mikem350

'71 wipers won't park all the way down!

Rebuilt the whole system, safety switches, new motor, lubed everything. It all works now but wipers will not pull down to the the park stop, preventing the wiper door from closing. Took out the vacuum safety switch to see if was interfering, no help.

Tried adjusting everything as shown by Willcox, even the motor crank nut (no help). Did the bell crank nuts also.
My blades do not have the screw A shown in AIM, and the drivers side is not correct, but is not interfering.

Any other adjustments I missed?

0Willcox Corvette

I'm going out on a limb here but my guess is you have the later model replacement wiper arms on the car. If you don't have the "Screw A" then that is the clue. We have a 71 in the shop right now with the same issue, the wiper door keeps sitting on the arms and won't close all the way but it has wiper arms on it from a later car and while the vacuum actuator can pull it really doesn't have enough pull to push the arm out of the way. The other thing is that the blades could be wrong as well. The newer style blades that have too much curve to them will also interfere with the door.

Eliredandblack

Ernie
I trust the pollen isn’t as bad in Indiana, compared to the yellow mess we have in Georgia. On my 73 SB, 4 speed, with AC, every time I start the car, I hear the outside air inlet door close. Is the correct? I rebuilt the door and replaced the seal. My vacuum systems seems to be fine as my headlights open/close quickly. I checked the actuator and it seemed ok. My concern is that the door opens a couple of minutes after shutting off the engine. The trouble is that I wash my car on a hill, and wonder if water could enter the cockpit through the open fresh air door (via mesh below the wiper arms). As always, I appreciate your help.
Thanks
Eli

mikem350

Thank you sir. Have tried all the above and find the pass arm is original, with the screw, but it was adjusted for max already. Its that both arms need to sit about 1 inch further down, but mainly the pass arm is the problem, as it closes after the driver's side.

My last resort will be to see if I can get a little more adjustment at the bell crank, elongating the holes.

0Willcox Corvette

I'd adjust the blades as specified above. And I'd also take a look at the actual blades... aftermarket blades can cause issues due to the radius of the blade.

Willcox

Peterbuilt

Hi Ernie,
Thanks for all your help over the years.
I would like to install your C-2 1966/7 chrome door handles on my '74.
Besides switching the left and right sides any hints to installing them that you can offer?
Do they need to be modified or change the screw length?
Part # 1065 &1066

Thanks, Pete.

0Willcox Corvette

Pete,

It' has been my pleasure and thank you for the kind words...

On your handles, it's pretty much cut and dried, the handles install the same as the plastic handles and will work fine. (and last forever) and you can use the old screws. (I'm having an issue with the site on USPS right now and it's random, so if the site doesn't offer you USPS or a cheap rate, email me direct and I'll get you fixed up, my guys are working on this to find the issue and what is nuts is it's randomd) Service@Willcoxcorvette.com

Since they don't flex it's a bit harder to get the screws started but using an awe as a guide and a firm hand you'll get them in no problem.

Doing this used to be a fad in the old days, but you don't see it that often now.

The other thing is that if you crimp and/or crinkle the door panel where the handle goes in, you can heat it (the panel vinyl) with a blow drier and it''ll manipulate pretty easy but I doubt you'll have this issue.

Ernie

Street Rat

Got any ideas?

nix1981

Hi Ernie!

I'm replacing my speedo and tach cables in my 69 (both upper and lower) and need to lube them up. Can you explain the best way or procedure on how to do this? I'm planning on just using some graphite cable lubricant from NAPA.

Thanks,

Nick

caskiguy

https://itstillruns.com/properly-lub...e-6936047.html

Eliredandblack

Ernie
Here is my original question.
Thanks
Eli

tankertoad89

I posted this question over at C3 Tech/Performance a day or so ago but haven't received any aid on the issue, and it's now buried under so many other posts that it'll never see the light of day again unless I bump it back to the top. I have decided that maybe it's too insignificant a problem for that sub forum to get involved with, so I'll see if anyone here can offer any guidance.

Maybe Willcox can steer me toward a resolution.

Here's what I posted: "A question for anyone who might have insight into this problem. I had the original fuel gauge replaced in my 1973. As part of the restoration, also replaced were the gas tank and the sending unit. When the new gauge was put in, the mechanic removed the resistor band from the old gauge and reinstalled it on the new gauge. That caused the gauge to read off-scale high (as advertised), so I asked him to remove the resistor band, which he did. The gauge needle now remains within the gauge scale (from "E" to" F"), but never reads completely full, and though the needle decreases toward "E" as I drive, the needle doesn't present any resemblance to reality as the tank fuel level falls.

Is an electrical grounding issue the most likely cause of the inaccuracy at this point?

Thanks for any insight."

Thanks again.

caskiguy

http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/?...auge+resistor+

tankertoad89

Thanks for the links.

mirage2991

Does Willcox make their own Dashes or do they have a company make them for you? (talking upper dash and the two lower pieces attached to it)... looking at options to solve my current problem of poor fitment.

caskiguy

What do you mean by poor fitment ? Pictures ?

mirage2991

... I should specify they are not Willcox parts, but I asked my question to know my options out there...just in case

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...h-fitment.html

caskiguy

http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/1...-instructions/

mirage2991

door glass instructions?

caskiguy

LOL ! I thought I deleted this. Sorry.