0Willcox Corvette

Okay.. do you know where the leak is coming from. A common issue with the AT trans is the shifter shaft seal. But, what makes this a nightmare is the fact the people try to replace this seal by driving a screw drive into it. When they do the score the shifter shaft and it just cuts the seal all over again. The solution is to purchase the seal removal tool and if the shaft is scored from someone trying to replace it... you'll need to take the pan off the car and hopefully you can dress the scores made by the PO and if not you'll need to replace the shifter shaft... I hate to say it but this is probably one of the most common leaks we see in our shop... and most are due from people not having the correct tool to pull the seal. If you wish to get a link about this tool, email me direct @ service@Willcoxcorvette.com and I'll email you a link.

Eliredandblack

Ernie
i hope that you are all mended from your running activities. With your help finding the rubber grommet, I installed a new coaxial antennae cable on my 73 convertible. It was pretty easy, except for when I had to hold the cable base through the ground plate and bezel. When I have a problem, I always turn to my favorite tool, a stick or piece of wood. After a few tries I was able to wedge the stick on the coaxial base, muffler, and then install the bezel along with a new gasket. I have noticed that the chrome top nut (that holds the antennae mast) does not have the correct diameter for the antennae mast, it seems too small. I noticed that when I removed the antennae mast, to install my hardtop that water is already getting to the base where the electrical connection is made. Would you guess the PO used the wrong Year Antenna Mast? The nut tightens ok, but doesn’t thread on the cable base very far. Also, the chrome nut had the same fitment issues with the old cable base. I know this is not a major problem, but it sorta looks funny, and I try to do things without evoking the BUBBA CLAUSE.

Take Care and be carful when your out running. I should talk, while the hard top was hanging from the electric hoist, I was looking at a schematic, not thinking, and walked into one of the ends, cut my forward. Lucky for me the vinyl lessen the blow!
Eli

0Willcox Corvette

Can you post me a picture of what you have?

E

Micha

Hi Will people told me you're the guy able to find an answer :

I'm quite more active in the LT-1 owner's thread, but I've been suggested to move up my question. There might be some NCRS judge or any well documented guy in this area, that could help me.
(Just forgive my approximate english as that's not my mother tongue, I live in France)

I've just discovered something that is not related by the 6th Edition of Judging Manual NCRS (I bought the book).

It's the last letter of my transmission stamped code. All figures are totally clear as my pictures shows (included the VIN number matching to my car) EXCEPT the last letter "K". I've zoomed the number to make it more readable in the red box.

Does anyone knows this matter enough to make an explication of the last K letter ?


Any information on this mysterious letter would be much appreciated.

caskiguy

There is a bolt/nut on the bottom right hand side which I found could only be removed from under the car with the splash shield removed. Pictures would help.

Btw, I didn't mean to interfere with Ask Willcox they have far more experience than I'll ever have. So I apologize Ernie. I missed that it was a question on your thread.

Eliredandblack

You can see where the nut only goes on the base one turn or so..

0Willcox Corvette

For me, and you might want to post this up on the NCRS site with the same question I'm sure there are people there that know more about the Muncie tranny's than I do. But it's always been my belief that if you have a Muncie with a similar character after the date, the exact meaning of this character is not known; there are suspicions but nothing proof wise to back up with facts.

Also, you might PM JohnZ from the c2 section, he's easy to find and he may have a better idea.

Sorry I'm not much help on this.

E

Micha

Thanks Will, I'll PM him.

dusty-dave

This sounds like the converter drain back check not holding real well. The ball or the plate are damaged. I'd make a cash bet the trans shop was well aware and didnt want to ffuck with it. When it leaks the transmission in effect over fills and finds any little leaks like shifter shaft or dipstick tube seal. If it leaks bad enough the converter will be half empty and the fluid will come out the vent. If you don't want to take the valve body out and lap the metering plate and replace the ***** sometimes the breather assembly out of a 4X4 with the same trans raises the vent enough to stop it marking its spot.
Dusty

dusty-dave

My 82 has no gauges or tach or buzzers, I read 3.72 volts at the back of the gauges and tach and the same back probing the supply wire but read 12.75 at the fuse and the same when probing the fuse holder clips.The ground reads good. I tried injecting 12V into the pink w black tracer at the tach connector and the gauges fired up. Short of cutting the whole harness open any suggestions on possible corrosion spots? I assume a green connection somewhere. I certainly don't want to peel and rewrap the whole harness if I can help it.
Dusty

Street Rat

On a previous question here I was having a hard time adjusting my left door glass. I had just replaced the left weatherstrip retainer. It is a GM licensed product. It is not the same as the factory piece. I put my old factory ws retainer back on. Now the window can be adjusted. It seems to be very close. Haven't water checked it yet.
Craig
Factory part is on the right.

0Willcox Corvette

Something isn't right on this installation,

Below is the factory antenna installed on my 72 which would be the same, I just took it apart a few years ago to help someone else with the installation.

0Willcox Corvette

No worries, life is good...

0Willcox Corvette

In most cases when the shifter shaft seal is leaking fluid it's from previous damage from someone without the correct tool to remove the shaft seal. People always want to stick a screw driver or pick in there and pry it out.... When this happens it scores the shaft and you have to remove the shaft and butterfly linkage from the tranny, and chuck it in a lathe to smooth the marks since putting a new seal in will only result in another leaking seal. If the scores are to large then the shaft will need to be replaced. It's just my own experience and we've had great success in stopping leaking shaft seals by doing it this way... It could be another problem but the most common is a scored shift shaft.

IMHO,

E

0Willcox Corvette

I hate to say it, but as I posted in my original post, I'll not be doing tach questions. I've published all kinds of info on my tech page at this link.... Just enter the year, and then search tach.

http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/

0Willcox Corvette

The original one is on the right? The one on the left needs a new blow out plug, it's coming apart. But... Just make darn sure that the weatherstrip retainer will sit on the pillar completely flat and not rock when the screws are tight. This is a very common issue and relevant to what I believe I addressed in my earlier post.... if the retainer rocks the weatherstrip will move and bind when the glass hits it. I hope you got it fixed, keep me posted.

Ernie

dusty-dave

If you read the whole question it's a power supply question the tach works fine if I jump power to it, I wouldn't have asked if it was covered in any tech I could find!

dusty-dave

Should the fluid be above the shifter seal when it's parked?

0Willcox Corvette

I did read the entire question....

The info to figure your problem out is listed on the tech site if you take the time to read it....
There are schematics on how to test the power, there are instructions on how to remove the cluster and the speedo tach housing... There is more than enough info there for you to figure it out.... if you take the time to read it.

Here is an example
http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/?yt=1978&s=tach

http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/?yt=1978&s=printed

http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/c...ink-1978-1982/

Ernie

Eliredandblack

Mast Nut with antennae mast showing bottom collar

Nut threads all the way down, without antenna mast and too large collar

After a couple of weeks corrosion has started on the anyway body.
Ernie
Thanks for getting back to after I forwarded the antenna mast pictures to you. I was a car show today and notice a friends 72 with the same antenna nut not threading down on bezel nut. His antenna mast looks exactly like mine. From the picture you sent me, my antenna mast is like the one on the bottom most picture, there is a large color at the bottom exactly like your picture. Also, when I remove the antenna mast the nut treads on very nicely. My guess is the diameter of the antenna mast “collar” at the bottom is to large for the Antenna Mast Nut. If the nut wasn’t chrome, I could enlarge the hole on the Mast Nut. The picture of the 69-77 Fixed Mast does NOT show a collar/sleeve like the one in the bottom most picture (The one I have). Could I have the wrong mast? The mast and collar were on the car when I bought her. If I had the mast without the collar, (your middle picture) I believe the Mast Nut would thread all the way down. Here are so more pictures.
Thanks for your input.
Eli