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added comments in red....thanks for taking the time to respond, looks like I did everything by the book but the parts won't comply...all going back now, just waiting on the shipping lables from CA and we'll try this again with a different set all together!
What about doing a test fit of the pads out of the car? Have you tried that to see if the passenger side pad will go up and under the upper pad?
I know the window adjustment procedure and it just doesn't seem to work effectively. I've adjusted until I'm blue in the face. I can't get the last 1/8" of travel that I need to hit the t-top weatherstrip and front top corner of glass. My up stops are totally loose. If I open the door I can get the last bit of upward travel that I need.
I recently purchased and installed a new weatherstrip retainer. It isn't made quite the same as the old piece. Any experience with those being good or bad to use?
I actually drilled and enlarged some holes in the new ws retainer for more adjustability. I move the ws retainer and have to readjust the window again. It seems to be trial and error but I'm getting tired of dealing with it with no success. It's a vicious cycle.
Thanks for any tips.
Craig
Craig,
I've never had to enlarge holes and I don't know what kit you got
I'm not sure if you are talking about the pillar retainer or the t-top weatherstrip retainer but I've not had any issues logged in our system on either product. The tops are (slightly) adjustable at the pin, but I'm going to assume the glass is wedging against the top edge of the pillar and stopping.... But that would be my next question, which part is causing the glass to not finish the travel needed?
We've ran into this issue in the past and two cheat tricks that we've used is the 1" rule. When the glass is 1" from the pillar it should be aprox. 1" from the t-top weatherstrip.
Then there is the suction cup trick... this we use when we have exasperated all other options.... we take everything loose, put one person outside the car and another on the inside. We then take two suction cups and position the glass in it's proper place, with one guy holding the glass and the other on the inside tightening all the screws back up.
Other issues that can cause a fitment problem is the condition of the rollers on the regulator, slack in the pivot on the regulator, a week power window motor (if you have power windows), a bent track, slop in the bushings where the lower channel is bolted to the door glass... there are so many "other" things that can cause your issue.
Ernie
On my 73 SB, Convertible, 4 speed, with AC, every time I start the car, I hear the outside fresh air door close. Is this normal? I rebuilt the door and replaced the rubber seal. My vacuum system seems to be fine as my headlights open/close quickly, along with the HVAC controls. My concern is that the door opens once the engine is turned off. I wash my car on a hill, and wonder if water could enter the cockpit through the open fresh air door (via the mesh screen below the right wiper arm).
I trust you are feeling better, and on the mend.
Thanks for you help.
Eli
Eli,
It takes vacuum to hold the door closed and when you shut the car off the vacuum is bleeding off as is normal depending on which setting you have the heater control switch in.
The only thing I can say is that I doubt you'll have a water issue but you can use the chart below to test the vacuum switch in the dash to make sure it's working properly. There is a test chart listed below. The vent door on the passenger side is controlled by the orange hose that splits off from the green hose coming from the select switch.
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 04-18-2019 at 09:58 AM.
I've never had to enlarge holes and I don't know what kit you got
I'm not sure if you are talking about the pillar retainer or the t-top weatherstrip retainer but I've not had any issues logged in our system on either product. The tops are (slightly) adjustable at the pin, but I'm going to assume the glass is wedging against the top edge of the pillar and stopping.... But that would be my next question, which part is causing the glass to not finish the travel needed?
We've ran into this issue in the past and two cheat tricks that we've used is the 1" rule. When the glass is 1" from the pillar it should be aprox. 1" from the t-top weatherstrip.
Then there is the suction cup trick... this we use when we have exasperated all other options.... we take everything loose, put one person outside the car and another on the inside. We then take two suction cups and position the glass in it's proper place, with one guy holding the glass and the other on the inside tightening all the screws back up.
Other issues that can cause a fitment problem is the condition of the rollers on the regulator, slack in the pivot on the regulator, a week power window motor (if you have power windows), a bent track, slop in the bushings where the lower channel is bolted to the door glass... there are so many "other" things that can cause your issue.
Ernie
The A pillar ws retainer is the new piece. I drilled and elongated holes for more adjustability. The new ws retainer has to be the problem. I'm going to post photos of the new part and the factory part. I'd like you to comment on the differences in the two parts.
I guess I'll go back to the old ws retainer and play around with it some.
Ernie thank you so much for the detailed answers on the subject.
The A pillar ws retainer is the new piece. I drilled and elongated holes for more adjustability. The new ws retainer has to be the problem. I'm going to post photos of the new part and the factory part. I'd like you to comment on the differences in the two parts.
I guess I'll go back to the old ws retainer and play around with it some.
Ernie thank you so much for the detailed answers on the subject.
Craig
One issue that is common with the pillar retainer is that along the way someone else has replaced the pillar weatherstrip, then the try to pry the retainer loose from the car not knowing there are still screws in there under the rubber. When this happens it will pull and tweak the area around the hole. We have a fixture here we place in a vice and then tap the holes flat again. so that when we replace the pillars we make sure the retainer is completely flat and doesn't rock when installed.
Ernie
The vacuum will bleed off in my car when all HVAC controls are in the off position. I will clamp the black vac line to the HVAC controls and see if the bleed off time is reduced. I know it’s no big deal, just seems odd that the vacuum bleeds off so fast. I have not changed the vac lines to the HVAC controls as they look ok.
Thanks for you help.
Eli
Didn't notice if you said on the video, what adhesive do you use between the chrome under strip and the steel channel on the front of the top when replacing the weatherstrip? Removed steel channel, originally had some black strip of sealing tape.
According to the assembly manual, 1968 listed it as a sealing compound, (strip caulk) for 1972 (and I didn't know what year you have), it is referred to as a sealing strip on the inside, then in 1973-1976 when you look at the same area in the assembly manual it shows strip caulk put in the V before installation.
For security, go get you some 3m strip caulk pn 08578 at your local parts store and kind of smash it down a bit before you install it. You'll end up with plenty of left over but it'll be cheaper than buying the kit from me by the time you figure shipping.
If you need a picture of the 76 AIM email me at service@Willcoxcorvette.com and I'll send you a copy. Or if you tell me the year of the car and have an assembly manual I'll tell you what page it's on if you post back.
Do you how or where I can send my mirror have a driver side sport mirror with remote control disassembled.? or replace the cable without having to purchase a new mirror. The cable has a small piece of metal pressed on both ends the mirror side and the remote site... I’ve already trashed one mirror. Do they make a aftermarket replacement cable? I’m running out of options please help
i want to have them chromed plated but the company needs to have the mirror apart.
According to the assembly manual, 1968 listed it as a sealing compound, (strip caulk) for 1972 (and I didn't know what year you have), it is referred to as a sealing strip on the inside, then in 1973-1976 when you look at the same area in the assembly manual it shows strip caulk put in the V before installation.
For security, go get you some 3m strip caulk pn 08578 at your local parts store and kind of smash it down a bit before you install it. You'll end up with plenty of left over but it'll be cheaper than buying the kit from me by the time you figure shipping.
If you need a picture of the 76 AIM email me at service@Willcoxcorvette.com and I'll send you a copy. Or if you tell me the year of the car and have an assembly manual I'll tell you what page it's on if you post back.
Willcox
Thanks. It's a 73. Yes the strip caulking was what I was looking for. A little cheaper from Amazon.
Bill
Thanks. It's a 73. Yes the strip caulking was what I was looking for. A little cheaper from Amazon.
Bill
Support and go to your local parts store, they are a dying bread. It'll probably be cheaper without shipping and you can get it quick and when you need something or a favor they'll remember you....
IMHO,
Ernie
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 04-20-2019 at 06:32 PM.
Do you how or where I can send my mirror have a driver side sport mirror with remote control disassembled.? or replace the cable without having to purchase a new mirror. The cable has a small piece of metal pressed on both ends the mirror side and the remote site... I’ve already trashed one mirror. Do they make a aftermarket replacement cable? I’m running out of options please help
i want to have them chromed plated but the company needs to have the mirror apart.
Well this is a very interesting question... I think I've got an old core mirror sitting in the shop so maybe I'd best take a look at it before I respond. They do make a new mirror with the cable but if you going to chrome plate it you'd still have to take it apart. One thing that comes to my mind is that a good friend of mine bought for his own personal shop one of the painted chrome systems which would not require the mirror to be taken apart to chrome. I've seen the end results of this and it's pretty awesome so you might open yourself up to other options and see if you can find a shop that has this ability. For my friend it was a learning experience on how to use it but he doesn't do outside work, only stuff for his shop. They did a 53 Chevy business coupe resto rod and used this on several items including the rear end.
I'll take a look at the mirror I have on Monday and hopefully can offer you some advice.
Okay... I got time to look at this and the only mirrors I have here are power sport and both are destroyed. However, I believe you can pull on the glass and it should come out. The power mirrors had a motor behind them and two pop on ball studs. I believe if you tug on the glass hard enough you can gain access to the power motor. There are three screws that hold the motor in place. If the trunion breaks when you pull it out it is available. The issue is getting the wire out of the mirror, you may have to cut and splice it. If the mirror glass breaks I believe you can purchase this at your local parts house.
I have a 71 454 Coupe and I'm repairing the AC box. I need to remove the box to make the repair. In order to get the box out, do I have to first remove the heater core? Any insight would be helpfult.. TY
I have a 71 454 Coupe and I'm repairing the AC box. I need to remove the box to make the repair. In order to get the box out, do I have to first remove the heater core? Any insight would be helpfult.. TY
Here are a couple pictures and a diagram. You have to disconnect the hoses on the heater for but not remove it. Looking at the front of the box there is a nut & bolt underneath on the right side that can be reached by removing the slash shield underneath the car. If you remove the side grill too it helps access also. I do believe the 454 to a tighter access than the 350. Take photos as you go for future reference. I hope this helps.
I have a 71 454 Coupe and I'm repairing the AC box. I need to remove the box to make the repair. In order to get the box out, do I have to first remove the heater core? Any insight would be helpfult.. TY
Which side of the box are you repairing? The inner box or outer. If it's the outer box you don't need to pull the core to repair but if you remove the nuts the inner housing will be loose anyway and pulling backwards on the inner box helps to remove the outer box if it's the inner box then the core will come out with the box and the outer will need to be removed.
If you notice below, some are nuts, but some are also bolts that hold the box to the firewall.
Good luck
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 04-29-2019 at 09:11 AM.
Well, I have an 81 Corvette Coupe, 350 engine and auto trans. When the car sits for a long period of time the transmission seems to empty out onto the floor. I took it in to the trans shop and explained that it leaks large amounts of fluid when the car sits for an extended period of time. All they did was watch the trans for the day, did not see any leaks and then serviced the trans. Still leaks, is this a front seal or pump seal issue? Rear seal is good.
Caskiguy... Can't thank you enough for the direection and photos. All are very helpful! I am repairing the inner AC box. I have everyting losened up and can see a 1" to 1.5" space between the AC box and the firewall. All bolts through the engine firewall and the AC box have been removed. Something is hanging up in the middle or lower right hand side of the AC box (if you're standing on the passenger side leaning over the AC box) preventing me from removing the AC box. It is my suspsicion that the heater core pipes are the culprit. Does that make sense. If so, would I be required to remove the hearter core? I want to avoid as I would have to tear apart the glove box, center gauge cluster and all associated duct work. Thoughts?...
04-18-2019, 09:40 AM
