actuator. I then pulled yellow striped vacuum line from middle connector on wiper relay and I thought I would have detected strong vacuum as well as it would have made the engine run rougher. Neither were encountered. My headlight actuators work find so I don't know understand why wiper arm actuator won't open but headlights function. I also replaced wiper relay and no improvement. I also confirmed when I opened the wiper door with my might vac the wipers functioned perfectly so my issue is on getting actuator, which also new, to operate with proper engine vacuum. Vacuum is being sourced from connector on the back of the intake manifold. I assume if headlight actuators are working that check valve and filter are operational. I was able to blow through the filter. I hope I was able to describe clearly the issue and the steps I did to troubleshoot. The control side of vacuum seems to be working but not actuator side of wiper door. Regards,Joe E
I am a bit rusty on using the forum so I am trying to re-post the text below. Hoping that someone has run into my issue and can offer a fix.Hi ,I have viewed your several Youtube videos on troubleshooting wiper door operation. I confirmed that when I pull override under dash I do indeed see vacuum be blocked on small vacuum hose with white stripe wiper relay down in the passenger inner fender. I also confirmed that if I put my mighty vac on the vacuum hose with green stripe going to the actuator connection closest to the firewall the wiper door can be opened and if I move to the red stripped vacuum line on the actuator I can close the wiper door. I also confirmed that when wiper relay is blocked, no vacuum present on small hose with white stripe, that vacuum is connected from center Yellow vacuum, source from engine, to Green vacuum, lowest connection on wiper relay. The door didn't open with vacuum being supplied to green vacuum hose going to actuator. I then pulled yellow striped vacuum line from middle connector on wiper relay and I thought I would have detected strong vacuum as well as it would have made the engine run rougher. Neither were encountered. My headlight actuators work find so I don't know understand why wiper arm actuator won't open but headlights function. I also replaced wiper relay and no improvement. I also confirmed when I opened the wiper door with my might vac the wipers functioned perfectly so my issue is on getting actuator, which also new, to operate with proper engine vacuum. Vacuum is being sourced from connector on the back of the intake manifold. I assume if headlight actuators are working that check valve and filter are operational. I was able to blow through the filter. I hope I was able to describe clearly the issue and the steps I did to troubleshoot. The control side of vacuum seems to be working but not actuator side of wiper door. Regards,Joe
I am a bit rusty on using the forum so I am trying to re-post the text below. Hoping that someone has run into my issue and can offer a fix.Hi ,I have viewed your several Youtube videos on troubleshooting wiper door operation. I confirmed that when I pull override under dash I do indeed see vacuum be blocked on small vacuum hose with white stripe wiper relay down in the passenger inner fender. I also confirmed that if I put my mighty vac on the vacuum hose with green stripe going to the actuator connection closest to the firewall the wiper door can be opened and if I move to the red stripped vacuum line on the actuator I can close the wiper door. I also confirmed that when wiper relay is blocked, no vacuum present on small hose with white stripe, that vacuum is connected from center Yellow vacuum, source from engine, to Green vacuum, lowest connection on wiper relay. The door didn't open with vacuum being supplied to green vacuum hose going to actuator. I then pulled yellow striped vacuum line from middle connector on wiper relay and I thought I would have detected strong vacuum as well as it would have made the engine run rougher. Neither were encountered. My headlight actuators work find so I don't know understand why wiper arm actuator won't open but headlights function. I also replaced wiper relay and no improvement. I also confirmed when I opened the wiper door with my might vac the wipers functioned perfectly so my issue is on getting actuator, which also new, to operate with proper engine vacuum. Vacuum is being sourced from connector on the back of the intake manifold. I assume if headlight actuators are working that check valve and filter are operational. I was able to blow through the filter. I hope I was able to describe clearly the issue and the steps I did to troubleshoot. The control side of vacuum seems to be working but not actuator side of wiper door. Regards,Joe
I'm old.. and tired. I'll take a look at this tomorrow for you.. but what year is the car????
E
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 03-27-2019 at 02:50 PM.
Okay... So you are saying when you pull the over-ride switch down the vacuum is being blocked and the door won't open?
If this is the case then make sure of two things. Number one is that you don't have the imported wiper arm relay, they don't work.
Next I'd test the wiper arm relay using my video on posted here and on YouTube to make sure it's working correctly.
Then if the wiper arm relay is working properly I'd go the the relay and test it to make sure it's switching vacuum in the correct manner. (picture below). This is not a complicated system the thing that complicates it is junk imported parts that we all have to deal with. (except for the arm valve which I have made here in the states).
I think you have a defect in the system in either the relay or the wiper arm relay.... It takes vacuum to keep the door closed on the small hose side, so what happens when you pull the small hose off the (black with white stripe) actuator relay, do this and block the vacuum line with a screw quickly? The door should open.... and if it does then the issue is probably the arm relay. If it fails then the issue is the actuator relay or the actuator itself. The two relay's are almost like wall switches in your house, they have two functions and that being either to pass vacuum or the block or switch it. Both are easy to test but when you test the arm switch it's imperative to make sure you test it on the middle (red stripe) nipple. The imported switches if tested from the bottom port can block vacuum but also leak vacuum while the arms are in motion if they work at all. If you purchased a new one and it has a rubber boot on it... send it back. We make the US version but we didn't make the boot so ours (you get one from any major vendor) won't have the rubber boot on it.
I don't believe you have any issue with the check valve or filter mainly because you said the headlamps work fine. If you are blocking vacuum with the over-ride and the door isn't opening that only leaves the two relays and/or the actuator. Post back.
OK, we rebuilt the rear suspension & trailing arms and are putting it all back together with the stock, original 9 leaf spring and 8" bolts. We left the 4 bolts in the spring mounting plate loose (per advice we read in a thread) until we got it back on the ground with the weight on. But now, the 2 front bolts are bottoming out in the carrier before the mounting plate gets tight. We lifted it back up, cleaned out the threads in the holes in the carrier, cleaned up the bolts, re-installed the spring. It will tighten up nice & snug while hanging in the air. But worried about cracking the case, we loosened the bolts, let it back down, and are faced with the same problem again. The bolts are tight & bottoming out, but the plate is loose, and the lock washers spin around. WHAT are we doing wrong?
We'll don't crank them down, they will break the cover and then you'll have another mess.
Pull one out when you get a chance and post me the length. The original bolt, p/n 3833486 was originally 9/16 x 12 by 3 1/8" long. it was replaced by 9428598 in march of 1988 which was actually a shock mounting bolt on a GM motor home if you can believe that. But I don't have the length listed in my system on that bolt... The other thing is are you sure it's an original spring, original Eaton springs had a flipped lip on the end of each leaf and they are very distinguishable from the aftermarket springs which are flat on the end.
It seems odd that you pulled (and I'm assuming you used the original bolts you had) out and now they are bottoming out. Did the the dog bone plate get bent?
Both my 70 and my 72 have original springs in them so if need be I suppose I could have someone int the shop pull a bolt for you and measure it but I'm going to say that they are probably the length I specified above for the 3833486 bolt. I have this bolt in our system under the original GM number then I loaded the 1971 parts book to validate the measurements.
I've replaced all the sensors for the gauge, fan, and level but still reads low, but the fan does work, is there a fuse or and suggestions ?
Are you saying the temperature gauge never reads higher than "Low"?
Take the sender wire loose, you'll find it between the 6 and 8 spark plugs and then ground it out to the block or something that yo know is a good ground. Then without starting the car, just turn the key to the on position and check the reading of the gauge.
I believe it should go to 330 degrees in this condition and if it does then I'd check the connector to the sender and make sure the end of the sender is clean as well as the end of the connector. If this isn't the case I'd highly suspect the issue is the sending unit which is an issue the c1-C3 peeps face all the time.
We'll don't crank them down, they will break the cover and then you'll have another mess.
Pull one out when you get a chance and post me the length. The original bolt, p/n 3833486 was originally 9/16 x 12 by 3 1/8" long. it was replaced by 9428598 in march of 1988 which was actually a shock mounting bolt on a GM motor home if you can believe that. But I don't have the length listed in my system on that bolt... The other thing is are you sure it's an original spring, original Eaton springs had a flipped lip on the end of each leaf and they are very distinguishable from the aftermarket springs which are flat on the end.
It seems odd that you pulled (and I'm assuming you used the original bolts you had) out and now they are bottoming out. Did the the dog bone plate get bent?
Both my 70 and my 72 have original springs in them so if need be I suppose I could have someone int the shop pull a bolt for you and measure it but I'm going to say that they are probably the length I specified above for the 3833486 bolt. I have this bolt in our system under the original GM number then I loaded the 1971 parts book to validate the measurements.
Ernie
OK, I got it. After reading your reply, I took it all apart again & did some checking. When I ordered the rear suspension rebuild kit, it came with new spring mounting bolts, and those are what I used. They are 3 3/8" long. So I cut a quarter inch off each one, and everything fits perfectly. Thank you SO much for your help!
OK, I got it. After reading your reply, I took it all apart again & did some checking. When I ordered the rear suspension rebuild kit, it came with new spring mounting bolts, and those are what I used. They are 3 3/8" long. So I cut a quarter inch off each one, and everything fits perfectly. Thank you SO much for your help!
Good to hear.... Typical wrong stuff in a kit issue... and I'm glad you didn't torque them down... you'd be buying a new rear cover. Now... make sure to put the bolts in place snug... then lower the car and toque them under pressure. If you torque them in the air you still run the risk of breaking the cover.... always do the torque while the car is under load.
Now go bump my sale threads...
Ernie
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 03-30-2019 at 07:34 PM.
I replaced the wiper door actuator relay and the door opens and closes properly when engine is running. When the engine stops the wiper door opens a bit. I believe I have seen this issue traced back to the wiper arm relay actuator. I bought one a couple of years back from Keen Corvette parts and it didn't pass your vacuum diagnostic tests. It does have a rubber boot. When I buy your US version should I put the boot from failed new wiper arm relay actuator onto yours? What is the part number for the wiper arm relay actuator? I really appreciate your effort in sharing such a wealth of knowledge. Truly appreciated.
Hi Wilcox! I lost my gauges and tach due to blown fuse. Swapped out the fuse and now the tach is at 1000rpms when turned off, and when the key is turned on it floats slowly up to 1500 rpms. I understand from looking at the Wilcox page on tachs that when you turn the key on it should go to zero until started. I also checked the tach filter and it doesn't have one, looks like it was bypassed by the previous owner. Question: is the the circuit board burned out? Or do you think I need to add the filter back? Thanks!
I replaced the wiper door actuator relay and the door opens and closes properly when engine is running. When the engine stops the wiper door opens a bit. I believe I have seen this issue traced back to the wiper arm relay actuator. I bought one a couple of years back from Keen Corvette parts and it didn't pass your vacuum diagnostic tests. It does have a rubber boot. When I buy your US version should I put the boot from failed new wiper arm relay actuator onto yours? What is the part number for the wiper arm relay actuator? I really appreciate your effort in sharing such a wealth of knowledge. Truly appreciated.
Br
Joe
More than likely the door relay is defective and causing this issue. You can find the US made reproduction that works at this link (and yes you're boot will work just fine on it). https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...t-really-works
Hi Wilcox! I lost my gauges and tach due to blown fuse. Swapped out the fuse and now the tach is at 1000rpms when turned off, and when the key is turned on it floats slowly up to 1500 rpms. I understand from looking at the Wilcox page on tachs that when you turn the key on it should go to zero until started. I also checked the tach filter and it doesn't have one, looks like it was bypassed by the previous owner. Question: is the the circuit board burned out? Or do you think I need to add the filter back? Thanks!
More than likely the issue is the board. When you turn the key to the on position the tach should get power and ground only and go to zero. (same as doing the zero set). So my guess would be the tach board is the issue. The filter does two things, one it keeps the board from getting spiked and secondly it knocks the square off the signal. What is funny is that the original boards and our reproduction boards will read either square of wave signals.
I'm having issues adjusting my left door glass. I just installed door weatherstripping. My window won't go all the way up. The ends of the ws are stopping the glass from going up all the way. The up stops have been adjusted. When the stops are loose, the ws prevents it from going any higher. I run the car also to make sure I'm getting good voltage during the window adjustment operation.
I have an '81 with power windows. The ws are CRC.
Is this something you have run into? If so what did you do to correct it.
More than likely the door relay is defective and causing this issue. You can find the US made reproduction that works at this link (and yes you're boot will work just fine on it). https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...t-really-works
I have the wiper arm relay ( the one that works), filter and check valve on order from you guys. All the components I am replacing appear to be original and 50 years of service warrants replacement. I am sure the headlights will also warrant repair at some point in the future. I really appreciate your assistance in debugging my wiper door vacuum issue.
03-24-2019, 06:23 PM
71 rear spring problems
